Crash

Cowl intake will help

I understand that. But I don't have a 4wd AX15. So it would be that + the 400$ adapter.

Picked up this 01 5.3 vortec for a very good price. Looking at trans options. I'd like to keep my MJ as a manual trans truck. There's a couple of 4l60e's in the back of the shop. If I can't find a manual trans for a reasonable price, I will probably do this swap in my XJ.

Did you get the IRO kit?

For the sake of argument, air lines can freeze/leak. In theory, if your vehicle can run, your E-locker will as well. Everything has it's up/down, but I will probably go the E-locker route in my F8.8

Nope. They're not the same knurl diameter. But studs off a LP front axle are, for some reason. NAXJA says 2003 Rubicon, front or rear, should work. Proven or "specs" on the wheel studs? If they are different, I suppose that something changed when they changed UB's? Even if they are different, I was partially correct.

IIRC, the front end wheel studs are longer, and should work. Have them look up for a D30?

My Renix XJ has always run better without the EGR functional. After I got it almost a decade ago, needed to smog it, and realized that the vac. solenoid did not work. Found a local Jeeper that let me borrow their's to swap in to pass smog "function test" it ran like crap driving it.

Original 88 dummy gauge MJ, swapped in full gauge 89 XJ. Fuel read backwards on original and same on swapped in gauge. I do not have an FSM handy, which color wires are for fuel gauge? Is there anything behind the fuel gauge asy. itself that could be swapped?

Forgot to mention i already have a HD track Bar and Tie rod installed Both from rough country also their hd steering stabilizer.. the drag link is still stock though i have a parts 2000 xj sitting outside are you saying that the drag link from that would be an uppgrade to the mj one and also dirtycomanche can you elaborate a little more on the taper insert please? Hope that RC track bar work better for you than the rest. Drag link is the same for XJ/MJ and 4.0 ZJ. There are a few companies that makes the knuckle inserts, it allows you to run the driver side of the tie rod over the knuckle for a little extra clearance.

IIRC, ZJ rear disc is same for both axles.

Repair the vac line from MAP to TB, should at least help your issue. A small piece of vac hose can be used to connect the hard plastic together.

Rundown of my MJ.. 1988- 4.0L/BA-10/5 Truck originally had dummy gauge cluster. I swapped in a full gauge cluster, and the fuel gauge reads backwards. PO - a friend of mine swapped in a new Delphi? fuel pump asy before I got it. My guess is that is has a HO pump/sender? That would explain why it reads backwards, correct? As IIRC the senders read opposite resistance Renix vs HO. Anyways, I have an HO full gauge cluster from a 92, and was wondering if the fuel gauge asy is a plug n pray swap in the gauge clusters? Any help is appreciated, TIA.

At the very least, I recommend a V8 ZJ tie rod upgrade, IRO double shear adj. trackbar, and some decent adjustable lower control arms. Depending on the lift kit or DIY you have planned there are other things you may need.

Bilstein 5100

I found the 'factory drive shaft length' thread. So, if no one that has swapped in a F8.8 with the stock flange I'll figure it out myself.

For those that run manual trans, 4wd, exploder 8.8 with flange in a longbed.. What is your rear DS length? My MJ is currently 2wd, with 4wd swap in the works. Plan is to run Ax15 + 242 tcase. It already has the F8.8

I ran a 97+ header panel on my renix XJ for a bit before my friend finished his swap and it was alright. There is a gap at the fenders since older is squared at the top. Even when I swapped fenders, i ran stock bumper with no issues. I also have late model header and fenders on my MJ. Had stock front bumper til I got DBO stubby installed.

Well pending on how soon I can aquire an LS-based motor, I may just not bother.. I already have bored TB's for both heeps, so since I know how to use autocad makes sense to make a TB adapter. I know some others interested as well.

I do not need to replace my tps at this time, and I have a spare if necessary. I purchased the male pigtail for ~12$. I have a couple spare auto tps, one of which I will remove the female pigtail to make the adapter harness for future replacement. I plan to make a renix TB to HO mani adapter to run a 99+ intake mani. Although I do like that adapter you have.

Did a little searching on the subject. These sensors would use a pt300 pigtail. I bought one and am going to cut the pigtail from an old auto tps and make an adapter harness.

Pull the spare packs apart. Cut off most of the eye on the main leaf. You will probably use the main and another leaf or 2 with your current leaf pack. You need a longer center pin, longer U bolts. And shocks. I just used 3/8 allen head bolts for center pin. May need to slightly drill out hole in spring perch.

Poly performance

I have the renix era gm single side lock cyl in my late model doors. May need a shim or a different holding clip if cyl is loose? But mine look as if they havent been changed

With KOEO.. When you press your horn 'button' do you hear a click? If so, then as stated check condition of horns.