HOrnbrod

Yes. I like the 5-153X greasable ones best.

It's a programmable RF transmitter built into the mirror that's used to open compatible receiver equipped garage doors openers, lighting, gates, electrical receptacles; all kinds of stuff. I use it mainly to open the garage doors, turn on the lighting, and crank up the coffee pot or whatever I plug in. Supports rolling codes too. :thumbsup:

:agree: That...is.

1993 when they replaced the fuel pump. I'm keeping my ballast resistor. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1993/14-14-93b.htm

This is very nice little upgrade. I have personally done it with great success. What's even better is the lighted mirror with Homelink. :thumbsup:

After May-20-91 to be exact. :thumbsup:

You are correct. The OME N40L ZJ shock did fit the rear of an MJ perfectly but they were discontinued. I don't know if OME even makes a shock that can be used for the MJ rears now. No problem on the fronts.

We only made it to 60* today, tomorrow is forecast to be warmer. Gogmorgo, your ice fishing pic brought back a lot of good memories. I grew up in upstate VT on Lake Champlain and spend many winters ice fishing there. Actually learned how to drive on the ice in my grandfathers old Chevy. Good times catching the occasional humongous northern pike through the ice. :cheers:

Yes. OME coils up front, and OME shocks all around. I ran this setup for years with MT rear leafs and a 3" lift and it was perfect. When one of the OME rear shocks bit the dust after five years, and the rear OME shocks were discontinued, I switched to Bilsteins. I'm missing the OME shocks.

Great. If you need anything else while in progress on the 91's, just let me know.

On the way Brett. I didn't see any 2.5L or 4.0-specific pin outs. There are XJ-MJ diffs of course. BTW, the 91 bulkhead connector is a one-of a-kind HO animal and was changed completely in 1992.

I have the hard copy FSMs. I don't have a scanner, but I could snap a couple of hi-res pics and email to you.

Are you referring to the firewall bulkhead connector? If so, the pin outs are shown on Wiring Diagrams 101 & 102 in the 91 Electrical FSM (pgs. 8W-252 & 8W-253).

Spelled "Eat $#!&." wrong too.

Yep, I'd like to see a location pic also. Have never been able find this dash grounding connection on my 91. Figured it might be a Renix thing that was corrected when the HOs came out, as so many things were. Do you have to pull off the kick panel to see it?

Yes, I noticed that when we moved my daughter after college. That's a vacuum gauge for sure. In the 70s and 80s many cars had econometers, even the AMC Matadors. Autometer even makes one today calling an Ecometer. :ack:

Wasn't saying i completely believe it, Just wanted more info. What do you mean by "Slowing the open to closed loop transition" Whoops - typo. Meant SHOWING the open to closed loop transition. :thumbsup:

Don't believe everything you read, it's more than a light show. Granted the wide band A/F meter is more exact and easier to read, but at 4X the cost and requiring the extra O2 bung, the narrow band A/F meter does all I need. In addition to showing the open to closed loop transition, it's useful for monitoring lean and rich conditions. But you must know what you are looking at to interpret it correctly. Quoted from Dino's Stroker site: The lean range is 0.050v-0.249v (four red LED's), the stoich range is 0.250v-0.749v (ten yellow LED's), and the rich range is 0.750v-1.000v (six green LED's). At idle and light throttle cruise, the gauge should fluctuate across the stoich range. Under WOT acceleration, it should be two to three LED's inside the rich zone (0.80-0.85v), while under hard deceleration the gauge should show full lean or even go off the scale altogether. Until I read this, I didn't know what I was looking at and didn't know the ideal (stoich) range during normal ops. It does work. .

Did you buy the wideband O2 sensor? Or just tap into the stock? Seems like a good idea, But $40 for the plastic pillar ; $200~ for a wideband sensor ; $50~ for a A/F gauge seems like a bit much to save just a few more mpg. Meant to edit instead of double posting, My bad. Agree, too expensive. I used a narrow band Autometer A/F gauge and just tapped into the existing O2 sensor output to the ECU. It tells me all I need to know.

If you want to wait to install the skid later that's fine, but do install the six required nutserts in the frame while the tank is down. It makes it much easier. You'll need eight nutserts (2 spares) and an installation tool. I got mine here: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/nutserts.php?clickkey=452176 You will need: 8 (includes 2 spares) - NUTSERTS, 5/16-24 UNC, 1/2" DIA, # ATS2-524, $1.76/ea 1 - NUTSERT INSTALLATION TOOL, 5/16-24 UNC, # AAT-916-524, $9.50 Hold the skid up in place and mark the six existing 1/2" frame mounting holes. The e-brake bracket mounting holes do not need nutserts; I just used 5/16" bolts and nuts. Ream the 1/2" frame holes out lightly with a 1/2" Unibit to clean them out, then install the nutserts. The tool comes with instructions for installation, it's pretty easy. When you get around to installing the skid, you'll have to pull the drive shaft for mounting clearance, and remove the plastic gravel shield on the tank.

The long bed tank fuel skid can be tricky to mount if your truck never had one originally. Shoot me a PM if you have any questions when you're ready. :thumbsup:

It fits perfectly on MJ/XJ up to 1996; they are model specific. Not so perfectly on 97 and up XJs as the A-pillar plastic contour changed slightly. No personal experience with these models though.

Autometer makes them. #15210 for single gauge, #15211 for dual gauges. Amazon, Jegs, Amazon, lots of places carry them.

Solution: If it's so bad for you here on CC, I'd suggest you don't post here anymore and try to peddle your stuff somewhere else. Problem solved. :thumbsup:

Autometer Air/Fuel meter. better than a vacuum gauge for monitoring fuel consumption.