Pete M

What aspects failed?

Save your money on the bolt on SOA kit. Welding on perches is super easy, just find someone that can do it. Muffler shops or the like will have a welder. Let's start at the beginning. What size tires are you looking to run? What type of wheeling? Any planned highway use?

"Should" be the same for most years.

Clearance under the tie-rod can be a very good thing. :D It's bad when your tie-rod frowns. :(

When all 4 tires are rotating, but that is all that's moving. :shake: For example when the front axle is high-centered on a log. Or the tires need to be aired down just a wee bit more Or when you're following in the footsteps of 38" tires

Even if it's rust-free now, it won't be for long if it ever sees winter. My 86 was rust free when I bought it (truck was from Cali, then spent a few years in Oklahoma, then brought to Michigan to die a slow death from the red cancer).

Did you leave a club card behind?

He's here. I just got an email from him. But for some reason the anti-spammer program thinks his computer has a virus and is being used by spammers :dunno: or something like that. We're looking into it. :typing:

I think I fixed it. :thumbsup:

Heading home tomorrow. Will likely be offline until I get there. Sorry we didn't get a chance to hang out Bo. :cheers: Maybe next time when I have more warning about the trip and can actually plan stuff. I didn't even get to a single junkyard. :(

The Peugeot gets its bad rap because it was put behind an engine it was barely rated for. Maybe it'd last forever behind a 2.5L. :dunno:

:dunno: Probably something I accidentally clicked. :doh: Wouldn't be the first time. :shake:

How big of a tire are you wanting to run? And don't answer " as big as possible". Lifting the front end 6+ inches can be really expensive and really big tires can break your stock axles.

Picked up my '88 MJ back in '97 when I was 21. Been hooked ever since. :D

How much lift do you want in the end?

So it worked great... right up until it didn't? :D

Both in the midst of the conversion: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15934&start=20 viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10092&start=86

What's a "clutch switch" for? Are you referring to a switch that won't let you crank the engine without the clutch pedal depressed? 'Cause none of my MJs have one. :D

As you found out, pipe shouldn't be used on anything that is necessary for forward movement or self preservation (no rollbars, control arms, driveshafts etc.) It's just not strong enough. :thumbsup:

The only mod necessary was to grind a bit off the metal insert in the bushings (they are a hair too wide). Other than that they bolt right in. I went the extra step to trim the control arms mounts a bit for max articulation, but it's not that necessary. Control arm photos start near the bottom of page one: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1556

HAven't a clue if autozone would have them. Take a tape measure with you when hitting the junkyards. Measure the bearing cap diameter on the MJ axleshafts you've got. Those would be 260s. The 297s will have slightly wider bearing caps. (off the top of my head I can't think of the exact numbers)

Have yours retubed with some slightly beefier metal. Don't go overkill though. I've heard of problems balancing a shaft made from too thick of metal. I wanna say the guy was using 1/4" tube. :dunno:

I wouldn't touch that Rough Country lift with a ten foot pole. I wouldn't touch any lift over 2" that didn't provide longer lower control arms, longer brake lines a longer track bar and some sort of sway bar extension. It's cheap for a reason. Also, they don't know how to spell Comanche (the firefox tab has 2 'M's). :fs1: My 90 has 31s on Jeep 15x7 rims with no lift. Only mod was to add WJ lower control arms to eliminate the rubbing there.

If you're contemplating swapping MJ axle shafts into a CV-shafted XJ axle, then you've got one minor dilemma. The CV axle will not have a CAD. Almost all MJ axles are of the CAD variety and the passenger side axle shaft will be a 2-piece unit and can't go into a non-CAD axle. You'll need a shaft from a non-CAD front axle. You might as well focus your efforts on some axle shafts that use the bigger 297 U-joints as they will be stronger. TJs, 96+ XJs, and older XJs that had ABS will have the proper shafts/joints. And yes, the axle shafts will always and only go with the type of joint they were made for. The yokes on the ends of the shafts will only connect to the proper joint, whether CV or 260 U-joint or 297 U-joint. :thumbsup:

Chances are very good they will either be 3.55 or 3.07. A quick and dirty way to check ratio is to hold one brake drum still and rotate the other one around exactly twice. Count the number of times the pinion yoke spins around. Just over 3 times is 3.07, about 3 and a half if 3.55, etc. Going prices differ area to area. These days I wouldn't pay more than $300 for one that was in good shape and was the proper ratio for my needs. If it's beat up or the wrong ratio, the price drops quickly to $200. Also, 3.07 is always the wrong ratio for me.