dasbulliwagen

I hope youre fixed because I just cringe every time you say youre gonna crush it. Please be kind!

There are a few comapnies that make headers for the 2.5. I think that if you get a header you should also get a cam, and gut the cat conv., and install a high flow muffler. Upping the exhaust pipe diameter I don't think is necessary in this case, as the 4.0 used the same 2 1/4" exhaust. Add to all that a throttle body spacer, remove the engine fan and install an electric, and put in a cold air intake and youll be all set! Thats my plan for when I have to rebuild my engine... if ever! The cam will be the hardest thing to come across. Ive only found one place that lists them http://www.amotion.com but their website says they will be closed till .... just rechecked... says re open April 2011!!! sheeesh!! I guess Ill need to do some more research to find someone else... thier catalog isnt even up anymore! BASTARDS! I know clifford performance lists a header, and I recently saw a couple others, but can't remember who. They must really like them thought because they were expensive! Let us know what youre gonna do, and good luck! Is the 91 port injection or TBI???? If port injected you could get a 4.0 throttle body and a spacer, though theres specualtion on the use of a spacer with a port injection setup.... may or may not help performance.

I don't have experience with that tire, but Kumho makes a quality product, and if I remember right thats a good looking tire.... http://www.tirerack.com you can read customer reviews on these, I checked and they seem to get pretty good reviews, but it would be best if you read them yourself to make a better decision. ...And I run BFG All Terrains, but mostly just because I got them for free! Check out the Yokohama Geolanders too, they are a great tire for the money!

That stripe is for the 1988 olympic edition, it kinda fades from front to rear. The olympic badges are probably just gone from it.

Was working on a WJ and noticed the rear sway bar, and thought it would be an easy mod to put on the MJ, The bar bolted to the axle housing using perches, but it looks like it could be mounted with some U-bolts, and the upper link mounts bolt to the underside of the frame.... and like I said earlier, the skinnyness of the bar makes it look like it won't do much, but I guess it would have some sort of effect....anything would help. If I ever get to a PNP maybe Ill look at grabbing one... the one I saw looked like it was on a 35, but I don't remember if the 35 was offered under the WJ or not.

Also know as grinding the valves, or renewing the mating surfaces between the valves and the valve seats... seats will also have to be ground. The "grind" is done at specific angles to allow proper seating and sealing... if youre doing this you should also have the head and block checked for warpage, and if any warpage exists, you will need to have either the head and or block surfaced or machined to remove the warpage and create a completely flat surface for the head and block to seal to each other with a new head gasket. Good Luck! Oh! Why do you beleive that you need new lifters? Are they ticking? Good luck!

A while back, I asked at a junkyard if they had them and they found them and the brackets for about the same price as listed here, it was just too rich for my blood at the time... and still... and I really don't like the look of them anyways, but it really shouldnt be that hard to find new ones. It is a junkyard but they also sell aftermarket new parts, so just call around, or call a body shop and ask them who their suppliers are and if you can get what you need.

PI? Is that like Magnum PI? :hmm: Just wondering!

Should take more than 1 quart, but less than 2, so get 2! What axle is it, where is it leaking from? Just curious.

The ony way I could see putting in CV joints is if thats all I had and I knew it would get me fixed and going again. And I think only the ZJ CV's will work, not the WJ's, so if you do end up taking them, make sure theyre from a ZJ.

I remember a while back someone talking about this and that there was an aftermarket rear sway bar available, but only for longbeds. I'm not sure with our trucks that there is much need for them unless you are going to lower one and expect it to handle well on an autocross course... like the scca trucks so many have pictures of saved in our hardrives. And most vehicle Ive seen with rear swaybars, the bars are so small, I don't see how they do much to help.

I think I heard that starting 2012 all new vehicles will be required to have stability control, which means ALL new vehicles will also have ABS... one more system we really don't need to pay for, and one more thing that the govt is trying to do for our own good. The problem there being that stupid people are no longer dying and natural selection is getting all screwed up!

I think you need to adjust your track bar....lokks a little off to one side in the front! :nuts: NICE WORK! :thumbsup:

:agree: That thing was effing sweet!

is the small wire to the starter solenoid in place? Maybe thats why you couldnt start, if thats the starter wire, but I don't know. That would explain why it kept running but won't turn over to restart. I would start there and maybe someone else could give you the rest> Good luck!

Sweet! I could watch stuff like that all day! Astrophysics is soo cool. Just shows how small some peoples minds can be when it comes to the bigger picture. In the grand scheme of things we as humans mean absolutely nothing, and to think that with all THAT out there, that we are the only ones here is just absurd. Newton, Einstein, Sagan, Hawking... they have it more right than any of us know or can comprehend.

1.3 L approx 200 HP, and shnitty gas milage and little low end torque..... even if it would go in, I don't think it would be a good wheelin engine... those engines LOVE to rev, and revving is not what wheeling is about. Power to weight would be great though... but all at high rpm.

He said his Cruise control also didnt work, so I assume some kind of speed sensor.

WOW :thumbsup:

Going to have to contest with ya here... I have ran across a couple of Dakota's with the manual, and the 4.7L. Rob L. :smart: The Daks are sooo big now, I pretty much consider them to be a full sized truck. I thought about that after I posted, but didnt change it.

Good advice... Take it. When the GF was looking for an economic car, she finally decided on a Toyota Corolla. I have a friend who is a journeyman at the Toyota dealer, and I worked on them in tech school. We all has the same take. Thing will be a tank, and ultra reliable. It will rust out before it dies. I told her not to buy into any of that warranty crap after the remainder of the factory warranty goes up. She didn;t listen. Good thing she didn't, because a month later the PCM had an internal error, and went kaput. $1800 PCM. She got the biggest bestest warranty, so the tow, the fix and the happy Corolla didn't cost her a dime. (Except the monthly warranty cost :roll: ) Rob L. :D Shouldnt the PCM have been covered by what is called Extended Federal Emissions? I think it goes 8 years, 80,000miles, also covers the cat converter. Required by the federal govt to cover that stuff longer.

The 5.0 was offered in Ford pickups and Broncos also, so there should be plenty of manual trans with transfer cases available to bolt up to the 302. Youd just have to build a crossmember to support it all in addition to building the engine mounts, but I don't think it would be a big deal if youre going to do all that fab anyways And the Eco boost Ford engine would be way more trouble than its worth to put in an MJ. That engine runs direct injection, which means that fuel pressure at the injectors is greater than 2000, yes two thousand PSI. Enough to cut your finger off if you pointed one at yourself! All the electronics that go with that engine are what would make it a bad swap candidate. It would be cheaper right now too to find and swap in a Liberty Diesel, and thats still friggin expensive! I think the 302 would be cool though. A guy I work with is just finishing putting one in a ranger pickup. I know their engine bay can't be any bigger than ours! The 4.7 v8 youd have a much harder time finding a manual for. Youd have to look at Full size dodge pickups for a donor as they were the only models that offered a manual behind the 4.7, though the electronics for a 4.7 may be slightly easier to swap over from a grand but you may have problems with that too as the PCM was often also the TCM for the auto trans, so there may be running issues if you don't keep an auto.... Lots of questions!!! Lots of work! Good luck!

86 was really the only year for the V belts so theres not a lot of experience with them around, and the 4.0 was never offered with that style, so thats probably why there were no quick responses.

Sounds like it might be a rental return with that many miles.... PM me the VIN and Ill look it up for you through Chrysler to find out for ya.

Maybe this has been on here before but I can't remember. This is a youtube like to crash test pics from 1986 don't LOOK IF YOURE SQUEEMISH! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30iAyJR7rVk