dasbulliwagen

Its best to use your original, that way you know it will work with your trans.... It won't cost much of anything to have a machine shop neutral balance yours, and surface it at the same time!

Where it says don't exceed 4000 rpm... they mean it! I had never used one before and this other guy at work mounted one in a die grinder.... you know, the 10000 rpm ones! He showed it to me and I hooked it up and grabbed the trigger.... it spun up and disintegrated into a thousand peices including some larger chunks that really could have hurt someone if they had hit them... those peices flew across the shop, bounced off the walls, and I slunk into a nice hiding spot for awhile! I have one of my own now and am in the process of doing this same thing on my sportruck stickers and wagonner donor woodgrain! Ill have pics when its all finished! NICE JOB TOO!

Mellow Mushroom.... theres one in Greensboro, NC too. GOOD STUFF!!!!

I thought the same exact thing when I saw that pile.... see if the manche will make it!!!! And send pics!!!

You don't know bad till youve gone on I 94 in metro Detroit! If youre not doing 80 plus, youre getting passed! Gotta love it!

What the aych ee double hockeysticks is 1952 Packard? :hmm: :waving: And don't do digital cammo, just looks like a crappy custom paintjob, do it like traditional cammo.

I for one can say that the 87 harness is the same as 86, as Ive recently swapped in a 86 unit into my 87 and it plugged right up.

Ive seen POR 15 at a few parts stores on the shelf, I think NAPA was one, call around and see if anybody has any, you can get it in pints and quarts too, or Eastwood sells it in their catalogs.... they have restoration tools and products... lots of good stuff, look them up. I think if I was planning on keeping it for a while, Id spend the extra and gfet the POR15.

red will allow you to cover in fewer coats, and if theres show through the red will be less noticeable.... I assume youre talking about laquer primer, but if youre using urethane primer, have it tinted as close as possible to your final color.

Ive ALWAYS loved that body style... and theyre making a comeback too, getting more and more valuable! AND... she is the original Eleanor... from the original 1973 "Gone in 60 seconds" That last chase scene is unbeleivable! They wrapped that car around a pole, and the stunt guy boke his leg when that happened, so they stopped production of the movie, 3 months later when he was better, they got right back in that car, fired it up, and finished the movie! Love it man....keep up the good work!

:agree: Had the same problem recently on my boss's comanche, the 4 way flasher and TS flasher are seperate, swap them and see if it make the TS work if so, youre all set... get a new flasher, I think theyre 2 prong. You may still have socket problems, but this way at least youll know if you can get the TS to work.

The PS mount is different because the intake manifolds are different between the renix you got the pump from and the HO youre putting it on. If youre going to swap parts, they should come from same era as the original.

Your axles are 4:10 geared already so make sure if youre gonna replace to get 4:10 or better. The front axle disco isnt really a big deal, juts lock it over in place and forget about it, not like youre gonna break it with that 4 cylinder. Good find though and welcome to the club!

if it sounds like an exhaust leak, maybe its an exhaust leak. These engines are well know for busting the rearmost and frontmost intake exhaust manifold studs, could just be leaking at the exhaust manifold gasket. Take a look and see if the studs are still in place and take a section of heater hose and see if you can narrow down where the noise is coming from. The simplest explanation is usually the correct one. Good luck!

Isnt JBHills slammed bagged MJ a RHD?

Yes thats true, you have to special order them but they are available new to anyone who wants one, we service several of them at my dealer, mostly TJ's and JK's, but I have seen one XJ with the steering like in the original post, kinda funky!

CONGRATS!!!

Isnt there a couple of torx bolts at the top of the bellhousing? Someone else should be able to chime in and tell you what size. Drain pan for when you pull out the driveshaft and oil runs out the back of the transfer case and the oil cooler lines. Shop rags and hand cleaner so you can wash your hands and clean up spills. Ace bandage for when you drop the assy on your arm as youre laying under the truck. A bottle of saline solution to rinse the dirt out of your eyes that falls in while laying under it. A roll of electrical tape so you can make nice shop style manyly black bandaids for when you smash your fingernail when your wrench lets loose of its bolt. An extra shirt for when you dump tranny fluid on yourself trying to wrestle it to the ground. Cardboard to lay on. Am I missing anyhting?

Yes 3M, don't use the adhesive glue meant for emblems, at least not on your own vehicle. The 3M emblem adhesive I used to use when doing body work was good stuff, but don't screw it up as it will eat into your paint job... part of what made it hold so well I guess! At least with the tape, if you screw it up, you can pull it off, and re do it if needed.

Ive yet to deal with the MJ's brake light switch, but from what Ive seen most are adjustable. If it is adjustable, maybe try to set it so it comes on with the slightest brake pedal movement. The brake lights have nothing to do with the amount of pressure you apply... I know some companies do it like that, like my old air colled VW's, but your truck has a switch at the brake pedal, try to adjust it and see what happens!

Ive always had good luck with Delco batteries which is what I now have in mine. But Autozones regular batteries are always rated real good. Stay away from Interstate, which is the company that makes MOPAR batteries, as they tend not to last long in high heat engine compartments. And get a battery with the highest CCA rating that will fit your vehicle, especially if youll be running a winch. Thats my 2 cents!

You have the basics, now go out to a large open area, or a place with little to no traffic and drive by yourself till you get the feel of it without making yourself look stupid. A patient person to get you going always helps too. Youll just have to get the feel of it and then youll be fine.

You should have put another option... Havent broken it yet That way I would get to see the results without throwing the survey off. I guess I could choose other, but that would mean Ive destroyed one, which I havent. I WANNA SEE THE RESULTS TOO!!!! :( :rant: :headpop: :fs1: :mad: :???: :dunno: :pcwhack: :grrrr: :fs2: :yes:

Sounds like you have a sticking caliper on the right side, jack the front end up and feel the turning resistance at each wheel. I bet the right side is much harder to turn... Ive also seen this caused by bad brake hoses to the caliper, will let pressure build up, but not bleed off, so check that too if this is your problem! Good luck, let us know what you find!

I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but if you have to ask, then theres no way you should try this mod yourself. You have to have a knowledge of body work and body structure to do something like this and keep it safe. I'm not trying to discourage you, but if you want it done right and want it nice and you don't have the experience, don't try this yourself. Youll just end up with a cherokee thats chopped up thats unfinished that you won't be able to resell for what you have in it.