Pete M

I would leave the frame alone and notch the cab to work around it if there's interference. But that's just me. The frame is only sheetmetal and I've never been comfortable with the idea of hacking it up and piecing it back together.

Wait, why are you cutting up the frame? :hmm: I thought you were talking about extending the cab and then shortening the bed, but leaving the frame unmolested.

I guess the fuel tank dilemma all depends on precisely how you extend the cab backwards. It might not have to extend down below the upper framerail surface between the rails. Maybe the baby tank from the longbed will work in it's place? :dunno: What I mean is, make a flat floor between the tops of the frame rails as you push the back wall rearward.

Or maybe this one. :drool: Undoubtedly the rarest 4 banger MJ out there.

The fan is for trail use and pulls air out of the engine bay and throws it forward out the scoop. But, with the truck at highway speeds and the fan turned off, air still moves out of the engine bay through the scoop. It's opposite of what you might think. And I got the strut (singular) from the store. They just don't list what strut goes to what car or van. I bought a bunch and returned the ones that didn't work.

I think he's just looking for a thread where members can peruse different ideas for hood functionality and design. Lord know we've got them for bumpers and tires and such. :yes: And it seems Geonovast was kind enough to show us some stock hoods for comparison. :D Here's my slightly modified stock hood. Hood pins (after the factory latch system died), handles for lifting the hood up, a booty-fab hood lift strut (don't ask what the strut came from, I don't know), and the hand-formed "hood scoop" that is actually the vent for the pusher fan below that sucks the hot air out of the engine bay.

They made those? :nuts: What year was that an option? I gotta get me one of those. :yes:

I think he means that it won't rev higher than 3500. :D Did this come on suddenly or gradually?

You're thinking of the 86 MJs. 87+ Won't need those particular changes.

You would not be the first person to gut an MJ and install a newer drivetrain. :thumbsup: But be aware that you'll need everything from the donor Jeep.

Tech questions should really go in the Tech forum so more guys will see it. :thumbsup:

The front driveshaft is constantly spinning in a TJ (no CAD). That kind of damage could have happened after the case blew, but before the Jeep came to a stop. My head hurts just thinking of those parts whipping around and around at 65mph under the Jeep. :ack:

It might become easier if you merely loosen the cap bolts. :yes: And that's the crank you're hammering near. Being focused and precise with your violence is highly recommended. :thumbsup:

Firewall... or the windshield... or the door... or the cowl... or ??? Some of our trucks might as well be topless. :shake:

Was it in 4wd? Was the front driveshaft still attached to the front axle after the carnage?

Sprinkle it around where the water lies. I promise you'll be able to see the trails through the powder. Even a tiny trickle of water will pick up and carry the powder away with it as it moves. :thumbsup: It doesn't have to be a heavy coating of powder or anythign like that. Just a light sprinkle will do. What's the worse that happens? It doesn't work and you have to vacuum up the powder? :dunno: The technique has helped me track down several leaks that I would never have fathomed on my own. :cheers:

Those look pretty darn good considering. :thumbsup: Was the carpet damp underneath? For comparison, this is the "floor" in my gray 90:

Been there, done that. A wireless optical mouse will change your life. :D

Well, that might be a while then. :D If nothing else, the 2.4 is known for longevity if properly maintained. If bigger tires are in your future, I do recommend a swap to the 5speed version of the trans and then axles with 4.10 gears. The 2.5L+4speed only came with 3.55 gears. 2.5L+5speed = 4.10s and those axles can come from Jeeps other than MJs too.

If you haven't already, you should at least tie it up so the big swing arm is about parallel to the ground. I feel your pain. My gray 90 turned out to be way worse than I was figuring when I bought it (based on my experience with my 88). :( That (and needing a new fuse box) have sidelined the project for over a year now.

I skimmed through my brochures and they list power locks/windows as options on higher end MJ models for 86, 87, and 88. But I didn't see it as an options in 89, 90, 91, 92.

-Radio Delete, -Manual Steering, and then "Power Heated Driver Memory Mirrors, Fold Away". :rotf: Looks like more issues with the computer programs that try to decipher Chrysler's records. :yes:

That contact happened when I put WJ arms on my stock height 90. A little bit of grinding helped immensely. :thumbsup: