HOrnbrod

If the bleeder screw is on top, the calipers are correct. Gotta ask: What did you use for the distribution block? Since you eliminated the MJ load sensing proporioning valve and assuming it is plumbed correctly, did you retain the original MJ distribution block, or swap in an XJ block with the proportioning valve?

From the parts manual: J8128931, 4, MJ, SOCKET, Tail/Stop/Turn Source: Quadratec, $13.99/ea http://www.quadratec.com/products/55206%2050.htm From the parts manual: 83502744, 2, MJ, SOCKET, Back-Up Lamp Could not find a source, but you can modify the above socket to work fine

Too long for me.

Yes the 92 and up XJ/MJ end links are about 8" long and work well up to a 3" lift. They pull the sway bar about 1/2" away from the coil springs. I'm also fabbing a pair of 1" sway bar drop brackets to get the sway bar arm angle a little closer to what it should be (10*-20* up from horizontal). Will post up some pics when done.

If it were me with a Renix, I'd replace the switch with the 91+ type and wire it in. You could p/u the switch and bracket from any XJ at the yard. It also saves you from having to do that precise grinding for the switch contact flat spot using the old switch. I know Mjeff and several others used the new switch on their rigs; maybe they will chime in.

Topic moved to the Tech forum from the DIY project writeups (Common MJ projects with lots of pictures) since there are no pics and it has not been completed - yet. It's an interesting topic, and if someone does complete this project, be sure to write it up and post in the DIY forum (with lots of pics).

I've never had a new rad cap cause any effect, good or bad.

If and when you remove it, don't forget to plug the vacuum line to the heater valve.

Careful, Don. We don't know how much of a betting man f-cracker1 really is. Don't let him take you up on that bet and leave him with none and you with an awkward three... really, who has room for that. Now that's a bet I hope I don't lose. Or win either.........

Now that that ftpiercecracker1's left nut is gone ( :yes: ), RIP, it has the body side molding, dash bezel, interior, chrome trim, and most importantly, the Laredo fender badge. It should have chrome bumpers too. Of course all that stuff could have been added, but I don't think so. It's a Laredo, I'd bet my left nut. The VIN will tell for sure.

:yes: And mated to the T18 four speed. Well, they did have a low ratio granny 1st gear.

35" tires with 2.73 gears? I realize some AMC-20's had 2.73's with the stock tires, but if that's what it has with 35" tires it's really wrong.

I think he meant 3.73 gear ratio, not 2.73. :yes: Nice, but I'd ditch the Bushwackoffs.

Nope. PW &PL were not standard in any trim package. Expensive optional only.

That's a factory Laredo too Jim. Pretty rare. Most of them had the towing package, D44, etc.

Yes, it will work just fine. I might just try a pair myself. the rear Bilsteins I have on now are too stiff.

Travel for this shock is: Extended Length = 23.375" Compressed Length = 14.000" That's about perfect for rear MJ shocks with a 1"-3" lift.

Looking good. It looks like you have the newer style windshield wipers installed, si?

:bowdown:

Hornbird? :yes: Been called worse. Got a link for the HO CPS, but not for a Renix .

Mopar.

Follow the RED arrow:

Mine did this when I had a partially clogged cat. Now I don't have a cat. But for you, no-can-do in Cali.

Oops - guess I did. :hmm: If so, sorry, it was unintentional. And no one no way is suggesting to the original poster that he should continue as he is; it is completely fubar. I just need a couple of end links a bit longer than the stock ones I have now so the sway bar arm ends will be parallel with the ground at rest. The Ford links will work just fine for this.