AmJay

Here is what a separated pulley might look like. see the inner part with the spokes is 1/4 inch deeper then the outer part with the pulley.

The fan pulley doesn't take any washers and on mine it can't cut into the timing cover because it is to the right of the cover. Did you mean the belt was cutting into the timing cover? There isn't any in or out adjustment on any of the pulleys. They all bolt or are pressed down tight. I agree with Harper, you need to take a look at your harmonic balancer (crank pulley). There isn't any bearings in the harmonic balancer it just bolts tight to the crankshaft. Look at the balancer. It has an inner ring that goes around the crank and has a bolt on the end. It has an outer ring that has the pulley on it. These are separated by rubber. The inner ring should be flush with the outer ring. It it isn't your balancer has separated and is out of alignment with the other pulleys. Usually when it separates the belt will ride out of the grooves in the pulley and rest on the back which will cause it to rub against the timing cover and shred belts. If the harmonic balancer is ok, then one of the other grooved pulleys is out of alignment. Since all the pulleys bolt or are pressed down tight it may be a bent attachment (power steering, air compressor, alternator, fan). The water pump and idler pulleys ride on the back side of the belt and alignment isn't as critical and shouldn't cause a problem unless a bearing is bad or the pulley is bent. On mine someone had replaced the power steering pump with a junk yard one and it wasn't made for my engine. The pulley sat back a 1/4 inch further. A trip to NAPA for the right pulley fixed the problem, but not before it took out the harmonic balancer. As WahooSteeler said, tighten your belt. I'm guessing you already did this though. I can include lots of pictures if you want.

My '89 Dakota sat for a year and the pads were rust welded to the rotors so hard that I had to put it in 4wd to move it. Never had the calipers seize. Seems kind of odd after you drove it as far as you did without a problem.

Is it this piece? Unfortunately that is the passenger side. I don't have the drivers side one. I was bent beyond use. Mac...

We have those too. I like to call them platitude boards. Example: Click it ot ticket. when snow falls so should your speed. over the limit under arrest. drive right pass left...it's the law. construction workers give them a break. (Do they me broken leg, arm?) move over or stop for emergency vehicles. Whenever there is something meaningfull to say, like "stalled vehicle in right lane". You're already in the traffic jam. Millions of wasted dollars for these in my opinion. Mac...

That's what I'm gonna do too. Gives me a chance to learn how to paint and weld on an area that doesn't show how much of a rookie I am when it comes to body work.

Around here they clear cut for habitat improvement. The deer/rabbits browse on the tree tops. Within a year there will be lots of shoots for the wildlife to browse on. It also makes it almost impossible to hunt, which I guess is also habitat improvement. I just got done having some selective cutting done which makes it good for the hunter... Mac...

Happy Birthday Jim. I'm just shy of 60 and feeling pretty good about that. Longevity doesn't run in my family. My Dad used to say we're built cheap. Mac...

No. As I posted (with sizes), square structural tubing is sold by OUTSIDE dimension and then wall thickness. The outside dimensions are 2", 2-1/4", and 2-1/2". They used 2-1/2" nominal tubing with either a 3/16" or 1/8" wall, resulting in an inside dimension that won't provide a tight fit with either 2" or 2-1/4" tubing. However, my guess would be that after this little dustup they may start investigating alternate sources. If their supplier convinced them that standard 2-1/2" x 1/4" structural tubing can't be bought because some company has a patent on it ... I have a bridge for sale that they might be interested in buying. I was thinking there may be metric square tubing that would be larger. Something like the 60x60x5.00 metric square tubing or 55x55x5.0. Not sure what the exact inside measurement of the receiver is?

Although a paint job might be less then $5000. If you want them to do the rust repairs and all the prep the price could be up there. I googled Comanche floor pans and got several hits. Seem to be in the $50.00 range (per side). If the floor pans aren't totally rotted you could just patch the rusted areas instead of replacing the whole floor. I'm getting ready to do the complete exhaust on mine and it seems like every time I climb under there I find something else to do. My advice... Don't go down there... :no: Mac...

Yes, that is correct. The Euramtec lights work in all positions.

Is it possible to buy square tubing that fits the JCR receiver and just attach a ball? Too bad they decide to take the low road and discontinure the bumper. Mac...

Which Tirfor are you getting? I had a 2000 lb one quite a while ago but sold it. It worked ok, but it was heavy about 40 lbs with the cable. Mac...

Any place that does truck graphics/signs should be able to make them for you. Just take a picture with you.

I'm just getting ready to order a complete exhaust (exhaust from manifold to Cat, Cat, muffler and tail pipe. I have a flowmaster 40 and the cat has been cut out. I really think it sounds ricey especially at low speeds in residential areas. Mac...

I just ended up putting the Canyons on my XJ. I thought about getting spacers but the canyons offset further out of the wheel well, almost to the lip of the flares and didn't want them out any further. The Canyons look pretty good on the XJ too. Mac...

Someone gave me this bit of advice so I'm passing it on to you. You should also change the front seal as long as you have the balancer off. I'm not sure what you mean is turning? You mean the engine is turning as you loosen the balancer bolt? Good luck, mine was a real pain to get off and on. It's pretty cramped under there. Mac...

I bought a set of used Canyon wheels and Toyo tires for my Comanche. Anyone running Canyon wheels? Did you have to use spacers? I can't get the center caps on the front because of the grease cup or even without the grease cup. Mine is 2WD.

Nice.. I was just feel'n good about scoring 4 Canyon wheels with fairly nice Toyo's for $200. But, I'd probably trade ya...

See some dents, but looks rust free. Bed liner too. Wish it was closer. Pickup only. Here

The ignition switch is on the steering column near the firewall.

One more thing... Don't forget to send your co-worker the bill. Mac...

This dealership sells mainly late model cars. I guess when he's only asking $2000 they aren't worthy of a picture. It was too dark for my Cell phone, but I tried.

Was working in the Greenville area last night and spotted this Comanche at a local Dealer.. HERE It's looks Gold, but he's calling it tan. It has a ton of miles and the usual Michigan rust above the rear wheelwells. It must have been a top of the line Comanche when it rolled off the assembly line. It has a Chrome Grill, bumper and brush guard, couldn't see the rear bumper it was dark and muddy. Has bucket seats, but had seat covers, so I don't know their condition. Looks like pretty good tires and about a 3" lift. Seems a little pricey for as many miles and the amount of rust(mostly on box, cab wasn't as bad as some I've seen). Mac...

I'm sort of wondering if the rear flares are going to be worth big money? They're unique to the Comanche aren't they?