AmJay

Nice kind of a Moto Guzzi style engine. They also came in a 650CC version that you could actually get a turbo charger on. There were several different models CX500, GL500, CX650, GL650 and sometimes called a Silverwing. Around here they are generally in the $1000 dollar range. If you can get a title it would be worth fixing for the price you paid. I'm guessing the tank and carbs will also need some attention.

It isn't necessary to remove the timing cover to replace the balancer or the seal. New harmonic balancers are available at NAPA and probably other parts stores. When you remove the balancer the bolt has 80fp of torque. If you have an automatic you may need to wedge a screwdriver through one of the spokes of the balancer to keep the engine from spinning. A 2" water pipe reducer fitting and the original bolt and washer from the harmonic balancer make an inexpensive installer for the bearing. you can also use a longer bolt available at any hardware to start the balancer onto the crankshaft until you can use the original bolt. You will need a puller to remove the balancer. Most parts stores will rent the puller when you buy the balancer. I found I can change the balancer and seal without removing the radiator. The serpentine belt tensioner ia by the power steering pump and you may need to remove the airbox to get to the bolt. Mac...

Is that a real 4x4 eliminator? All I see is the undercoating flaked off and surface rust on the frame. I never welded in my life or did much body work but managed to replace the floor pans on my MJ. It's not like it has to look beautiful. It gets covered up. If I can do it anyone can. Up here in the north that looks beautiful.

A lot of people will flag things on craigslist to prevent other people from seeing the ad. It only take one flagger and a few of his friends to get an ad removed. Sounds like a really good deal, I bet it got flagged. The ad may still be in your browser history. Mac...

The only place I've seen that sells the Heater Control Valve is Team Cherokee. So you know that's expensive...

Is it 4wd? Is the front diff stuck in 4wd? I

I'm guessing you may have put the horn spring plate in upside down. It may have gotten flattened out when you put the lock plate in upside down. I stole this picture from someone. It's from a Chevy Nova but it's the metal spring in the center. If it got flattened out it could cause your problem. They sell the spring plate at NAPA. When you push your horn button the spring compresses and touches the steering column and supplies the ground for the horn. You can test it by touching a screw driver to it and the steering column. If the horn works it's probably a bad spring. You didn't say what steering wheel you have. This is for a Sport wheel.

I use the GPS on my cell phone from time to time and the hands free too. I bought a cheap e--bay windshield suction cup mount, but it fell off all the time. I also couldn't get the right angle on the holder. I was either looking at a washed out screen or the glare off the screen made it hard to see. Anyway I did some googling for a better mount and after wrestling with the price, I decided to buy it. Here's the web site for ProClip. The result almost looks like a factory installed clip. I am very pleased with how it turned out. I think it's something I could have made out of some sheet metal, but here it is.. You have to buy 2 parts. The holder for your cell phone and the mount for your car. They didn't list Comanche's but we all know the Cherokee is the same. The clip I got when I selected my cell phone is a universal clip. It works good for my cell phone but if your car charger plugs in on side near the bottom like my RAZR phone the clip will be in the way. Although this cost around $70.00 (10% discount at the time) I like it and if I change cell phones I only have to buy the clip or if I change cars I only need the mount. I also like that I didn't have to drill holes in the dash. Mac...

Don't know what year/engine your MJ is, but it could be a bad heater control valve or the vacuum connecting to it. I was also able to disconnect the heater hoses to the heater core and run a garden hose to it and flush a lot of junk out of the heater core. Using the garden hose you will also be able to tell if your core is plugged. If you can run water through it it isn't a bad heater core.

It sucks. And another thing all these surveillance cameras along the expressway and now just about every intersection on city streets. I'm tired of big brother watching me. The other day I was riding my motorcycle and got some weird pleasure flipping off every one I passed. All 30+ of them that I saw. It's just plain creepy. Also what are these devices with little antennas and a solar panel going into a box and no camera? WIFI? My computer doesn't think so. Maybe WIFI at a special frequency that only certain people can use?

You could drill holes on either side of the crack and lag bolt a steel plate across the crack and use JB weld.. TEMPORARILY.

I bought the flooring here. I suppose water could get trapped under the flooring. The only holes on the bottom are where the seat bolts come up through the flooring and that's pretty much sealed by the seats being bolted down. I have bed liner on my CJ7 it works pretty good. Anything is probably better then carpeting on the floor. My main concern is getting in with my snow, slush and salt covered boots in the winter. That's what I think ruined the floors in the first place.

LOL. I'm hoping mine will hold all the water coming through the sun roof, but incase it doesn't the vinyl floor will.

Now the fun part, putting it all back together... I decided to try vinyl flooring. It's formed for the Comanche. It's very thick (About an 1/8") and very heavy. It's long on both sides and the back and doesn't have any holes cut out for the shifter, seat bolts, etc... The center console has gaps between the flooring and the console. I think if I apply heat I can get some of the wrinkles out of the vinyl if it acts like shrink wrap tubing, otherwise I'll just live with it. When I started this I said if I liked welding I would buy a welder with the money I saved by not taking this to a body shop. I imagine I have about 20 or 30 hours in this and that would probably be a couple thousand at a body shop. The friend I borrowed the welder from needed it back and so I bought the welder before I started. I looked at Lincoln, Miller, Hobart and ended up getting an HTP 130. I added gas and did all the welding with .024 wire. It's a nice welder in the hands of a crappy weldor. I'm scrathing this one off my Comanche todo list.

I painted everything with etching primer and then some spray on truck bed paint. The underside received the same treatment with seam sealer. The seam sealer came in a caulking tube and went on great. In the next picture you can see the brace that runs from the front to the back was completely gone. After a lot of hammering I was able to form the floor pan over the rusted off stub. I spot welded the floor pan to the top of the frame. It doesn't show up too good in the picture because I ground off most of the weld. It's welded about every inch. While cutting out the rusted floor I managed to cut through the e-brake cable. I was pretty rusted too, so it was a good time to replace it.

I started replacing my floor pans at the end of May and just finished them yesterday. Here are some shots. Keep in mind this is the first time I ever welded and I realize the welds aren't very good. I burned a lot of holes, forgot to turn on the gas once and had a hard time at all the weird angles I had to weld at. Still, I'm pretty confident the welds will hold up and since everything is covered, looks aren't too important. here's some pics. This is the passenger side front and rear. I don't know why, but I didn't take any of the drivers side until after I seam sealed and painted it. I bought replacement floor pans for the front driver's side because they were completely gone. I must have ordered the rear floor pans by mistake because that's what they sent me. I reordered them and got the right one. I decided to keep the wrong ones and used the metal to patch the passenger side and the rear driver's side.

Me, If I knew it probably just needed bled, I'd of probably told them that before I bought it. Of course many, many years ago I went to an auction where they were selling off old telephone company army green econoline vans and swapped a couple of spark plug wires around so I got it real cheap at auction. I was the only bidder when it sputtered up to be sold. Think I should call them up and tell them? LOL.

What would you want for the roll bar? Fred Trost country isn't that far of a drive.

Don't know if you got the Honda 350 or not. One thing to check is the selenium rectifier. That's the reddish orange thing with the cooling fins behind the battery box. These get really hot which is why they have the big fins. Selenium has a shelf life of about 20 years so even a NOS one is probably past it's prime by many years.. If you have a good nose you can sniff around the rectifier and if it has a garlic or rotten onion smell it's probably what's going bad and causing the engine to stall when it gets warmed up. There is a guy on e-bay usually selling non-selenium replacement rectifers.

That sounds like a different problem. The ignition switch has a spring in it that moves the key from start to run when you release the key. If that part seems to be ok, I'd look for something else. You can adjust it too far but that usually only affects the extreme travel of the switch. You can't turn the key to Start the engine or you can't turn the key to accessories or you can't turn it off.

I lot of people think the switch is by the key. The key just moves a rod up and down on the column. You may be able to feel this if you put your hand on the top of the column while turning the key. The 2 bolts that hold the ignition switch to the top of the column also adjust the switch. The plate the switch is attached to has elongated holes and when you loosen the 2 bolts (don't remove them or you'll have to do a lot more work) the switch will move up and down on the column about 1/2 an inch. It's definately possible the switch has worked loose. I can show you some pictures, tomorrow. However, I worked on a jeep once that wouldn't shut off and someone had done some re-wiring and the alternator was feeding the ignition so even when they shut the Jeep off the alternator voltage was keeping it running.

The ignition switch is mounted with 2 bolts on the steering column. The ignition switch can be slid up or down by loosing those 2 bolts. That is how you adjust it. With the key in the off position and the 2 bolts loosened slightly, move the switch up or down (don't remember which) until the engine shuts off. Then tighten the bolts. Test it to make sure all the key functions work (on, off, accessories) and adjust again if needed. The switch is located on the top of the steering column down by the brake pedal. I think the 2 bolts will be slightly to the left. I'm not at home right now or I could do better.

With the part from NAPA and the Grant horn kit you should have everything you need.

I bought one for mine at NAPA it was listed as 74.00 for the 6 foot bed and 46.00 for the 7 foot bed. Go figure... Bitched at the counter guy and he let me have it for 59.00 Mac...

Recieved and e-mail from a member asking what holds the wire with the brass rivet in the turnsignal cancelling cam. Since it may be something someone else needs, I thought I'd answer it here. It's that little black plastic thing... And it's available at NAPA. HERE Part no BK 7352822 The kit includes the spring, plunger and keeper.. Throw away the plunger and use your wire with the brass rivet.