HOrnbrod

I guess you are clueless regarding single cylinder dirt track........

It's called cathodic protection and is also used for protecting underground fuel tank farms; that was the primary reason for it's development. The sacrificial zinc anode rod beds are placed at strategic locations throughout the farm, are charged with rectifiers, and are positively charged with positive DC current flow. The sacrificial anode beds are monitored for deterioration as the current flow increases as the anodes deteriorate. When the current reaches a certain high, the zinc anodes must be replaced to continue corrosion protection for the metallic tanks. Cathodic protection works well on underground tanks and ships/boats because they have highly conductive ground planes, but not so good on vehicles because they do not. Read rubber tires. And because of the low mass of a zinc paint coating, the little protection doesn't last long unless constantly renewed (repainted). However it sure doesn't do any harm, and is a good thing to do, especially in the rust belt.

:agree: When I rebuilt my Austrian Rotax motorcycle 500cc engine last year, the cylinder head bolted to the jug with no gasket or sealant, according to the Rotax manual. I had never seen this before, so called a guy out in Cali who does nothing but built up Rotax thumpers for dirt track racing, and he confirmed it. The machined surfaces were so true they didn't need a gasket even with all that compression. These lightweight built engines go for upwards of $4K/ea and can put out over 80 HP. :eek: Not mine though, it's about half that to keep it streetable.

Plenty of local blokes have also offered to take it off my hands. And you're too far off mate; shipping would be a killer. :yes:

CAD disconnect solenoid.

You could always swap your wheels out with some 15" 70's-80's Ford steel wheels. I know baby moons will fit on them. The bolt pattern is the same and B/S is real close.

Wisconsin. Pat?

Yes, that's a problem with cowl-type hoods. I just leave the right wiper arm off most of the time.

I blacked out the all-chrome grille slots w. semi-gloss black (rad too) because it was too much. It toned it down enough to support the chrome bumper I think. The Euro amber parking lights help too. This would pop with a black hood. If I ever repaint mine it will be black. :yes:

I'm a lot closer Jim. Alex, if you deliver, you can buy me a hamburger.

Mine came out pretty easily with the Benz metric plug tool. Soaked it overnight with PB, had to tap in the tool and use a short cheater, but it came out. It's 3/8" NPT, so if you do get it out you can replace with a more conventional plug. I only pulled it once, and as I remember no crud came out that you couldn't get out easier via the lower radiator hose and flushing from above w/ the stat removed.

EDIT: The one on my 91 is a recessed 12mm 8mm plug. I have a combination metric plug tool that I used on Benz's that fits it fine. You can also get a socket or grind down a 1/2" 3/8" ratchet extension. If you get it out be sure to use anti-seize when re-installing. I went and looked. Haven't pulled it in years............

Yes, you're right, it was not ordinary, bad choice of words. But I can remember many times digging out of snow that had drifted over the house and having to go to school through the woods on cross-country skis or snowshoes. Couldn't do that anymore. This was many many years ago in Burlington, VT. My grandparents lived in Pittsfield, not too far from you. Spent most summers there fishing with my Grandpa on the Suncook River. Beautiful country. Glad you have power now.

Great. So what size were they?

Yes they do. But this one was the worst storms in a few years, the media must have had a slow week and dramatized it a bit over the top. I grew up in New England and when I was a kid and this was pretty ordinary. It's a great place to grow up, but now that I know better I'd never live there again. :yes: Except in the summer.

OP, Correy has a lot more real world experience than I with the 2.5. I'd listen to him. :yes:

Here's how I did it: Looked up the p/n's for the 87 2.5 starter bolts (they were not the same), then crossed them into the 97 and up parts manual for the 2.5 because the newer manuals give the bolt specs. The p/n's matched, and those were the specs for the two bolts. Also it stated the 4.0 and 2.5 used the same starter bolts. :hmm: That's what I got.

One SAE, one metric: 3/8x16x1-3/4" and M10x1.5x28

Forget the vents Bo, she's too pretty now. :cheers: It could use a chrome bumper though..........

So the HB rubbing against the timing cover grooved it out? Is the H20 pump okay then? Which HB are you going with, a new OEM or after market? If OEM, be sure to remove the oil slinger inside the timing cover or it won't go all the way on.

So this is a classified ad?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/37243-1990-sportruck-1300-mn/

It also looks like these kits are for axle tubes 3" dia. and up; too large for our 2-3/4" tubes.

I'm one of the few Gary. When I saw one (an 87 in print w. the 4.0L) and read the specs I loved it. Unfortunately I was in an overseas locale where they were made out of unobtanium. Since we were limited to a single personal vehicle, I satisfied myself by driving gov XJs and a few personal XJs when I could and enjoyed the hell out of out climbing, out accelerating, and generally out performing the various Toy J-series junk, the mountain king at the time, and other Asian stuff. The only vehicle that came close was a Daewoo Korando, pictured below, that was a CJ copy. It took quite a few years before getting back, and the first Stateside vehicle purchase was the one I have now. And will always have.

I had to replace the center pins in my springs awhile back, they were 5/16" and eventually broke. So I ordered larger 3/8" pins with a 9/16" head. Drilled out the perches for 9/16" and the head fit tight and right. If the round head is 9/16" that means it fits in a 9/16" hole. Like to fit a 1/2" bolt you drill a 1/2" hole.