Pete M

That's worthwhile enough to add to the suggestions. :thumbsup: Good luck getting people to do it though. No one ever reads the stickies. :shake:

Ummmm. That's certainly a creative thought. :idea: I'll swing that by the sticker guy near me and see if he has any ideas.

Whoops. :doh: Yours wasn't supposed to leave. I've now moved it back. Guess I'm still not an "expert" at merging/splitting. :shake: That's a good point on having prices. I forgot all about that.

Nothing was deleted. I just moved them out of the thread to clean it up. JT, I totally understand your concerns, but the fact remains that I can't force someone to care about MJs, their owners, or this site. I could theoretically force them to post up 25 or 30 posts, but that won't make them care. An example: right now I've got a pair of Bronco axles I want to liquidate (need the money more than I need the 4.88 gears) and the cast wedge design pretty much narrows my potential buying pool to a select few. So I go to a Bronco website that I've been on before back when I owned a 78 Bronco, and my lack of "recent" activity means I have to start from scratch trying to find posts in the tech section that I've got answers too. I gotta tell ya, I don't know a whole lot about the old Broncos, and all the easy questions that I might have answers to are already answered. I don't own a Bronco anymore. It's long gone. Just a memory and a title hanging on the wall. I have no desire to buy another. And it just gets me angry me as I spend my time trying to find productive responses when all I want to to pass the axles on to someone who needs them. If you want to encourage someone to interact with the group, how about sending them a friendly PM? Maybe asking them a question or something? I seriously doubt that someone who wasn't inclined to join our conversations before, is suddenly going to be all gung-ho to share their MJ knowledge after someone rips them a new one in a public venue. :dunno:

Don't sweat it. :thumbsup: Just the other day I said that 2.5Ls have a timing "belt". :yes:

For that price I'd be looking into making a custom mount. :ack: Maybe try to fit an AX-15 mount somehow? Not sure if they share any common bolt dimensions though. Probably not. :( Heck, for that price I'd be looking into swapping in the entire AX-15. :yes:

Oh snap, you did NOT just say that. :doh: All MJ leafs are the same length, regardless of bed size (or payload or number of powered wheels). :thumbsup: But he is right on the other stuff. Metric Ton models will have a bit stiffer springs, and 4wd models sit about an inch higher than 2wd.

With having done zero scientific research on this, I prefer hub-centric because the center hub shares the loads with the lugs. :thumbsup:

I've thought about that too. Mostly because it'd give more ground clearance. But I'm not going to do it until I can get a Hi-9 diff in the back. :D Matching your front driveshaft is a great idea. I hadn't thought of that. :thumbsup:

Make sure you get TJ rims and not the JK rims (unless you're planning on running spacer/boltpattern adapters).

I demand to see the pile of cash!! :bowdown:

Please don't spend any money trying to rebuild a Dana 35. The axle is so weak that it may fail again in short order. :(

I'd probably still go with RE, but that's just me. They have a great reputation for quality. But either kit should work well. :thumbsup: Oh, and please see Rule #2: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1239

Some creative finds so far. :D Haven't a clue what this is for, but apparently it monitors and controls something. :dunno:

And make sure you take the proper steps to keep it rust free. Pull up that carpet and be sure to clean behind the rear wheel wells religiously. :thumbsup:

Or if one of the yokes is broken, grab a rear driveshaft from an XJ and get that one retubed to the proper length. Or find one from a 2wd MJ and have it shortened. The only limitation here is finding a driveshaft with yokes that accept the proper sized U-joints. Then get it retubed or shortened. Plenty of vehicles will have the right sized yokes. :thumbsup:

A few years back I watched one of those bubbles burst on the van that was directly in front of me. It blew about a second after I recognized what it was. Fortunately we had just pulled from a stop light so it wasn't exactly life threatening (pretty loud though).

Doesn't a POR kit come with the cleaning agents?

That's a good question. I'm not sure how to get enough access to that shelf to do POR-15 properly. :dunno:

An SOA conversion (5-6") makes the rear lift cheap, but the front lift expense. A slightly less lift (3-4") and keeping it SUA makes the front lift cheaper, but the rear will get more expensive. I like to first choose a tire and the type of 4wheeling that the truck is most likely to see, and then tally up a list of what it takes to make my truck work great around that. If I wanted 31s and a lift for mild wheeling, I'd stick with SUA and a 3-4" lift. You can keep those costs down by doing short arms up front (with longer LCAs) and the other items like a longer track bar, brake lines and sway bar links, and then I'd splurge on full leaf packs for the rear (although a 3" MJ AAL will also suffice for the time being if you want to keep costs manageable). 3" coils track bar for a 3" lift gas charged shocks for a 3" lift sway bar links for a 3" lift (preferably the quick-disconnect kind) YJ front brake lines LCAs for a 3" lift (splurging on adjustable ones can be worthwhile) 3" AAL or full packs 95 Dakota rear brake line (and then if the front and rear don't turn out quite right, you can add a small spacer to the front or a longer shackle to the rear to tweak that last inch) Other items to put on the future to-do list -redo the rear brake lines to do away with the problematic prop valve -upgrading the front axle shafts to the stronger later model ones (XJ/TJ) that have the bigger U-joints and a solid pass side shaft -upgrading the rear axle -upgrading the gear ratios

The awd option is nice. :D I thought it was the transmission that caused the clocking? :hmm: Hard for me to say though, as I have both the trans ans t-case from the TJ. No contact yet with the floorboards though. :thumbsup:

When that happened to me, it was a blown bearing in the water pump pulley letting the belt wander. :(

belt, chain, bungie cord, spaghetti noodle... it's one of those darn things. :doh:

My computer skills were overwhelmed long ago. Send a PM to Qui Gon-Jinn as he's the unofficial official techie in the club. :thumbsup:

Your overload won't be the limiting factor. Your shocks will. After you solve that issue, your fenders will. After that... well, if you need more flex than that you might want to think about linking the rear. :D This is my stuff with the stock shock mount and the stock 2wd shocks. this is how they are mounted: This is what I'm about to be running: :D