Pete M

I'd probably still go with RE, but that's just me. They have a great reputation for quality. But either kit should work well. :thumbsup: Oh, and please see Rule #2: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1239

Some creative finds so far. :D Haven't a clue what this is for, but apparently it monitors and controls something. :dunno:

And make sure you take the proper steps to keep it rust free. Pull up that carpet and be sure to clean behind the rear wheel wells religiously. :thumbsup:

Or if one of the yokes is broken, grab a rear driveshaft from an XJ and get that one retubed to the proper length. Or find one from a 2wd MJ and have it shortened. The only limitation here is finding a driveshaft with yokes that accept the proper sized U-joints. Then get it retubed or shortened. Plenty of vehicles will have the right sized yokes. :thumbsup:

A few years back I watched one of those bubbles burst on the van that was directly in front of me. It blew about a second after I recognized what it was. Fortunately we had just pulled from a stop light so it wasn't exactly life threatening (pretty loud though).

Doesn't a POR kit come with the cleaning agents?

That's a good question. I'm not sure how to get enough access to that shelf to do POR-15 properly. :dunno:

An SOA conversion (5-6") makes the rear lift cheap, but the front lift expense. A slightly less lift (3-4") and keeping it SUA makes the front lift cheaper, but the rear will get more expensive. I like to first choose a tire and the type of 4wheeling that the truck is most likely to see, and then tally up a list of what it takes to make my truck work great around that. If I wanted 31s and a lift for mild wheeling, I'd stick with SUA and a 3-4" lift. You can keep those costs down by doing short arms up front (with longer LCAs) and the other items like a longer track bar, brake lines and sway bar links, and then I'd splurge on full leaf packs for the rear (although a 3" MJ AAL will also suffice for the time being if you want to keep costs manageable). 3" coils track bar for a 3" lift gas charged shocks for a 3" lift sway bar links for a 3" lift (preferably the quick-disconnect kind) YJ front brake lines LCAs for a 3" lift (splurging on adjustable ones can be worthwhile) 3" AAL or full packs 95 Dakota rear brake line (and then if the front and rear don't turn out quite right, you can add a small spacer to the front or a longer shackle to the rear to tweak that last inch) Other items to put on the future to-do list -redo the rear brake lines to do away with the problematic prop valve -upgrading the front axle shafts to the stronger later model ones (XJ/TJ) that have the bigger U-joints and a solid pass side shaft -upgrading the rear axle -upgrading the gear ratios

The awd option is nice. :D I thought it was the transmission that caused the clocking? :hmm: Hard for me to say though, as I have both the trans ans t-case from the TJ. No contact yet with the floorboards though. :thumbsup:

When that happened to me, it was a blown bearing in the water pump pulley letting the belt wander. :(

belt, chain, bungie cord, spaghetti noodle... it's one of those darn things. :doh:

My computer skills were overwhelmed long ago. Send a PM to Qui Gon-Jinn as he's the unofficial official techie in the club. :thumbsup:

Your overload won't be the limiting factor. Your shocks will. After you solve that issue, your fenders will. After that... well, if you need more flex than that you might want to think about linking the rear. :D This is my stuff with the stock shock mount and the stock 2wd shocks. this is how they are mounted: This is what I'm about to be running: :D

If you have a 2.5L, then you do not want to go with a higher ratio (numerically lower). Your truck will feel like it's suddenly hauling around 500 pounds in the bed everywhere you go. :ack: And if it's 4wd, then you absolutely must match the front axle is you ever want to use 4wd (breakage will occur).

Don't sweat it. Keeps me from having to bump the thread. :cheers:

Interesting. I'll let our techie know about that...

Keep the factory overload leaf! It doesn't affect ride quality at all, but does help control spring-wrap when in an SOA configuration. :thumbsup:

Is there something wrong with yours? or are you doing a 4wd conversion?

Dana 35s can be found with either the rubber plug or the threaded hole.

New thread game. Post up a pic of something that's a Comanche, but not a "Comanche". :yes: Only one photo per person per day (to give everyone a chance). Please upload the photo you find to your own photo host site if possible. I'll go first with an homage to the original Comanches. This is Comanche Chief Quanah Parker

Where are you? and what parameters are you searching under?

Since the front end is practically identical to an XJ, there are plenty of kits out there. Just be aware that the rear will be different. Lots of manufacturers will let you delete the rear crap and you can do your own. Pick the front end lift you want, then find a rear method to match. :thumbsup: 31s will be more friendly to both the Dana 35 and the 2.5L engine. And for what it's worth, I blew up a Dana 35 on 30" tires on the street. :ack:

Try car-part.com It's a search engine for lots of junkyards I paid $50 for my last one.

I've been told that it's simply not possible. phpbb doesn't support it yet. Maybe with the next update though. :D

Timing belt?