yxmj

Tt would bolt right up to the T/case and all brackets and linkage wold be readily available.......the tunnel of a MJ and a YJ would obviously be different....but I think it would be close enough that your fab requirements would be limited.....your shift boot would cover any trimming needed

The pic above this post....#6.....is a Yj shifter

Go YJ then.........if you have some skillz you might even save some $$$$ by fabing yourself

Get linkage, brackets and shifter off of a TJ or YJ.....the bottom end will bolt up perfect and you just have to work out some kind of "Boot"

Sorry :dunno: Links were not working for me....oh well....can't have enough info :thumbsup:

I had this cut an pasted from somwere.... Suspension & Lift: 1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift 2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift 3. S10 (P/U or Blazer) leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift (may require use of degree shims) 4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift 5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (some dispute) 6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift 7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift 8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs 9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked 10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle 11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too 12. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift) 13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack 14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ Brakes: 1. WJ brake booster 2. WJ Master Cylinder 3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer 4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts) 5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims) 6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion 7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm 8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer 9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer 10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle Axles: 1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes) 2. XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos 3. XJ C8.25 ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44) 4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package 5. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder 6. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts 7. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion, bolt in 8. Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation (use search function) Front End & Steering: 1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in 2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering 3. Durango Steering Box = beefier 4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding) 5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required) 6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock 7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required 8. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley) 9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar 10. JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer Engine/Transmission/T-case: 1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification) 2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray) 3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A (for 1991 and newer XJ's). 4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607) 5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A 6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response 7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing) 8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style) 9. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance 10. Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds 11. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core. 12. Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function) Body/Interior/Armor: 1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails. 2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in 3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+ 4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification 5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors 6. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc. 7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders! 8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+ 9. OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's) 10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's

I really like the vice.....gives you the option of putting on an impact (electric or pnematic) for those times you are using it for a press.... :thumbsup: I make quite a few myself.....but don't have a lot of pics Here is a set of dollies i made out of simple 1" copper pipe T's and a broom handle. They are your best friend when welding holes or seams in light gauge metal ( they are worth their wieght in gold when fixing floor pans).....You just use them as a backer...they conduct electricity....allow the steel weld to pool....then you just pull them away. :thumbsup:

Here is a quick pic reference for futur use.....

Yes thanks to you both....the test lights and the DMM are the first tools I reach for.....I am leaning towards the thought of a broken wire or bad ground as well......just because of the way it died.....suddenly while driving ........did not fade away or was not even intermittant....... just all at once Well enough speculation it is 2 pm here now....off work at 5......by 6 maybe 7 will have an answer I hope

Yes I already tried replacing the relay....and just jumping it with a wire.....nothing...........lucky for me I happen to have this in the shed Compleat tank with pump in it......will probebly be faster to do a quick switch.......clean out this tank first of course......i am online now trying to find out a quick bench test routine so i can be sure this one works befor I go through the trouble. :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

Thanks for all the answers.....definetly fuel related as we were able to get it to fire by spraying fuel in the intake. Changed out the pump relay still no go.....will start working my way back from there.....hoping i do not need it but already have a feul pump on the bench.... :thumbsup: If you have any quick fuel pump tests or tricks please feel free to join in the convo...............

My thoughts too.....but the boy pulled a wire and put in a plug that had lots of spark when grounded..... I am driving home now and one thing that struck me was ......fuel pump???......sending them out now to see if they can hear the pump turn on or if there is presser at the fuel rail.. . :MJ 1: .

Hello Gents, Please keep in mind the vehicle in question is 2 hours from me and I am just working on figuring it out before I get there. The patient is a 1998 XJ 4L auto has been a strong runner. My daughter drove 2 hours one way to visit us camping.....on the return trip at about the 1.5 hour mark (having noticed no problems with the jeep or any alerts on the gages) it suddenly started to lose power and was not responding to here right foot. She pulled over, shut down and was unable to start.....had it towed home were my son was able to hook up my code reader......no codes shown. By telephone this AM I can hear the motor turning over strong and they have sent me picks of the code reader (display show 0) so last night my first thought was CPS.......................but with 0 on the display I am now thinking computer? I have (strangely enough never had a computer die on a 4 liter) Any thoughts suggestions or quick testes. My first suggestion was remove the battery cable until i re-contacted them..... :dunno: . :MJ 1: .

you have pm..... back to the main topic Now that Dando's info is public......you have my curiosity peaked.....what is so special about the tailgate paint job? :hmm:

Look at my answer (4th post down) I have used this method many times on 4 liters and 2.5.....cleans it up good :thumbsup: http://comancheclub.com/topic/39604-developed-a-knock-looking-for-some-insight/ . :MJ 1: .

If it is OBD-II these are the codes associated with the speed sensor P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction P0501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Low Input P0503 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High

If it helps you out I have a couple new old stock YJ hood latches......I could send them down to you......just have them put a good quality hing in the back and one of these on eather side (hide them in the side burns).....then you can unlatch them and pop the top anytime a cat goes by.....why wait for a special occation.....I'd watch the Toms though....while he is scanning he might get the urge to mark his territory.... . :MJ 1: .

This link has the stock measurements as well as other info http://comancheclub.com/topic/11098-how-to-measure-ride-hight/

1/2 ??

Best guess to check the float.......jack up the front and back ....or park on a severe incline (front and back) and see if your gauge moves.......

A 1988 car or older?????????

Just a guess but the lights would signal......low oil pressure......no or high battery voltage......overheating.... So with a cold motor you would have....no oil pressure (light on) no power (light on)....motor under overheating (light off) ?????????????????????? . :MJ 1: .

That would be the title if you got the answer wrong..... :bowdown: I know what you mean though.... I do not like being called Mr. or Sir.......maybe because it is usually followed by "step out of the vehicle and keep your hands were I can see them......." . :MJ 1: .

I will post for you This was one of my first posts and questions on CC ......when I bought mine the trans was off and after putting everything together i had the rod left over i posted the pic and asked the location.....and was answered actually by Mr. Oshel. To answer your question I ran without it and with it.....no noticeable difference.

:yes:.......I am a 2 footed driver too I have a diverse "fleet " right now half auto half 5 speed.......for the first few blocks every time I switch from 5 speed to auto I have a nasty habit of going for the "clutch" and hitting the brake causing my passenger to luch forward......good thing we have seat belt laws or somebody would have kissed the windshield by now...