HOrnbrod

Here's a list of various temp switches categorized by degree ON/OFF, thread type, and electrical connector type. Take your pick for your application. http://www.airtexve.com/custom_searches/ds_fans.php?showall=yes

I like, especially the price. Are these 120VAC supply only? My garage lighting is wired for 220VAC.

See the below. 1/4x20 rod and ball ends will work fine too.

That sounds like a plan. While you're at it, you should also upgrade the mains cables. You can't beat these from Jon Kelly: http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/electric.html

https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?cid=C40904CFDA278A46&resid=C40904CFDA278A46!140&app=WordPdf

That is the thing..I didn't grind anything. Not too much not too little not at all. Weird, huh? Referring to the 91 in your signature? No grinding is required for the HO switch activation.

Yep, I think that's your best option to get more juice out of your Delco. Back in the day that was the first option: bring your tired generator, alt or starter to a reliable local shop and have them rebuilt and rewound. Today it's cheaper to pick up an offshore "remanufactured" POS from one of the chain auto parts store that dies usually in the first year. As a result the good local shops have mostly gone under.

It's been done on Renix stuff, but it's more difficult. You would need the alternator bracketry from an HO and an external regulator. On the HOs the Denso alts are regulated by the ECU.

For the 4.0 HOs it is basically PnP. Even though some claim they had to do a little grinding on the alt brackets I didn't have to. It was tight going in and took a little while, but it fit. Also you have to reclock the plastic cable guide on the back - easy, and the existing pulley has seven ribs. You can either replace the pulley with a six rib version, or use the existing seven rib pulley and align the belt toward the rear like I did. I have been running this alternator for years with no problems. Don't know how it would fit in the 2.5 engine though. :dunno:

This one.

Your alternator should put out 13.5V - 14.5V across the battery terminals, depending on the battery charge condition and applied load. As long as there is no major dimming of the headlamps at idle or slow starting engine turnover, I wouldn't be worried about the voltmeter bouncing between 11V and 13V. My 91 has done that since I've had it in spite of new mains cables, beefed up grounds including the instrument cluster, and a 134A alternator. I think it's because of the voltmeter's sensing point, a know problem on OBD1 systems.

This makes sense, but I'd do a complete PS system flush and fluid change first.

If all the above doesn't help disconnect / remove your steering stabilizer. If it's still the original it may be dry and binding and will cause a "touchy" condition.

Two sweet trucks actually. http://comancheclub.com/page/articles.html/_/news/comanche-of-the-month-october-2012-r15

Just one example: http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/XEHB-7000FK/10002/-1?parentProductId=#moreDetails

CRL MJ power slider rear window. They still pop up but very rarely on Ebay. http://www.trucksliderwarehouse.com/power-sliders/?sort=featured

Me too. But the dogs are going bananas and are driving me crazy. Guess they don't celebrate the 4th.

Beat this!

I was under the impression pre-90's did not have crush sleeves. And, I could just torque the nut to whatever ft-lbs and call it a day. Even the real parts lookup sites show a crush sleeve such as this one: http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=701874&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15526&modelYear=1988&ukey_category=20306&ukey_driveLine=7395 I already know I've passed the "you're overthinking this" stage. I just haven't ordered the seal yet (I'm not really in a big rush, I don't go on the highway much) and this was bugging me in the back of my head, so I was digging around to see where I got the idea of just torquing the nut down, no need for measurements. Anywho, I'm not trying to pick on hornbrod, I will get my hands on that seal and take a stab at it. Although I have been toying with the idea of buying this so I have another tool :thumbsup: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1WPFE/ Yes, I was all wet on that one. A friend and I did a gear change years ago on my old 91 D35 and we had problems with the crush sleeve crushing. He said if only your truck were a few years older the D35 would not have a crush sleeve because they used shims. I took him at his word as he's one of the sharpest mechanics I know. Then when I read this thread I took the time to look it up in the factory parts manual. Sure enough all the D35s used in the MJ era had crush sleeves. Sorry for the confusion.

:hijack: Just kidding. Have not actually received it yet, nor have I paid for it, but it looks like a done deal. The seller is an outstanding member of our community and is truly impeccable.

A gorgeous longbed with lots of chrome, and a wife who drives a 5-speed. Doesn't get any better than that. Well done and well deserving MJOTM. :cheers:

More vibration for sure. Ultra-Flex rubber is a misnomer. Way too much vibes for me - ditched them quick and went with new Mopar mounts. The BD mounts have their place, but it's not in a street rig.

^^^ Troubleshooting Electrical Problems 101. Verify power and return at the device before replacing the device.

Yes, like asking for a moon rock, but does anyone have and be willing to part with one? Prefer the double switch if possible. Image shamelessly stolen from fiatslug87: :yes:

Try cleaning up the CPS connector by spraying with some electrical contact cleaner in it. You might get lucky.