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Crash

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Everything posted by Crash

  1. I believe 831xj over at naxja did a custom "lower" lift UBE with an 8.8. Any kits are going to get you above that, but with welding ability and such one could do it. basically you just need enough "height" to clear leaf spring center pin apparatus.
  2. Rockauto should have them.
  3. Definitely interested in TL housings. Either of the "discounted parts" available?
  4. I have BD rubber mounts in my XJ and SFR mounts in my MJ. SFR uses larger bushings so there is less vibe.
  5. You can but reman zero mile ax15 for about 700 on ebay.
  6. For what it's worth. I installed a new 100a alt from csk/now 'oreilly auto parts' close to 9 years ago in my XJ and it is just fine to date. Even reman are inexpensive enough to go that route.
  7. I believe they are j-bolts. Could probably use the part store 'battery hold down' bolts. Morris4x4 has inexpensive boots
  8. My new $ 500 DD, Shelby Should help aide in the conversion process and saving coin on fuel and manitenance.
  9. In this situation usually means mech fan clutch is failing/failed.
  10. Dummy gauge or 3/4 gauge?
  11. For 32's you don't need any more than 3" if you are willing to bumpstop and trim the front fenders a bit. Hell Creek makes lift leafes for our MJ's. General springs makes some MT leafs. I have about 3" lift. ZJ Upcountry coils and additional isolator up front, MJ bastard pack + longer shackles in the rear. For anything above 3-3.5 " lift I recommend CAD brackets
  12. I've been running some QS 20w-50 that I found for 1.35/qt . MJ leaks like most Jeepds so it helps a bit. My XJ doesn't leak oil anymore since trans swap/rms/oil pan gasket replacement
  13. I'd go aftermarket, fixed are fine but adj. is better. Otherwise if you can find a decent pair of WJ lowers, they only need a small amount of work to fit.
  14. I think I'll pick some up for my XJ. My MJ b/u lights don't work so I'm not going to bother. I have some pods on a switch if I need to see.
  15. I will most likely go with boostwerks setup for my XJ and my MJ. But, I have been thinking about buying some stainless rod and cutting lh/rh threads on it to be able to adjust it without removing a side.
  16. Using an impact to snug them one is not a big deal. A torque stick @ the correct rating would be acceptable, but torque wrench should be used.
  17. Sell 3.4 and buy a 4.0L or LS-based V8 motor is my recommendation. Seems like is as much work as other swaps I have mentioned. Since it sounds like swapping parts from a heep 2.8 is not an option.
  18. I recommend Synergy adapters , but the other ones are good too. If you look in my thread I have the same wheels on my and Ï have them on my XJ as well
  19. Confirm charging voltage with a DVOM. If 13-14, then wire/ICP issue.
  20. I've only had LWB, but wouldn't mind owning a SWB. I DD mine and enjoy it. Gets better mileage than my XJ, and it's a manual which I also enjoy driving more. I've not slept in the bed yet, but being 6'2 the LWB I can fit front to back comfortably and not have to lay at an angle or with tailgate down. With good protection I see the LWB vs SWB a non-issue for wheeling.
  21. Shipping shows 100+ for me..
  22. Unless you mount the rad more forward than factory, there is no room to install the fan on the WP like most other vehicles.
  23. So, is shipping actually what it states on the site? Kinda kills the deal for me, considering I still need to buy stuff to finish my 4wd swap.
  24. Gears are definitely necessary. 3.55's would help in comparison, but not ideal for 31's. If they are plug n pray, do it for now. I have 32's and 3.73's in my 4.0L/manual MJ. It does decent on the highway and depending on 'grade' I lose a couple mph unless I downshift. But when in 4th I can easily hold 70+ without WOT. I'm sure that the engine is probably tired-ish but never lets me down. I do want more gear. But it works for now. I'm thinking 4.56's as I may go taller
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