Pete M

could be a bad sensor. the link in my sig has a few threads with diagnostic methods for them. have you run through Cruiser's MJ tips yet? that should be like the first link.

that's why I was wondering if it was the first. I see it more and more as a mod to regular cars. even to the point of fake ones being done just for looks.

is that where the zero-protection-for-the-intercooler trend started?

it's exactly-96. with a bit more rust than I remember. I'm not sure if the front fascia is usable. all the little screws snapped off in the fiberglass. doesn't have a dash clock though. just a blank panel.

bump so I can find it

yay! answer found! new question, why do those wrenches have a male end on them in the first place?

it's got a matching 3/8" square hole on the other side and is knurled.

I guess because they are a continuation of the same wire? who knows.

first thing to check is the the ballast resistor. little 3"-ish ceramic thing on the drivers side in the engine bay with 2 wires going to it. make sure the wires are connected properly. the computer bypasses it at startup and then puts power to the fuel pump through it after a few seconds (to lessen the voltage and lower the noise from the pump).

I'm hoping to get everything except the 3 engine blocks, hoist, and the aw4 (basically the really heavy things). that might be optimistic though since I more or less have filled an 8x10 shed and I'm not done stripping the XJ yet.

wouldn't that be a five point harness? although I'm probably not the best to be the counter as there are 5 bolts for the hvac and was baffled as to why it wouldn't come out after I unscrewed 4 of them.

random guy just stopped by the house after spotting the CRD on the back of the Jeep and asked if I knew anyone that could work on them. I gave him the number of the mechanic that sold me the parts. oh, and also I bought a few spare parts. as in, the entire contents of the engine bay of a CRD libby that overheated and ruined piston #2. turbo, hoses, AC parts, head, block, wire harness, everything.

yup. 4.56 apparently the aw4 sucked too much power from the 2.5 and it needed the extra oomph. (that ratio only applies to 2.5L/aw4 jeeps, not the earlier ones with the non-OD auto trans). It wasn't very popular and Jeep eventually did away with it as an option.

you'll love it in a week or so we're going to really test it's hauling capabilities. one way or another I need to move the rest of my Jeep parts from MI to GA so we'll see what it can do.

howling? stock 2.5L/autos came with 4.56 gears and, what, 26" tires? that's 3800rpms at 65mph. I think you'll be juuuust fine at a thousand rpms less than stock.

I can't wait til I finally have an MJ to putter around to all the shows

and just the outer skin too. at least he has "or best offer". maybe he'll accept a reasonable amount? (probably not )

hard pass. I don't get involved with "title issues". plus it's easier to resist now that I have the pile of spares

it's a real battle. the rubber is wearing away at the plastic and the plastic is slicing off slivers of rubber. it's at all four corners too. I'm thinking of getting the fronts re-balanced before I head south again as the steering wheel has developed quite a shimmy at freeway speeds. I guess it's all part of the sacrifices that must be made to run bigger tires on a Jeep with tiny wheelwells. I'm just happy that I was able to get usable rubber with these rims so I can gain experience for later on when I shell out real money for tires.

it'll be a 1.5" OME lift, but since it's drop almost 2" since new, it'll feel like a 3" lift heck, at this point if I could wave a magic wand and get it back to stock I'd do it. I'm growing tired of listening to the tires and flares doing battle when I turn into a steep driveway.

need just a weeee bit more bumpstop

I can't wait til I can tear into it and rebuild the suspension. she needs a lift!

I've not yet heard that there's a difference