HOrnbrod

That's normal.

Adding a vacuum gauge is on my to-do list. I have the gauge but still need to purchase a dual pod A-pillar gauge shell.

First clean the wire connector and the sensor stud (right rear of the cylinder head) and make sure it makes a good tight connection. If okay, pull the wire connector off the temp sensor and the gauge should deflect to LO (0*). Then short the wire to ground and the gauge should peg to HI. If it does, the wiring is temp gauge wiring should be good, and it's new temp sensor time.

Look up the factory part numbers in the appropriate part manual then do a search. http://www.alpinefurniturestore.com/JeepDocumentation/jeeps.html

Which NGKs? The standard FR5-1 plugs?

Can't kill them fast if they are not reported fast. If not killed, they can multiply like roaches. Good job by everyone reporting the bastids. :cheers:

Work?? :yes: Retired USN, retired CS spy.

No more fried O2 harness. Thermal shielding and cable clamps underneath. Thanks again for the pics Corry and Alex. :cheers:

You don't need no steenking dealer for these. Get them here (and elsewhere, search the part number): http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Performance/312/P4120074/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710617200&catargetid=1784155608&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CKnv8oCe7rUCFbOoPAodxzEAiw

I believe it about Champions being "offshore" manufactured now. But what isn't? I've always used Champions but am willing to switch if something works better. But it would have to be a simple copper core type plug, not a gadget plug. Recommendations?

No, course not. :thumbsup: It's just real simple to not re-engineer something like this when it's real easy mimic how the factory did it. Sometimes the factory gets it right (not always) but in this case it's a solid and improved setup with the new manifold using the power steering parts it was made for. That being said, I was hard-headed to make the new manifold work with the original early HO (and Renix) PS pump bracketry, and I did. Lots of machining, close tolerances, but it did work fine. But it was a major PITA to do and not worth the effort. Pics: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Went back to the yard and picked up the better engineered 96+ pump bracketry, idler pulley, and a new WJ 04 pump for it's increased pressure to compliment the newly installed ZJ quick ratio box. However, if you have a "a very fast and dirty solution", would love to see it.

Whatever.

Use the 97 and up power steering bracket, delete the existing idler pulley, then get the 97-01 belt and route it as in this thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/31174-manifold-upgrade-vs-serpentine-belt/?hl=belt+routing&do=findComment&comment=315028

That's dayem good Jim. No regulatory fee or sales tax?

I use propane (LPG) for aux residential heating in the house and to heat the garage. Got the tank filled today and it was $2.459/gal; after taxes and fees it came to $2.60/gal. Just curious what all you guys are paying in your area.

I don't think that front diff could go over a medium sized speed bump w/o dragging. I'd slightly like it better if it were not a 92.

http://www.autoguide.com/manufacturer/jeep/2014-jeep-grand-cherokee-diesel-review-2457.html I Likey!

Alex Tech = Alexandria Technical & Community College?

HERE And waste $$ and labor too. Double :doh:

I had a code 14 for awhile (input voltage was 5.1V) but a new GM MAP sensor, not aftermarket, got rid of that code. I've never had a code 13 though. You have probably done this already, but how are the MAP output voltages while running, and did you check for continuity between the MAP output connector wire and the ECU pin?

Also, what's your MAP input voltage reading? As referenced to the MAP sensor ground pin, not chassis ground.

I'm referring to the front 2WD disk brakes only, not the rear drum brakes or rear D35 axle bearings. Front brakes provide about 80% of your total braking. Do these first, calipers, pads, bearings, races, and seals. If the rotor surface is scored, bring them O'Reillys and have them turned true. If they are worn too much and can not be turned, you might have to replace them also. If you have a micrometer, you can measure the thickness yourself; if not O'Reillys, or wherever you get your parts from can do this.

Pete, what size are they? Or did I miss it?