HOrnbrod

This is crazy. I need to replace my old accelerator cable and started looking around. For a new OEM cable, p/n 53006556, the price is $156.00 from ChryslerPartsDirect. :eek: A new Omix-ADA aftermarket cable from RockAuto is like $22 and change. A $134 / 700% price difference!! I have never seen such a disparity in pricing for the same part. I like to use OEM parts whenever possible, but that is more than insane..................

Looks like a treated 8x8. Would look better if 4" or so were chopped off each end.

I don't know the dementions or have blueprints, but this one is pretty cool:

I gave the OP the front rotor/hub factory p/n in his previous post regarding Centrix junk products. :yes: OP, simply do a search using that p/n. Replacements are available from Bendix, Wagner, and the chain parts houses store brands. I usually use Bendix products, but it's your choice. O'Reillys carries them all.

Nope, didn't see it. :dunno:

Actually you can get a kit of sorts from hellcreek. Dunno if it's something he throws in with his springs or sales separately? Either way like Don said, just as easy to make your own. Really? I didn't know that. Know what it looks like? Just a longer rod?

According to their web site, Centrix does not list or market a front rotor/hub for the 91 and below 2WD XJ/MJ. Only 4WD front rotor and rear drums.

No company makes them - it's an obsolete part NLA. They are easy to make though: http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/?hl=adjustable

1992, after Feb 10, 1992 build date. For the OP, you need p/n 53002928 for the one piece rotor/hub. I don't know about the Centrix junk.

Ever change your fuel filter? Might be due.

That's false advertising since it's still a Renix. :P

You have to get married Pete and have some of your own. :yes:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2006/05/peras-core-corner-its-time-to-say-goodbye-to-an-old-friend/

Looks like a big healthy happy guy. And many kudos to you for adopting him and giving him a good home. :cheers:

You didn't search very hard. http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/

Okay. Looks like a base coat waiting for the clearcoat. But does look great. :cheers:

Maybe it looks good because your paint is a flat / satin finish?

Nope.

^^ That won't do anything except clear the fault codes from memory. This is supposed to work for the factory and dealer installed alarm system Jim: Find the Light GREEN / ORANGE or PURPLE / YELLOW wire in the Driver Kick Panel / Door Boot. Skin the insulation from a spot on this wire and ground it. This will disarm the system until the ground is removed.

Dully Comanches are, well, kind of dull. Dually MJs however are very cool. I'd love to have one also. :cheers:

Looking at the schematic, I'd guess it's there for amperage surge protection for the fan relay coil from the the higher amperage AC compressor clutch startup. Looks like another Renix kluge that seems to work, as the diode appears to be a low failure component.

No, purchased it on Ebay from FFD's Ebay seller, spikedcollardogs. Sent them an email asking for the radiator only w/o the fan setup. Details here on my Dual OEM Aux Fan Installation post. http://comancheclub.com/topic/7895-dual-oem-aux-fan-installation/?hl=electric+fan

Good rundown, best I've seen. :thumbsup: I went with the FFD 2-core ($200 shipped) after trying a couple of the other less expensive rads on your list. None helped much, but the FFD cured all cooling issues with the stroker, especially the stuck in traffic on 199* days. It's about 1/4" thicker than most, but that required no modifications. If a radiator can be beautiful, this one was. The welds are works of art, and it's a solid heavy unit. I did however have to mod the lower auto tranny coolant aluminum elbow by using a tubing bender to tighten up the bend radius a bit for better clearance from the frame - no biggy. Customer support was great - I wanted a petcock instead of the supplied plug and asked. A quality brass petcock arrived a couple of days later in the mail free. Three plus years later - all is well.

This table is generally correct although there are some exceptions:

If you have a DMM it's real easy to check the diode. If it checks good you cam eliminate it as the cause of your aux fan not working. If it checks bad, any 12-24 VDC diode with a 5A or so rating from Radio Shack will work since we're talking small amps in this circuit. Just make sure the diode polarity is correct (one end has a black band) when soldering it in.