AmJay

Nice kind of a Moto Guzzi style engine. They also came in a 650CC version that you could actually get a turbo charger on. There were several different models CX500, GL500, CX650, GL650 and sometimes called a Silverwing. Around here they are generally in the $1000 dollar range. If you can get a title it would be worth fixing for the price you paid. I'm guessing the tank and carbs will also need some attention.

It isn't necessary to remove the timing cover to replace the balancer or the seal. New harmonic balancers are available at NAPA and probably other parts stores. When you remove the balancer the bolt has 80fp of torque. If you have an automatic you may need to wedge a screwdriver through one of the spokes of the balancer to keep the engine from spinning. A 2" water pipe reducer fitting and the original bolt and washer from the harmonic balancer make an inexpensive installer for the bearing. you can also use a longer bolt available at any hardware to start the balancer onto the crankshaft until you can use the original bolt. You will need a puller to remove the balancer. Most parts stores will rent the puller when you buy the balancer. I found I can change the balancer and seal without removing the radiator. The serpentine belt tensioner ia by the power steering pump and you may need to remove the airbox to get to the bolt. Mac...

Is that a real 4x4 eliminator? All I see is the undercoating flaked off and surface rust on the frame. I never welded in my life or did much body work but managed to replace the floor pans on my MJ. It's not like it has to look beautiful. It gets covered up. If I can do it anyone can. Up here in the north that looks beautiful.

A lot of people will flag things on craigslist to prevent other people from seeing the ad. It only take one flagger and a few of his friends to get an ad removed. Sounds like a really good deal, I bet it got flagged. The ad may still be in your browser history. Mac...

The only place I've seen that sells the Heater Control Valve is Team Cherokee. So you know that's expensive...

Is it 4wd? Is the front diff stuck in 4wd? I

I'm guessing you may have put the horn spring plate in upside down. It may have gotten flattened out when you put the lock plate in upside down. I stole this picture from someone. It's from a Chevy Nova but it's the metal spring in the center. If it got flattened out it could cause your problem. They sell the spring plate at NAPA. When you push your horn button the spring compresses and touches the steering column and supplies the ground for the horn. You can test it by touching a screw driver to it and the steering column. If the horn works it's probably a bad spring. You didn't say what steering wheel you have. This is for a Sport wheel.

I use the GPS on my cell phone from time to time and the hands free too. I bought a cheap e--bay windshield suction cup mount, but it fell off all the time. I also couldn't get the right angle on the holder. I was either looking at a washed out screen or the glare off the screen made it hard to see. Anyway I did some googling for a better mount and after wrestling with the price, I decided to buy it. Here's the web site for ProClip. The result almost looks like a factory installed clip. I am very pleased with how it turned out. I think it's something I could have made out of some sheet metal, but here it is.. You have to buy 2 parts. The holder for your cell phone and the mount for your car. They didn't list Comanche's but we all know the Cherokee is the same. The clip I got when I selected my cell phone is a universal clip. It works good for my cell phone but if your car charger plugs in on side near the bottom like my RAZR phone the clip will be in the way. Although this cost around $70.00 (10% discount at the time) I like it and if I change cell phones I only have to buy the clip or if I change cars I only need the mount. I also like that I didn't have to drill holes in the dash. Mac...

Don't know what year/engine your MJ is, but it could be a bad heater control valve or the vacuum connecting to it. I was also able to disconnect the heater hoses to the heater core and run a garden hose to it and flush a lot of junk out of the heater core. Using the garden hose you will also be able to tell if your core is plugged. If you can run water through it it isn't a bad heater core.

It sucks. And another thing all these surveillance cameras along the expressway and now just about every intersection on city streets. I'm tired of big brother watching me. The other day I was riding my motorcycle and got some weird pleasure flipping off every one I passed. All 30+ of them that I saw. It's just plain creepy. Also what are these devices with little antennas and a solar panel going into a box and no camera? WIFI? My computer doesn't think so. Maybe WIFI at a special frequency that only certain people can use?

You could drill holes on either side of the crack and lag bolt a steel plate across the crack and use JB weld.. TEMPORARILY.

I bought the flooring here. I suppose water could get trapped under the flooring. The only holes on the bottom are where the seat bolts come up through the flooring and that's pretty much sealed by the seats being bolted down. I have bed liner on my CJ7 it works pretty good. Anything is probably better then carpeting on the floor. My main concern is getting in with my snow, slush and salt covered boots in the winter. That's what I think ruined the floors in the first place.

LOL. I'm hoping mine will hold all the water coming through the sun roof, but incase it doesn't the vinyl floor will.

Now the fun part, putting it all back together... I decided to try vinyl flooring. It's formed for the Comanche. It's very thick (About an 1/8") and very heavy. It's long on both sides and the back and doesn't have any holes cut out for the shifter, seat bolts, etc... The center console has gaps between the flooring and the console. I think if I apply heat I can get some of the wrinkles out of the vinyl if it acts like shrink wrap tubing, otherwise I'll just live with it. When I started this I said if I liked welding I would buy a welder with the money I saved by not taking this to a body shop. I imagine I have about 20 or 30 hours in this and that would probably be a couple thousand at a body shop. The friend I borrowed the welder from needed it back and so I bought the welder before I started. I looked at Lincoln, Miller, Hobart and ended up getting an HTP 130. I added gas and did all the welding with .024 wire. It's a nice welder in the hands of a crappy weldor. I'm scrathing this one off my Comanche todo list.

I painted everything with etching primer and then some spray on truck bed paint. The underside received the same treatment with seam sealer. The seam sealer came in a caulking tube and went on great. In the next picture you can see the brace that runs from the front to the back was completely gone. After a lot of hammering I was able to form the floor pan over the rusted off stub. I spot welded the floor pan to the top of the frame. It doesn't show up too good in the picture because I ground off most of the weld. It's welded about every inch. While cutting out the rusted floor I managed to cut through the e-brake cable. I was pretty rusted too, so it was a good time to replace it.