dasbulliwagen

Ive yet to deal with the MJ's brake light switch, but from what Ive seen most are adjustable. If it is adjustable, maybe try to set it so it comes on with the slightest brake pedal movement. The brake lights have nothing to do with the amount of pressure you apply... I know some companies do it like that, like my old air colled VW's, but your truck has a switch at the brake pedal, try to adjust it and see what happens!

Ive always had good luck with Delco batteries which is what I now have in mine. But Autozones regular batteries are always rated real good. Stay away from Interstate, which is the company that makes MOPAR batteries, as they tend not to last long in high heat engine compartments. And get a battery with the highest CCA rating that will fit your vehicle, especially if youll be running a winch. Thats my 2 cents!

You have the basics, now go out to a large open area, or a place with little to no traffic and drive by yourself till you get the feel of it without making yourself look stupid. A patient person to get you going always helps too. Youll just have to get the feel of it and then youll be fine.

You should have put another option... Havent broken it yet That way I would get to see the results without throwing the survey off. I guess I could choose other, but that would mean Ive destroyed one, which I havent. I WANNA SEE THE RESULTS TOO!!!! :( :rant: :headpop: :fs1: :mad: :???: :dunno: :pcwhack: :grrrr: :fs2: :yes:

Sounds like you have a sticking caliper on the right side, jack the front end up and feel the turning resistance at each wheel. I bet the right side is much harder to turn... Ive also seen this caused by bad brake hoses to the caliper, will let pressure build up, but not bleed off, so check that too if this is your problem! Good luck, let us know what you find!

I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but if you have to ask, then theres no way you should try this mod yourself. You have to have a knowledge of body work and body structure to do something like this and keep it safe. I'm not trying to discourage you, but if you want it done right and want it nice and you don't have the experience, don't try this yourself. Youll just end up with a cherokee thats chopped up thats unfinished that you won't be able to resell for what you have in it.

I hope youre fixed because I just cringe every time you say youre gonna crush it. Please be kind!

There are a few comapnies that make headers for the 2.5. I think that if you get a header you should also get a cam, and gut the cat conv., and install a high flow muffler. Upping the exhaust pipe diameter I don't think is necessary in this case, as the 4.0 used the same 2 1/4" exhaust. Add to all that a throttle body spacer, remove the engine fan and install an electric, and put in a cold air intake and youll be all set! Thats my plan for when I have to rebuild my engine... if ever! The cam will be the hardest thing to come across. Ive only found one place that lists them http://www.amotion.com but their website says they will be closed till .... just rechecked... says re open April 2011!!! sheeesh!! I guess Ill need to do some more research to find someone else... thier catalog isnt even up anymore! BASTARDS! I know clifford performance lists a header, and I recently saw a couple others, but can't remember who. They must really like them thought because they were expensive! Let us know what youre gonna do, and good luck! Is the 91 port injection or TBI???? If port injected you could get a 4.0 throttle body and a spacer, though theres specualtion on the use of a spacer with a port injection setup.... may or may not help performance.

I don't have experience with that tire, but Kumho makes a quality product, and if I remember right thats a good looking tire.... http://www.tirerack.com you can read customer reviews on these, I checked and they seem to get pretty good reviews, but it would be best if you read them yourself to make a better decision. ...And I run BFG All Terrains, but mostly just because I got them for free! Check out the Yokohama Geolanders too, they are a great tire for the money!

That stripe is for the 1988 olympic edition, it kinda fades from front to rear. The olympic badges are probably just gone from it.

Was working on a WJ and noticed the rear sway bar, and thought it would be an easy mod to put on the MJ, The bar bolted to the axle housing using perches, but it looks like it could be mounted with some U-bolts, and the upper link mounts bolt to the underside of the frame.... and like I said earlier, the skinnyness of the bar makes it look like it won't do much, but I guess it would have some sort of effect....anything would help. If I ever get to a PNP maybe Ill look at grabbing one... the one I saw looked like it was on a 35, but I don't remember if the 35 was offered under the WJ or not.

Also know as grinding the valves, or renewing the mating surfaces between the valves and the valve seats... seats will also have to be ground. The "grind" is done at specific angles to allow proper seating and sealing... if youre doing this you should also have the head and block checked for warpage, and if any warpage exists, you will need to have either the head and or block surfaced or machined to remove the warpage and create a completely flat surface for the head and block to seal to each other with a new head gasket. Good Luck! Oh! Why do you beleive that you need new lifters? Are they ticking? Good luck!

A while back, I asked at a junkyard if they had them and they found them and the brackets for about the same price as listed here, it was just too rich for my blood at the time... and still... and I really don't like the look of them anyways, but it really shouldnt be that hard to find new ones. It is a junkyard but they also sell aftermarket new parts, so just call around, or call a body shop and ask them who their suppliers are and if you can get what you need.

PI? Is that like Magnum PI? :hmm: Just wondering!

Should take more than 1 quart, but less than 2, so get 2! What axle is it, where is it leaking from? Just curious.

The ony way I could see putting in CV joints is if thats all I had and I knew it would get me fixed and going again. And I think only the ZJ CV's will work, not the WJ's, so if you do end up taking them, make sure theyre from a ZJ.

I remember a while back someone talking about this and that there was an aftermarket rear sway bar available, but only for longbeds. I'm not sure with our trucks that there is much need for them unless you are going to lower one and expect it to handle well on an autocross course... like the scca trucks so many have pictures of saved in our hardrives. And most vehicle Ive seen with rear swaybars, the bars are so small, I don't see how they do much to help.

I think I heard that starting 2012 all new vehicles will be required to have stability control, which means ALL new vehicles will also have ABS... one more system we really don't need to pay for, and one more thing that the govt is trying to do for our own good. The problem there being that stupid people are no longer dying and natural selection is getting all screwed up!

I think you need to adjust your track bar....lokks a little off to one side in the front! :nuts: NICE WORK! :thumbsup:

:agree: That thing was effing sweet!

is the small wire to the starter solenoid in place? Maybe thats why you couldnt start, if thats the starter wire, but I don't know. That would explain why it kept running but won't turn over to restart. I would start there and maybe someone else could give you the rest> Good luck!

Sweet! I could watch stuff like that all day! Astrophysics is soo cool. Just shows how small some peoples minds can be when it comes to the bigger picture. In the grand scheme of things we as humans mean absolutely nothing, and to think that with all THAT out there, that we are the only ones here is just absurd. Newton, Einstein, Sagan, Hawking... they have it more right than any of us know or can comprehend.

1.3 L approx 200 HP, and shnitty gas milage and little low end torque..... even if it would go in, I don't think it would be a good wheelin engine... those engines LOVE to rev, and revving is not what wheeling is about. Power to weight would be great though... but all at high rpm.

He said his Cruise control also didnt work, so I assume some kind of speed sensor.

WOW :thumbsup: