Crash

If you hold the key between start and run does it continue running? I had that issue a couple different times. First was ignition switch, so I bypassed that with a toggle and push button start. Second time was the ballast resistor. From my understanding all the "new" ones are crap. I bypassed that as well and have zero issues.

IRO trackbar on the less-expensive side of things. Otherwise, Synergy RE 1660HD with bracket, Clayton offroad, TNT Customs, etc.

Same input shaft spline count, IIRC. So, in theory yes.

Very nice find. At least with a D44, you can get a thick-cut gear set and not have to swap the carrier.

Exploder rear axle in my MJ https://goo.gl/photos/65ToY6Dmyiu7Sk2c6 Driver side, can see how the spring plate functions. https://goo.gl/photos/ZeDgrgbNh7pMVTSj7 Pass. side. https://goo.gl/photos/aMLsTVF6gNgucQfF7 Failed, rusty muffler. https://goo.gl/photos/o2dSPgEhLNceL6X29 Was not sure before what exactly was rattling. Figured it was either the cat or the muffler or both. After closer inspection, the cat looks to be good inside, the muffler, not so much. Debating on whether or not to just run a muffler with a turndown style exit. Or, chop the muffler off from the rest of the exhaust, cut out the rusty end of the tail pipe and maybe run some kind of stainless tip. Interestingly, with cat only is not as loud as my XJ was when I removed exhaust. But I think that the inside of my XJ cat was busted up inside.

Nice to know. Most any time I have started to get lower mileage, a new oxygen sensor brings it back up. I personally have not had any issues with the Bosch ones, but it makes sense to go this route.

I got my truck back today! Did not get any pics while it was on the lift, as my hands were covered in grease. But the Exploder 88 is in! Brakes feel great. Pedal is better than before, probably partially due to the worn out, not-adjusted brake shoes. For soft brake line mounting, a bolt was welded to the housing on each side and nuts hold the lines in place. The Exploder leaf plates work basically the same as the stock MJ ones. Just the shock "mounts" themselves are different.

Check your local craigslist. I have found reasonable deals on there. Good tires are more important than a bumper. and honestly you are better off with something better than their bumper.

I've always had 235/75R15's or larger on the multiple XJ's I have owned. Combined with the 3.55 gears you will probably see an improvement. But, even with stock gears shouldn't affect much if at all. Really depends on the specific tires.

Thank you ,already ordered the NTK from amazon.

Just step up to the 235/75. And 3.55s will be good.

Not cranking at all? Crank/no start? Crank sensor?

X2

Offer them up for 150-200, and go down from there pending attitude, the person, and how serious they are. At least 100-120 for both sounds very reasonable.

Looks nice, at least they don't stretch out on those wheels. I had ZJ Canyon wheels with 31" MTR-k's on my XJ until recently. They are one of my favorite stock wheels (Yes, I know that the ZJ Canyon wheels are slightly different than the TJ Canyon wheels). Also, always liked the TJ/JK Moab wheels. I had a set of the TJ Moab wheels that I was going to put on my XJ, but ended up selling the set to a friend of mine. I have a set of the JK Moab wheels on my MJ with some aftermarket wheel adapters, on some Yoko AT-s tires in the 265/70R17 flavor. I really like them and think I am going to find another set of the same wheels to run on my XJ. For any of the tire sizes I want to run meow, the price is better for 17" wheels. Back on topic.. To optimize performance, when you get new tires run at least a 10.5 tire. MY is only 2WD currently, but averaging 20+ MPG in my typical daily driving.

Yokohama Geolander AT-s tires. Available in the size you want. One of the best AT tires I have ever ran.

Pull the front drive shaft, until you find a more permanent solution? Or, REPLACE/FIX the bad bearing (or whatever is failing).. if that is really what is wrong. With the fork shifted over and the 2-piece shaft "engaged" is no different than running a non-Cad axle. There is some WRONG.

I think that length of the linkage is really the only issue. Maybe ask if they could supply a longer length of all thread, and cut it down to what you need. IIRC, there was a member on Naxja that is running an AW4/NP241OR with the kit and the length of the linkage was the basic difference.

I'm know sometime, somewhere, that this has been discussed. But, in a quick search on here did not find much of anything. Anyways, I know lots have said that Bosch is not what it used to be, and can have it's issues. Many say NTK is good, especially for Renix. That said, I found a couple of options on amazon. I will also check and see what I can get at work. I found an AC Delco and an NTK. price difference about $10. IF the NTK is the best bet I have no issue sending that extra $. Hoping that there will be some educated responses and feedback. Thank you for looking. ACD 213-1299 http://smile.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-1299-Professional-Heated-Oxygen/dp/B000C9L3ZA/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1440810612&vehicle=1989-42-347-20--9---3363-242-8---14-1-0&sr=1-8&ymm=1989%3Ajeep%3Acherokee&keywords=oxygen+sensor&pebp=1440810627754&perid=0HY2RVYAXMA5ESF4E047 NGK/NTK 23553 http://smile.amazon.com/NGK-23553-Oxygen-Sensor-Packaging/dp/B000C5M0Q0/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1440810612&vehicle=1989-42-347-20--9---3363-242-8---14-1-0&sr=1-13&ymm=1989%3Ajeep%3Acherokee&keywords=oxygen+sensor

Have not done what you specifically ask, but the stock linkage is crap. Boostwerks.com linkage > factory. Contact them for specifics, or order one of the kits they offer.

Do it!

Only ones I have really seen are the ones in the lund windshield visor.

Get one a try it out. I know that it is at least a bit different as the late model uses a larger 1-piece window and has no vent window.

IMO, a blank (no cutouts other than mounting) box that bolts in would be ideal. Then, people can use what they have or what they want in them. I like the idea of the rounded edge that matches the body. Would be nice to potentially bolt on or integrate bed armor of sorts. But nice boxes would be a great start.

I use MMO all the time,at oil changes. I use seafoam or Berryman's B-12 (which is basically the same but cheaper) in the crankcase about once a year for a week or 50-100 miles before I do an oil change. Since it is a solvent of sorts, I personally do not recommend running it for an extended period of time. But there are some old timers that swear by it. I also use it in the intake, and fuel tank. I always keep at least a quart of MMO in my vehicles. It can be used for most anything requiring some type of oil.