Pete M

it's a 2wd/4.0/auto/4dr with rotted floors, melted #2 piston and smashed in passenger side doors from the accident. I've already grabbed the obvious stuff for my empty MJ (front clip, wire harness, head with intake/exhaust manifolds, dash, hvac, brake booster, door guts/glass, front seats, belts). the steering column is still in place just in case I need it for this Jeep's final maneuvers but I'm taking it eventually. I just get this nagging feeling that I'm missing... something. maybe that feeling is there because I'm leaving behind some things that I'd normally snatch (if it wasn't in my grandma's driveway) like the gas tank and 8.25 axle, or the rear hatch because it's huge and I have no use for it. should I be focusing on the fuel pump wire harness? the plan is an MJ swap for all this.

it looks super awesome and I'd bet works fantastic to keep the Georgia sun off my neck. I love it!

roll protection in the 80s was... technically there. sorta. strictly by the rules, most if not all general offroad parks consider a solid roof "good enough" for their liability concerns, though certain trails or styles of wheeling would need more (racing competitions for example). From a personal standpoint, my wheeling style is mostly slow and methodical so I consider the 2" DOM rollbar to be good enough for my truck. If I was more aggressive I would certainly consider an internal cage or basic external (cab protection). If I sought out the tippy lines on a regular basis, I'd go with a full external so I had a better shot of not having to swap my drivetrain all over again. keep in mind that A-pillar is very fragile and can seriously screw up your truck should it bend.

looks like 10 bucks can get you one on ebay. out of curiosity I was searching for other states' 76 plates and Michigan's is by far the most interesting one.

I understand memory problems. each day is full of brand new discoveries of things I already knew.

duh! it's so obvious to me now thanks!

I only collect one plate (on purpose anyway. sometimes I find an old michigan blue in a random parts box). it's my grandfather's vanity plate from 1976. looks like this one but has his last name on it. not for sale or trade

yup, that describes my years of ownership. happy, happy, happy, happy, frustrated, repeat.

do they still make those aluminum tubs? but you nailed it, where does it stop? personally I'd leave it alone save for safety and some drive-ability issues because the rabbit hole is so very, very deep... I'm not sure where I could stop.

so this XJ I'm stripping is a bit rustier than I remember (go figure) and a lot of the little trim screws in the front fascia snapped off with no real effort. what have you guys done to fix this sort of thing? I did some really hack things to keep my old 88 together up front and I'd rather find a proper fix. I've never worked with fiberglass before but I don't really need this piece and it's free so I'm totally willing to experiment with it.

how about this one:

could be a bad sensor. the link in my sig has a few threads with diagnostic methods for them. have you run through Cruiser's MJ tips yet? that should be like the first link.

that's why I was wondering if it was the first. I see it more and more as a mod to regular cars. even to the point of fake ones being done just for looks.

is that where the zero-protection-for-the-intercooler trend started?

it's exactly-96. with a bit more rust than I remember. I'm not sure if the front fascia is usable. all the little screws snapped off in the fiberglass. doesn't have a dash clock though. just a blank panel.

bump so I can find it

yay! answer found! new question, why do those wrenches have a male end on them in the first place?

it's got a matching 3/8" square hole on the other side and is knurled.

I guess because they are a continuation of the same wire? who knows.

first thing to check is the the ballast resistor. little 3"-ish ceramic thing on the drivers side in the engine bay with 2 wires going to it. make sure the wires are connected properly. the computer bypasses it at startup and then puts power to the fuel pump through it after a few seconds (to lessen the voltage and lower the noise from the pump).

I'm hoping to get everything except the 3 engine blocks, hoist, and the aw4 (basically the really heavy things). that might be optimistic though since I more or less have filled an 8x10 shed and I'm not done stripping the XJ yet.

wouldn't that be a five point harness? although I'm probably not the best to be the counter as there are 5 bolts for the hvac and was baffled as to why it wouldn't come out after I unscrewed 4 of them.

random guy just stopped by the house after spotting the CRD on the back of the Jeep and asked if I knew anyone that could work on them. I gave him the number of the mechanic that sold me the parts. oh, and also I bought a few spare parts. as in, the entire contents of the engine bay of a CRD libby that overheated and ruined piston #2. turbo, hoses, AC parts, head, block, wire harness, everything.

yup. 4.56 apparently the aw4 sucked too much power from the 2.5 and it needed the extra oomph. (that ratio only applies to 2.5L/aw4 jeeps, not the earlier ones with the non-OD auto trans). It wasn't very popular and Jeep eventually did away with it as an option.