HOrnbrod

I just had to do this on my 91; had the same code causing random engine cutouts. It's a PITA to change the sync sensor on the 91 distributor. You have to pull it out, take it all apart, punch the drive gear pin out, remove the gear and shaft to remove the sync sensor. On the newer HO distributors (94 and up) you can change the sync sensor w/o removing the distributor; it's all there right under the rotor. The newer one swaps right in too. I put a new 94 distributor in and took my time rebuilding the old one as a spare. It might be the easier way to go for you.

Have you seen this? Should help. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm

I went through a similar vibe problem; mild vibes ON at 40MPH, OFF at 55MPH. After doing all you have done and more, turned out to be a bad u-joint at the slip yoke. Might as well replace them both, they are probably due. And yes, the vibes felt like they were coming from the front end also.

Chrysler started using these switches in 1994 on their 5.2 and 5.9 V8s w. manual trannies, but the Jeeps didn't get them until 1997 on the 4.0 and 2.5. Before that no Jeeps had them from the factory. Why don't you go back to that inspector and have his supervisor show you where the switch is on your 86. :yes:

Good idea on the 4.0 rod cap for the bushing bracket "ear" spacer. :thumbsup:

I just extended the positive and negative leads from both washer pump motors from the fender well up into the engine compartment, then spliced one motor to the original washer pump motor leads, observing polarity of course. I used weatherpack connectors for the pump wires for easier swapping in case the pump in use goes belly-up. Similarly extend the low level indicator wiring if equipped, and the two fluid lines (cap one off).

Good point and clarification for the Renix. :thumbsup: My rig uses an HO block, so the 99+ belt (Dayco 5060950 or equivalent) worked perfectly for me.

Because it's not correct for 91-95 Jeep OBDI. Who knows where that list came from?

The stock belt for a 99-01 XJ with similar equipment (4.0 w. A/C, PS) is the correct belt since that's what it is now.

Belt routing for those with the 1999+ intake manifold and 1997+ power steering pump and bracketry

How do they ride, and which shocks did you end up using?

The HOs use ground switching and the Renix B+ switching to energize the E-fan. OP, this thread should help you check out the fan coolant circuit. Look at the schematic. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36031-cooling-fan-relay/?hl=switched&do=findComment&comment=360557

If all your other new flares are not leaking, then I'd say that's a good possibility.

You should have the 7120 casting (91-95 models).

Are you using a flare wrench to sock that nut down tight?

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I'm here Cruise-man. :yes:

http://comancheclub.com/topic/20447-camper-sheltopper-fitment/ The 93 and below S10 toppers fit the closest to the real thing. But as stated, they are not tall enough and the cab angle is different. It just doesn't look right.

Pretty lame Jim.

Robert Stack, aka as Eliot Ness in the Untouchables, one of my all time favorite actors. They don't make em like that anymore. Don't forget the 3.7L Chrysler slant six. It rivaled the 4.0 in reliability and durability, and blew it away when it came to HP in built I6 engines.

You used a 98 Master so IDK. I just matched the flares from the old lines into each new line. When working with flare nuts, it's a good idea to use flare wrenches to torque them down. They grip on four sides too so less chance of cracking/stripping it.

:yes: No, I'll just break out the Dremel and polish her up a bit.

I don't like reusing old brake lines except for emergency. The easiest way is to pull the new (used 96 XJ) master cylinder with the lines, pull off the old lines from the existing distribution block, then bend new 3/16" lines from the master to the block reusing the existing brake line fittings. All double flared. Cake. Hmm, I think my master cylinder has developed skin cancer.

The LCAs, UCAs and associated bushings are the same for both 2WD and 4WD. The Moog K3128 is a kit of two bushings for the UCA, is correct, and is what I used on my 2WD. :thumbsup: Also, I highly recommend installing WJ LCAs instead of just changing bushings in the old ones, especially on a mainly street truck. They are full tubular, much more solid, and make a world of difference in handling as the bushings are larger.

You are correct on both counts. Now I'll correct my original post. :yes: Do you have any lift at all up front?