HOrnbrod

He has an 89 2WD so I assume he's referring to the one-piece hub/rotor wheel bearings. If this is so, you'll need 2/ea of inner bearings, outer bearings, and seals. Make sure the bearings come with the races and to replace them too. I like the national bearings and seals from O'Reillys. Inner Bearings: Part Number A6 Outer bearings: Part Number: A2 Seals: Part Number 6815

The server is either down or is history. Probably the latter.

1988 2WD MJs and XJs are brake compatible and use the same front calipers, rotors, and pads.

That interior is just too damn pretty and comfortable looking for a trail rig. I could live in there. :thumbsup: Thanks for being a great CC member and sharing your expertise with all.

I just hide a spare key in a magnetic box. But I usually forget where I hid it..........

Jeesh Ben, you must be bored tonight.

Getting back to your original question: I use THESE and they fit the stock bumper housings okay.

:eek: :eek: Glad this thread helped you too Alex. Mine is pretty bad but not that bad.

Here's an excerpt from the 91-93 parts manual. MJ springs available as follows. But no other specs. I suppose there's a cross-reference somewhere. 8 SPRING, Front 5200 1107 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EF (#655) 5200 1108 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EG (#690) 5200 1109 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EH (#727) 5200 1110 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EJ (#765) 5200 1111 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EK (#806) 5200 1784 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EL 5200 1785 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EM 5200 1786 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EN 5200 1787 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded EP 5200 1788 AR MJ Light Duty, Coded ER 5200 1789 AR Standard Duty, Coded FL 5200 1114 AR Std. Duty, Coded FE (#607) 5200 1115 AR Std. Duty, Coded FF (#646) 5200 1116 AR Std. Duty, Coded FG (#688) 5200 1117 AR Std. Duty, Coded FH (#733) 5200 1118 AR Std. Duty, Coded FJ (#780) 5200 1119 AR Std. Duty, Coded FK (#831) 5200 1790 AR Std. Duty, Coded FM 5200 1791 AR Std. Duty, Coded FN 5200 1792 AR Std. Duty, Coded FP 5200 1120 AR H.D., Coded GD (#578) 5200 1122 AR H.D., Coded GF (#670) 5200 1121 AR H.D., Coded GE (#622) 5200 1123 AR H.D., Coded GG (#720) 5200 1124 AR H.D., Coded GH (#775) 5200 1125 AR H.D., Coded GJ (#834) 5200 1793 AR H.D., Coded GK

Hey Jeff, I'm a big zip tie fan for sure. With careful use, you can make any sloppy wiring job look good. Perfect. That's how I'll do. The factory wiring isn't even shielded (except by plastic) and goes right across the top of the manifold. But since I have some thermal tubing I'll shield it. Thanks Corry. :cheers:

Corry, I take that back. I have an 07 Wrangler PS pump with the 97 bracketry, and it would be very difficult to snake the O2 harness down the back of it. So if you could take a pic of the O2 harness routing when you get time I'd much appreciate it. It looks like I'll have to run it down between the intake manifold runners.

Thanks Corry, I believe I'm good to go now. :thumbsup:

Ah, that's the one I needed Alex. I just have one O2 sensor on the header. :bowdown: I was going to extend it and run it like that, and it's good to know that's how the factory did it for the upstream sensor. I do have thermal shielding and will wrap it too.

Can someone with one of these vehicles either snap a pic or describe the O2 harness routing from the top of the engine cable run down to the O2 sensors? I wired the harnes down through one of the spaces between the intake manifold runners and even though it shielded, the heat from the intake manifold is frying the wires. I have to redo it and would like to know how the factory ran the wiring around or through the manifold. Thanks!

Yeah Jay, I hear you brother. I've had my share of vehicle and marine fires in my time, and understand where you're coming from. We had plenty of ambushes with land mines in the Philippines in the 80's during the NPA Communist uprisings in the early 80's, once in an unarmored vehicle right in front of me. No fire extinguisher would have helped then. Remember Col Nick Rowe? He was one of many US casualties of this unpublised "skirmish". But stuff like that is a different thing that we're analyzing here. Excluding collisions and land mines, 99.9% (my guesstimate) of fires in an MJ originate in the engine compartment, mostly due to leaking fuel quick connectors on a hot manifold. Of course my first pri is to exit the vehicle if possible, but pop the hood before I do. In-cab extinguishers are good in certain conditions, out-of-cab locations can also be good. Best to have both.

I never considered that location, mainly because I didn't it would fit. Looks nice and snug in there. :thumbsup:

Is that a 5# extinguisher Mike?

I love big thumper 4-stroker bikes; BSAs, Triumphs, Ducatis, etc. Had a million of them. Here's my current, a custom German MZ with a 560cc Rotax dirt track engine. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Even some 2013 models have this problem. It depends on which cylinder head part numbers were used when assembling the engine. Symptoms are a ticking valve train noise, especially on the right side. Also blue smoke out the exhaust on cold morning startups. I'm not especially worried as we are under warranty except for the inconvenience. Also there is a reported shortage of new cylinder heads.

Thanks for reminding me about this. My JK's a late 2012. I'd heard about this and had forgotten to check the cylinder head numbers and Julian dates. Will do tomorrow.

No worries. It only gets worse.