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MonkUSMC

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  • Location
    Ft. Lost in the Wood, MO
  • Interests
    Marine Corps/Jeeps/RC Cars

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Can Spell Comanche

Can Spell Comanche (2/11)

  1. So I resealed/replaced every part that was wrong with the cylinderhead, and now there's still oil burning and leaking everywhere into the engine area and sometimes into my cab when I drove it again earlier today. The truck won't seem to push itself past 35mph on the speedo, I do have 31" tires though, it might just very well be the lack of power that 4cyl has, so I am not concerned about that, just worried about the excessive smoke that comes out of the engine after 3 minutes of idling/driving. Thanks.
  2. That makes sense, cause' the bolts weren't that tight on there. The oil was also completely black, and was told that might have caused that too. Thanks for the replies though. LCpl Monk
  3. So what would have caused it? lol.
  4. As of now I just need to replace my valve cover gasket, since that it leaking oil. The engine runs fine so far, except the leaks, so I am not using it as my DD at the moment. The rods were on the same cylinder, the one closer to me was off the things, and the one next to that farther away was bent, this was on the 3rd cylinder down looking from the front. Another thing, what was that metal link thing that hooks up to the rear axle for? I know it is some type of brakes, since when the main thing was down, the axle slowed down, I kind of broke it lifting the Jeep up, so I zip-tied it all the way up, lol, it doesn't slow the vehicle down anymore.
  5. Found the problem, one of the push rods was completely bent, and the other one wasnt even set in.
  6. It's an 86, and I am not sure on how old the CPS is.
  7. So I finally lifted my Jeep up and got the new tires and everything, I drove it around the block, and when I was driving, every few seconds the Jeep studdered almost at an exact time. I pulled into the driveway and it stalled on me and won't start back up, the idle was running very rough also. The engine was rebuilt a few months ago and only has maybe 200miles on it. What could be the problems? I just bought new spark plugs, so that won't be it. Thanks, LCpl Monk
  8. There's a guy near Parris Island who was asking $7500 for his 4cyl 2wd 1990 lol. I think $2400 would be way too much, considering I bought my 86' 4cyl 4wd no rust rebuilt engine for $1000.
  9. Yeah I wasn't expecting to get low 10's on the 1/4mi with that 2.5L but just wondering if getting intakes/exhaust systems would get a little extra power for the 33"s I'm planning on putting. If my D35 brake, I will get D44 4.10, but I'll just wait until its time for that. Thanks though. LCpl Monk
  10. I know a 4.10 gear would be the most beneficial to acceleration on my 2.5L 1986, but are there any GOOD cold air intakes and exhaust systems for a 2.5L 1986 Comanche/Cherokee? I've looked on google, Quadratec and 4wheelparts and came across just about nothing, except this one that claims 21hp 36ft/lb torque @ 5300rpm for the low price of $400 lol. http://www.racepages.com/products/?N=5565&Nr=OR(AND(make:Jeep,year:1986),AND(universal:1))&Vi=1557+4294965185&y=1986&mk=Jeep Thanks, LCpl Monk
  11. Alright. I'll wait until July or so when I have the money saved up. I still gotta buy tires and possible BS rims if needed. Found some BFG tires MT/2 for 168@ 33" off discounttires.com Yea I noticed that rule after I posted, don't NJP or court martial me lol.
  12. So I built that kit you've mentioned, Pete, and it came out to around $1020 including the leafs from Hell Creek, that's without shipping. Or I could just buy the whole MJ 4.5" kit from HCS and get it for around $968 with shipping and adjustable LCA's. So would paying the extra $200 and getting a front lift from RE worth that much more in the long run then if I just went and bought one from HCS? Sorry for asking so much lol. Thanks, PFC Monk
  13. Thanks. But I think its about 50mi away from that in Sanford on a street I don't know the name of. Since I never payed attention to my friends address lol. Ill just ask him what axle. Alright so no spacers. Out of those 3 then, what else do you think I'll need to buy so the Jeep is properly lifted? I'm starting to go more towards SOA now since it should give me the most lift for lowest cost, that or just get new leafs since it is an 86.
  14. Well I'm on the RE site to see a build myself. So far I'm looking at 4.5" Coil Springs, 1.75" spacers, trackbar MJ, and 4.5"-5.5" twin tube shocks for $564. They have a front kit for $1200 with SOA, that seems plausible if I have no other good choice. There's a few things I don't like on that kit, like the swaybar/disconnects, since I really don't like running swaybars, even though they help in handling on-road, I figured I wouldn't be going fast enough around corners for them to actually be a use to me, considering I've ran without them on my Cherokee with no issues. I appreciate all the guidance you have gave me in trying to find a good lift for my MJ, this will help me in getting what I want out of my Jeep for the money I can spend for it. Thanks, PFC Monk
  15. I've already been sucked in the CC lol. Well my Jeep's in Orlando, and I'm about 1159miles away, so finding the axle might be hard unless I catch one of my friends to look under. I won't be wheeling that intense in Florida, there's hardly any hills, so D35's should still hold, or I can just get 31"s, since 2 inches really won't make that extreme of a difference. This will be my DD for a good amount of time, so I was planning on switching the gears to a 4.10 as said in other threads, since my 4 banger doesn't have too much power in it. The RE would be too expensive for me, so I might get the Hell Creek one for $750. I just want to find a good lift kit for my Jeep since there's hardly any kits for that truck, everything else for me is easy and I can figure out, except electrical, I hate that stuff.
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