kro10000

One of my buddys is in the middle of swapping an OM617 into an XJ... Unfortunately I haven't seen him in a while and don't know how far along he has gotten in the process. I know he had an adapter custom machined to mate the engine with his AX15... I was considering the swap myself into my MJ before I sold it. It isn't enough motor for the F150 though, I'm looking into putting a 4bt into it, as it is in many ways a bolt in swap into that truck. Just don't have the funds to purchase a 4bt right now (those suckers are $$$). There was also a completed OM617 swap in a 2wd MJ at one point, but they kept the Mercedes transmission that was behind it.

Full time student Full time concrete flatworker So until lately I've had ZERO time to do anything, but I'm on winter break now from school, and the weather hasn't been cooperative so I can't work. Maybe I'll stumble upon an MJ with a plow to give me something to do 8)

Since I picked up my F-150 I've been spending time over at http://www.ford-trucks.com, they've got a pretty great community. For what it's worth here's my truck: Also got the 300 (4.9) Couple things about these motors I like, the gear driven camshaft and access panel to get at the lifters. Miss the MJ but don't miss fixing it all the time :peek:, then again since I've picked up the Ford I've spent quite a lot of time wrenching. I'm not sure what else there is to do... I guess some things never change :wrench: Anyway good luck with the MJ and may the Ford gods look kindly upon you sir!

Yup I did, but every time I tried to flash a new rom it failed. So I'm just happy with the juice defender app and stickin it to the man.

:agree:

As far as I know, the D44 was never put behind a 2.5. All were D35s regardless of transmission. As far as the OEM was concerned, there wasn't any reason to have anything bigger behind the four cyly.

Well really the whole reason there has to be free play is to keep the throwout bearing off of the release diaphragm when not in use. Like most things there are exceptions though, as in many cable operated clutch setups there is a "constant contact" throw out bearing, necessitated by an auto-adjusting clutch pedal. In many vehicles with mechanical linkage it is common to have a throwout bearing die because of incorrect pedal free play. Just to clarify Sometimes they rust between the nut and the tube and seize together, so that when you loosen the nut the tube twists with it and tears. Not much you can do at that point except fix it (good excuse to get a double flaring tool :cheers: ) A propane torch works magic with these, found that out when I redid the brakes on the Mustang, after 30+ years of it all being together, it didn't like the idea of being separated.

http://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/2470102331.html Only have my phone right now so someone should post the page here

And I DIDN'T buy it! :fs2: Pictures of it made it look pretty clean, and the owner said there was NO rust underneath. However I found the paint to be beaten up, as well as several sizable dents on the exterior. And underneath the floor pans were pretty gone. :fs1: Also the passengers side hinges were separating and the drivers were cracked. It had all the goodies, full skid package, "COMANCHE CHIEF" stripes and lettering, D44, shortbed, had a rebuilt trans (unfortunately BA/10), etc. But I definitely couldn't fork over $1700 for it. I offered the guy $1100, he wouldn't haggle any more (talked him down from $2000 over the phone). Anyway I was very excited to go look at this truck today, but now I'm just :(

Well I don't know off hand what RPM the autos run on the highway so I can't say that for sure. But, I'll try to explain this better, there's a lockup clutch on the torque converter that gives you near zero slip while your're on the highway. That's why you will notice a 5th rpm drop when accelerating. To prevent damage to the clutch it is only supposed to be utilized while you are cruising, as rapid accel/decel would place a lot of load onto the clutch. So when you accelerate on the highway the clutch disengages or when you brake it will disengage. And it uses the brake pedal switch to know to disengage when you are braking. I'm not entirely familiar with the signals to the TCU from the brake pedal switch, but it would make sense to have a failsafe to keep the clutch from engaging if there is no signal from the pedal switch. Hopefully there is someone here with a little more insight into the subject, but 2k on the highway does seem a bit high. With a stickshift I was running about 1400 Yes I would definitely check the switch, I cannot think of any other explanation that would be directly caused by the master/booster swap.

Pretty sure the wagoneer is going to be a 3 row GC, seeing as the new durango and gc have the same platform, and the durango has 3 rows, sounds simple enough.

The lockup clutch isn't engaging. It uses the brake switch to tell it to disconnect when you're braking.

I thought it was the 00-01 XJ with the 0331 head issues? Ah it looks like the later 99s had the 0331, id check and be sure anyway.

FWIW I would ditch that '99 0331 head and run an earlier 0680(?) HO head. 99 was the year of cracking issues with the 0331 and the earlier head is better for performance anyway.

Didn't think you came across rude at all :cheers: I could still be wrong again as the tbi setup is different.