HOrnbrod

There is really no reason to purchase the wrong brake parts (or any other part); all you need is the correct parts catalog for your MJ. These are available for free online download online in lots of places (two are linked below). Just look up your year, whether 2WD or 4WD, and order them using the Chrysler or AMC factory part numbers. Most every online vendor allows searching for parts using the manufacturer's part numbers. In rare cases your will need to know your build date. For example the front brake rotors for the 2WD models were changed on Feb. 10, 1992. If you depend on some parts drone to look up part numbers for you, that's asking for trouble. https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=c40904cfda278a46&id=C40904CFDA278A46!115 http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/

^^ Agree. Also use a little brake grease on the notches that the pads ride on, the rear face of the pads, and the brake caliper pins on so they can slide w/o binding. Did you use "loaded" calipers with the pads already installed? If not, make sure the inboard and outboard brake bads are installed correctly as they are not interchangeable, and of course the new calipers must be installed with the bleed screw UP.

Not the same. The 2057 is a dual filament bulb; the 1156 is a single filament. Not interchangeable at all. Image Not Found Image Not Found

I bought a 96 new, and it had a working OBD2 scan port. It was toward the end of the model year though. The 96's are weird; an example is the MAP sensor. It is throttle body mounted, but the outputs to the ECU are the same as the OBD1 MAPs. The 97 and up MAPs are also throttle body mounted, but the outputs are completely different.

Below is the blower circuit schematic. There is a thermal fuse in the middle of the resistor. When this opens due to excess heat, you can see the only 12V path to the motor is when the switch is in the HI position.

J3741260. Available at Lambert Chrysler Jeep Dodge, Claremont, NH.

Wimp.

15 is an OBD1 fault code. I thought you had a 96? 15, Speed sensor or circuit. No signal detected from speed sensor. Check circuit and sensor.

HOA covenants. :nuts: Couldn't handle that...........

Yeah, moccasins are the problem here on the lake, especially this time of the year when they can get aggressive. Gus, my fearless but aging Cocker Spaniel, still alerts me when one is present in the backyard and has sense enough now not to attack it as he used to do. Mr. 9mm or the olde 22 single shot, whichever is handy, dispatches the bastid quickly and they become instant turtle food off the end of the pier.

Bad advice. Your 1996 XJ is an OBD2 system - no key flashes as in 95 and below OBD1 systems. Since I'm sure you do not have a code reader to plug into the onboard connector, bring it to Autozone or similar and have them check the fault code. They will translate the fault code for you, then go from there.

Welcome back Eagle. Glad you are home and the ordeal is over - now it's just recovery time. PITA I'm sure, but it will all be worth it down the road. Looking forward to seeing you in the Boston marathon next year. :cheers:

Lol. You posted that pic in another thread a year or so ago regarding the AW4 90* vent fitting.

The plastic hose adapter should be just a press fit into the frame hole, similar to the below: Blurry picture courtesy of Jimoshel :yes:

Is there an echo in here?

The rubber hose going up to the frame is the axle vent - it relieves axle pressure. Carefully pull the plastic hose adapter out of the frame blow through it; make sure it's clear all the way through. If it's clogged you will probably leak diff fluid out the axle seals.

Echo: Honestly, at first I wasn't too crazy about a green '92 long bed getting turned into a trail rig.... I still am. I too agree the workmanship is outstanding and for that an MJOTM is justified. I also admire you stating up front your master plan for your rare 92, and you have done that very well. Can not help being a bit sad about it though.

Your whole point is wrong. You do some research - if no A/C option was selected - NO electric fan included with the 4.0. I'm sure there were exceptions available from the dealership as there always are, but here is an excerpt from the 1988 MJ factory spec sheet stating the A/C option content. That's why it's called an auxiliary electric fan - not standard equipment on all 4.0 MJ models.

The stroker I have has a 9:1 compression ratio due to a slightly decked head and mild cam. It will ping under load on 87 octane fuel, like climbing a long grade under power, so I use at least 91 octane always. But for a N/A 4.0, anything higher than 87 octane is wasting $$.

Check the servo vacuum hose (right fender well) all the way to the reservoir behind the right bumper. The old plastic hose tends to crack over time. Mine did..........

Come on down to Marshall county. You live a whole lot better for a whole lot less with no pi$$ant megalomaniacs bothering you.

What were the readings on their printout? How about the LCA L & R shim balance? Going to have to see if I can find the bill tomorrow, if not ill see if I can get it faxed over Then how do you know "they got everything aligned perfect"? Since you state there is no play anywhere except a bit in the column and everything is tight, all the videos don't mean squat if you don't know what your front end geometry is mate. Especially since it ran true up to 65 with the smaller wheel/tire combo you tried.

What were the readings on their printout? How about the LCA L & R shim balance?

They were optional and called "low profile" mirrors, although I have no idea why. Unless they were placed the lower than the other types.......

This yoke works fine w. the 231 and 242 cases, but am not sure of the output shaft spline count on the 207. Did not notice you had an 86. Since the drive shaft is out, count the internal splines on the yoke.