HOrnbrod

John Q, still have that cat? :yes:

Yep, attached to the frame with 1/2" OD nutserts. Once they start spinning you either have to drill or burn them out. Then to re-attach you have to tack weld nuts to the frame, maybe with a plate, which how the factory should have done it in the first place.

They have different part numbers (HO 52077578, Renix 83503741) so I'd say they are different Charlie.

He's in the Tri-cities (423 area code) and the phone number reverse lookup points to Bristol. I'll let you know if he returns my call. :thumbsup:

Area code 423. Bristol, TN

I hope you're not a college football fan. You won't get any satisfaction in TN. :yes: You should have relocated a bit further toward the southwest to the state that begins with an

It looks a bit rusty for a TN truck. Get the VIN, pay for a Carfax and see where it came from.

Obviously, if you made the measurements correctly, you have unequal caster R&L. These measurements assume that you are on level ground and your ball joints are in good shape. If mine, I would jack each wheel off the ground, put a 2x4 under each wheel, lift the wheel up and down vertically and check for play in the ball joints. It's good to have a helper for this. If no play, I'd shim out both LCAs equally then re-measure.

You have about 6* on the passenger's side (because of all the shims) and 3* on the drivers. Now shim both sides the same to get the angles as close to being equal as possible. You should get around 4*-5* on each side. EDIT: Are you on level ground?

Kind of like this. Use the top flat of the upper ball joint. Use a socket if the zerk fitting gets in the way.

I'm pretty sure they will as the axle flange bolt pattern for the D44 and non-c-clip D35 is the same.

I just had to look up Tabarnac. Hestie de câlisse de tabarnac! Have to remember that. Kind of rolls off the tongue nicely. :yes:

I've never had a vehicle with that much difference in caster shimming between the left and right sides. I think you should p/u an angle finder and measure caster on both sides to see what you have. Angle finders can be had anywhere, like here: http://www.lowes.com/pd_198122-1099-AF006M_0__?Ntt=angle+finder&UserSearch=angle+finder&productId=1057041&rpp=32 Once you measure, then we can commence with proper shimming. I don't have much faith in the idiot you originally brought your truck in for alignment.

Why are the passenger's side shim studs maxed out while the drivers side has plenty of room? Are the studs the same length on both sides? Do you have an equal thickness of shims on both sides? Also, have you figured out how to measure caster on both sides with an angle finder yet?

Put two more 4mm shims, one on each side, then check it again. If still low, two more until caster reads close to +5* on each side. Then I think you will be golden. No way should you need adj. LCAs with that small lift.

I agree - BUY IT! In the US parts for the Renault diesel are very hard to find, and expensive if you can. But in France, the home of Renault, it should be easy for you acquiring the 2.1 parts. :cheers: And post some pictures soon as you can.

http://tapcointernational.com/store/steering/mopar-j3236097r.html

:yes: Yes, the sun was pretty bright when I snapped that one.

That bumper isn't original. maybe you had one at one time, but it's been changed. Here's an original:

Back Space.

Am very interested in your findings. :thumbsup: Keep this updated mate. Datsun 510? Had one of those briefly years ago in between multiple Volvo 544s. Good little cars.

I love that idea Remi. You will never get that kind of power out of any Hesco stroker. I have a million questions like changes in weight and weight distribution, optimum gearing, suspension mods, drivetrain, etc. That would be a truly unique MJ.

If it looks like the below it's aftermarket, not original.

x3

Been all over the mainland wherever we had relations with the ADF but never made it to Tasmania. My bad, should have. Hopefully some day. Great looking build so far, redefines frame-off MJ resto.