HOrnbrod

Yes Keyav8r, this is Pub material, and I agree 100% with you. It also frosts me when people ask technical questions about their rig and don't edit their signature detailing what year, model, engine, etc. they have. I don't even reply to that stuff because I don't like guessing. .

I took Jay's advice and mounted it in the bed where it's protected by the camper shell (and also because the five pounder is too large to fit between the seats). :yes: Image Not Found Image Not Found

I prefer my regulation hard copy FSMs when working on the MJ. When I make mods from the standard (especially wiring changes), I make changes on a notepad then when completed do a finished .dwg in CAD, print it out, and stick it in my FSM at the appropriate schematic page. I hate working from .pdf files on a display. Guess I'm a dinosaur...........

Do the toe adjustment with the tie rod sleeve using the tape measure procedure detailed at this link: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm The drag link adj. sleeve's purpose is to center the steering wheel after you correct the toe. Also shown in the link.

Did you extend the load sensing valve rod the same amount as the lift? If not, the valve will will not bias the rear brakes correctly. Also, the load sensing valve requires an additional bleed procedure as follows (From the FSM, originally posted by Eagle): As far as this post: Agree with the booster/master upgrade. If your load sensing valve is in good shape and want to retain it's functionality because you haul occasional loads in your MJ, ignore the rest of it.

I didn't know what ebonics meant so I looked it up. This is what I found:

Dayem you Brett - UB too fast. :yes: http://stu-offroad.com/axle/d44/d44-1.htm

Yep, agree with that assessment. The norm here is to badmouth everything new. I kind of agree in this case with this latest Mopar effort, but will wait and see what happens. As it stands now, I wouldn't consider it just because of the Korean Jeep wannabe look. The best modern Jeep offering still maintaining semi-tradition is the JK for me, and it sells very well. In spite of that, Jeep Mopar is always looking for new markets. I'm not a marketeer, and don't understand their shift from the traditional designs that got you there to a completely foreign looking vehicle named JeeP Cherokee but only retaining the slot grille. But they even screwed that up.

For non C-clip D35s (and D44s) the bearing retaining plate which is T-bolted to the axle housing holds everything in.

For me it was axle snaps, two in a year, both on the driver's side. I suppose it was the stroker as both happened at stop lights taking off. It's embarrassing. Never hurt the spiders or ring and pinion. Should be fine and last forever with a 2.5 and stock tires though. One thing about the c-clips is that the axles are simple to change.

According to tech articles in the stroker's forum, the 0331 head was the best flowing of all the HO castings due to more efficient port matching needed to meet the increased emission regulations. And by 2001 the cracking problems were corrected. I was going to use one but chickened out and used the 96-99 0630 head instead.

They do have it wrong. Seen this one? http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Transmission_and_Transfer_Case/Transmission_Throttle_Cable_Replacement.htm

From the 91-93 parts manual:

http://comancheclub.com/topic/11098-how-to-measure-ride-hight/

Yep, sure is. Looks like a dealer is trying to flip it for a slight profit, si? I don't think it's going to happen.

For a mere $19,950, it can be yours. :thumbsup: Go for it. :rotfl2: http://www.jordanmot...-TX/vd/13659679

Without the O2 sensor, you will stay in open loop meaning your computer will automatically default to a very rich mixture. You will get terrible gas mileage, less power, and fouled spark plugs at a minimum. Not recommended.

Sorry Charlie, I gave you the wrong part number for the HO throttle control cable (91 and up); I gave you the p/n for the accelerator cable. :doh: The correct p/n for the HO throttle control cable is 52077578 and it looks like the below, similar to the Renix cable but I don't know the length. I think you should measure the exact length of your cable, then go to a dealer who hopefully has both the 52077578 (HO) and 83503741 (Renix) cables in stock and compare.

Yep, that's what I meant, open to closed loop. Had them reversed. :doh: (Head Pounder) Change the O2 mate.

Jezus, not one period. reading thru yur post it's hard to figur out what ur saying bt if i read correctly it sounds lik yr not switching fm closed to open loop maybe try a new O2 sensor or check wiring for fries.

The Jeep (AMC) 4.2, 4.0, and 2.5 are all non-interference designs. However, the big Rotax single engine on my bike is not. Well, it is in stock form, but if you're running a high-lift cam and the timing belt breaks, you're in a world of hurts. It grenades real fast. :eek:

It might. Why not just lay it up there in position and post a pic or two?

That spammer is history. These clowns are getting tiresome. Keep reporting them guys. :yes:

What's that white/tan stuff growing in there Pete? Yeast? Fungi? Bird feces?

You think so? If I'm a seller and after some potential buyer inspects the vehicle, decides he wants it, then says "Oh, I have to go check with the wife, relative, or whatever" because he's not prepared to buy, I wouldn't be happy. Don't waste my time.