HOrnbrod

The distributor rotates cw so rotating the shaft one tooth cw would advance the timing.

Check for spark at your ignition coil output HV wire. If none, check for 12V at the ignition coil connector (key ON). Also make sure you didn't inadvertently unplug the distributor connector.

...and never wear flip-flops while you work around the catalytic converter after a couple cocktails...when it's hot...and you're in a hurry... :yes:

:agree: Yah, that. ^^^^

:thumbsup: Another one of life's annoying little snags conquered.

I just upgraded to version 20; all I lost was the spell checker. I had to reload the US English dictionary and all is working fine. What version are you on Pete?

Probably rotten, clogged, or disconnected vacuum hoses on your evap cannister. It can smell like exhaust and/or fuel. The cannister is located on the right firewall, engine compartment.

Yeah, but would you Alex? I had to leave vehicles behind several times during deployments for six months up to a year and it's not much trouble to do it right.

Change the oil, disconnect the battery, fill up the gas tank fresh, use Stabil recommended dosage x2, and put some rat/mice poison/traps underneath.

I WANT THOSE SEATS! Oh, and the rest looks great too. :cheers:

Check to see if the plug wires are in the correct location and rotation first. As careful as I marked everything putting the new dizzy in, I was off one tooth. It wouldn't start. Had to yank it back out and rotate it back one tooth ccw. Course, you may need to go the other way. But check the HV wires first.

When you think you have cured the fault code, it's best to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to clear the code(s), then check it about 50 miles later to make sure it doesn't reappear.

Glad to hear it's running well again. It should smooth out in a few miles after the ECU relearns it's new inputs. Did you have your battery disconnected when you changed the dizzy? If so, he code 54 should be gone and hopefully stay gone. Mine did. :thumbsup:

2WD LWB w. AW4 = 60" length u-joint to u-joint.

I think it was a Tiger Trans bus, so the university? I don't know if the city has its own transit system Probably Tiger Trans. My niece graduated from Auburn last year and had plenty of horror stories regarding them. She said all the driver s are named Bubba 1, 2, 3, and so on. Glad your Sis is okay.

The city of Auburn has a public transit system? Or the university?

That's the silver/chrome Laredo dash bezel. They also made an all silver one, and a silver/black one.

Good point. :thumbsup:

:agree: If that's all you can find wrong with an MJ it's pretty lame. I like the MJ interior better than I do my 2012 JK, and it has everything, most of which I don't need. If you can't stand being w/o power windows/locks/mirrors/seats/antenna or cruise or whatever, simply install them yourself. It's an easy vehicle to work on and accessories like these are pretty simple to wire in. And I are not even an engineer. :yes:

Load sensing valve can't cause drag. Jack it up by the pumpkin and try to rotate the wheels. They should turn freely with just a little drag on the brake shoes. The e-brake could be rusted nearly shut also. You can't tell anything by looking at it.

Man, ths is a hell of a game so far. Back and forth between the Wolverines and Cards. Half time now - it's anybody's game. Whoever wants it more............

For a 2" - 3" lifted MJ, the ideal shock travel using Bilsteins or OMEs is 14.98 - 24.61" (Front) and 15.6"-25.8" (Rear). So I'd say the fronts are fine, the rears maybe a tad short.

Better to move the washer tank into the left inner fender by using the 1997 and up tank. Frees up a lot of space. Also that custom air intake looks like it's sucking hotter engine bay air than the stock air box to me.

I've seen this and sent emails to the seller that they are not for MJs. He answers, always says thanks, then never changes the description. :dunno:

Welcome. :cheers: Yes, this setup should work fine using an ignition switched solenoid so the second battery only receives charging amps from the alt when the engine is started and running. However, if the second battery is nearly discharged nearly ALL the charging amps from the alt will go initially to the weakest battery until they equalize. So just make sure the deep cycle trolling motor battery isn't completely dead. A solar trickle charger wired in parallel to the second battery would help prevent this.