Pete M

Lookin' good! Did you ever get a hold of the other MJ?

How powerful is the alternator?

:agree: The driveshaft will need to be the proper length, but the SYE isn't needed. Still a good upgrade in strength if you can float it, but it's not necessary. :thumbsup:

Made it to Disney. Feels weird to wear shorts again.

I'm quite certain it's 42" center to center. I'm 7 hours from my nearest MJ though so I can't go check. Make doubly sure you find the true axle centerline. I screwed that up once on my 9". :D Good thing I didn't have a welder at the time or it could have been real ugly. :shake:

I give ya a couple weeks before you start regretting the sale. :D

Not factory stuff. Likely 2 different aftermarket manufacturers. :thumbsup:

Dual batteries are generally overkill with anything less than a winch. But a good quality battery would be nice for sure. :thumbsup: I've been using an optima redtop for years and it's handled everything I've ever thrown at it (like a big honkin' stereo system). :D

Yup. Part of my interest is the build year. The other part being it's in the same town as my parents house. :brows:

i'd start by figuring out where it's leaking. :thumbsup: Or you can throw the book at it with BLHTAZ's list. :D

If more info was discovered during the tear-down, maybe. Depends on how scored the cylinder walls are. But if nothing is wrong, I personally would throw on a new timing chain set and seals and call it good. :thumbsup: Others may have different opinions. Would you be doing the work yourself? Everything I'd be doing would be done with the engine still in the truck.

Maybe. :brows:

A better plan might be to replace the seals. You could end up spending a ton of money on a straight rebuild and not feel the difference. :dunno: If the truck feels sluggish with bigger tires, gearing would be the way I'd go about fixing that aspect. :thumbsup:

My 90 had a bad intermittent box and that caused the wipers to do all sorts of odd things, including exceeding the stops and smacking the windshield frames.

Is there something wrong with the engine? 130k is nothing for a 4.0. :D

Libby CRD? :brows:

I made my own out of some scrap fencing. I too was concerned with air flow, but I removed the AC condenser and the grille fins, and used a wider mesh than the aftermarket units.

Are you using the old injection system? The motor block doesn't matter, the flywheel needs to match the injection system. :thumbsup:

This is a shot that he took probably months ago (or when the date was stamped, but who keeps those accurate?). Picture it with more mildew and a couple flat tires.

:clapping:

baby powder and a garden hose works wonders for finding those leaks. :D And As long as you properly repair, prep and POR-15 the floor, the bedliner should work fine. :thumbsup: The carpet does absorb sound and heat, but it shouldn't be that bad without it.

Motor's there. But it's in the bed and the guy says the head is fubared. :dunno:

And I think I'm going to pass on it. :( It's a painful decision for sure. I sooooo wanted it to be as perfect as my 90 shell, but the floors are starting to bubble up rust (carpet pad is soaked). Can't say for sure how bad it is since I could only pull up the corner of the carpet (didn't have the proper tools to dig further). I think I'm going to tell the guy that if no one else wants it I'll still pay scrap value to keep it from, uh, scrap. The body is solid. Just a damaged spot under one of the taillights. The engine is removed (2.5L) and it's 2wd so the only real value is a solid body (except for the floors). Oh, and it needs a serious scrubbing to get the mildew off. What is with this state and the mildew? Anyone want to save it? It's in Loganville, GA. Guy's asking like 4 or 5 hundred for it.

That sounds strangely familiar. :D I blew up the ring/pinion under similar circumstances. :shake: