HOrnbrod

That rubber chicken is impeding airflow Sam.

Thanks Jim. Just forwarded the Youtube link to my daughter on active duty.

Keep it stock.

Damn mnkyboy you do good work. That cage looks awesome, and I never say awesome. :drool: :drool: :drool:

:yes: :clapping:

Des-O-Lation Maximus. But I do see some aerial power lines in the background. :yes:

On my rig, I discovered the clogged cat when we were installing a dual exhaust system at my friends muffler shop. My rig still had the original engine then. The outlet looked fine as you describe, but the input was clogged with a black sticky substance nearly blocking flow completely. My friend said he had seen it quite a bit on Jeep I6 engines. So the only way you can really tell is to cut it off and look into the inlet - that's where the clogging will start first.

Are you running the Renix system or Chrysler HO w. the 94 engine?

If the fan is from an 01 XJ, it's a single speed (two wires). XJs never had a 2-speed fan.

A master cylinder can be bad w/o showing fluid loss. Instead of shelling out $$ for a new master, throw a rebuild kit in it like this: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1181584,parttype,1840,a,www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BBrake%252FWheel%2BHub%2BMaster%2BCylinder%2BRepair%2BKit%2BWAGNER

There is only one part that is under my vehicle, or donor vehicle, and it is called a "oil pressure switch" and I was under the impression I needed a sensor. Is this in fact the right part? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1989-Jeep-Comanche-2WD/Oil-Pressure-Switch/_/N-ihexuZ8znc6?filterByKeyWord=oil+pressure&fromString=search Yes, that part (PS133) is correct for the MJ/XJ oil pressure gauge.

By from the clown on Ebay advertising XJ tail lamps as fitting MJs?

Which ones? All red, silver highlights, black highlights, R, L, etc.?

Me too. Everything went north of us this time, just some flooding here, and while you always breathe a sigh of relief, you really feel for the good folks that got hit. April is a tough month for tornadoes; be glad when it's over.

My suggestion is to buy a decent flaring tool for $20 or so and do it right. You're going to need it again and again down the road.

I swapped in a ZJ steering gear box and it helped a lot with the wide turning radius on my LWB. Not only is the ZJ box a quicker steering ratio, but the internal stops allow a bit more turns lock-to-lock. And the WJ LCAs prevent any tire rubbing.

If you had a clogged cat, it would show up first by running hot, especially going up long grades.

There is no signal generated to the ECU or anywhere else from the exhaust system except by the O2 sensor. A "test" pipe is legal for troubleshooting problems in most all states, even with those with emission regs for our plus 20 year old year vehicles. Some states require the pipe be installed by a state certified shop for a limited time frame. Since you are not in one of those states, suggest you do it yourself "for testing purposes only". Like the below: Image Not Found

Good old Mom and Pop power company in my area, the only game in town, dropped the ball again as usual. Their policy is to never clear dead trees along the power lines until they fall on the lines, kill power, and create O/T pay for the local Bubbas. About seven hours ago, a huge dead oak tree way too close to a substation fell, blowing it up, and killing power to a seven square mile grid. I am on that grid. After six hours, after being told that "maybe by morning" the power will be up, I rolled out my old 7Kw generator, powered by a pull-start 7HP Subaru - Robin industrial engine. I had not started this engine for over two years (wrong, I know) since the tornadoes came through here in April 2011 and killed power for two weeks. I'm not going to say it started on the first pull, but on the second pull with the old stale gas and all, it farted, coughed, barfed, fired up, then smoothed out in about two minutes. Freaking amazing. Been on it now for over four hours and all is well. I've been through lots of generators overseas powered by Briggs & Stratton, Honda, and other engines, but never had a more reliable or forgiving power plant than this Subaru generator. If you're shopping for a home backup generator, consider one that's Subaru - Robin powered.

Looks like the 89's w. the AW4 were the first Renix models to get a speed sensor (VSS). It's only used to control the tranny shifting points on the Renix system. On the HOs it also provides an input to the ECU.

That's great Alex. :cheers: With as many major mods you have done in this build there will be some minor debugging time ahead, but of course you know that. Congrats maximus.

I have - no joy - unobtanium pieces from Mopar. I had an S10, the older square body 1993 and below, and they had what looked exactly like the same wedges IIRC.

The 91 fuel gauge will not mount in a Renix cluster; completely different circuit board and mounting points. HO Fuel Gauge Renix Fuel Gauge

You say you have a 91. That's a Chrysler HO. Mine is an 87 Renix. Will the sending unit wiring match? No, the sending units are different and send a different polarity signal output to the fuel gauge, but both the 87 and 91 4.0 MJs use the same Bosch fuel pump from the factory.

Good thinking. :cheers: I'd be doing the same thing but my original rubber tailgate bumpers are still hanging in there. Another thing you can do to quiet down the tailgate linkage rattling inside is to cover them with some 1" ID heat shrink tubing - keeps it real quiet in there. Black and red were the only colors I had on hand at the time.