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manche_mane

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About manche_mane

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    Comanche Fan

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    wichita, ks
  1. Well it's been a long time since I posted an update. Since last year I've set up a new header panel and set up 0awg positives and grounds. I brought the head to the shop and had it resurfaced. The guy said it was massively warped. All good now. New seals. No cracks. The oil looked great and the bottom end looks great....as far as I can see. But when I looked back in the pan, there was some sludge. I ran my fingers through it and found some chunks that were like metal but I can break it down with my nails. There is one little chunk that has me worried. Definitely metal. Can't tell where its from but just to be sure I taking the block to the shop now. Ugh thought it was solid. My fault for not pulling the pan off months ago. I'm still cleaning a few brackets and stuff but here is a somewhat recent picture of the top end Hopefully I'll have more done before a year is up...but family takes precedence over extra vehicles
  2. I think that's a good idea. It overheated before I got it and I replaced the radiator before but it's got stop leak in it. Still going to convert it since I'm half way there Yes. I've got my eye some louvers. I modified the fan shrouds to fit e fans, but I didn't know about that clutch. Thanks for that. I think that will be way better than the 14" fan I bought :thumbsup:
  3. I'm taking my engine to be rebuilt. It is the closed system renix that has had overheating issues since I've gotten it with 50k. Because I'm tired of cars overheating, I'm now looking into every way possible to keep the engine cool. I now have an aluminum 3 row radiator and everything to convert to open system. Now that everything is apart, I'm getting anal about things and been looking into heat wraps because the intake and exhaust are weaved together. Also I got a pacesetter header and I will paint it with ceramic coating and maybe wrap it. From what I've read, you want to put the heat wrap on the part that is hot(like header)...but also I've read about wrap that you put on the part that you want to keep cool(intake). And then I see that people put wrap on the fuels rails on other cars to keep the fuel temp low even though there is minimal improvement. I've even seen people say to keep aluminum unwrapped to let heat escape. Also we have a heat shield between the fuel rail and intake manifold...I'm thinking about painting or sticking a wrap to. I'm curious about the different heat solutions, in terms of wrap or coatings, that other 4.0 owners have done or think should be done. Thanks, -Chris
  4. Got my brake lines honed out. The eBay listing said M.O.R.E., but the badges say Crown..lol only took me a couple years to notice. My buddy got it really close but didn't want to over do it, so I used my dremel to get the threads to slide in.
  5. Yes it is a 74 or 75 scout 1 ton hot mess with all chevy outer axles and all other outer parts. I will have to turn the inner knuckles and probably reset all the mounts to make the pinion angle work. If it comes time for new gears, Ill need chevy gears and inner shafts. I'm hard headed so I did find a Dana 300, Novak non flip clockring adapter, and a 23 spline AW4 -edit- your eyes do deceive you. the t case is in the bed. It still has the 2wd tranny under there lol. That was my next step
  6. Thank u all for the replies. I thought it was the track bar but wasn't sure
  7. I just finished my tie rod and drag link(set as a y link to the tie rod) but I have not started to install a mount for the lower track bar mount( cut off the stabilizer mount). When I tried to test the steering, the wheels did not turn at full lock at all and the whole truck shifted. MY MAIN QUESTION IS SHOULD I HAVE THE TRACK BAR INSTALLED B4 TESTING THE STEERING? while I did this I cleaned up a little welds and excess material. Where the y link is, is very close to the 2 rods hitting when turned one direction. So should I rid the y link(use the hole for the stabilizer in the feature). Right now it is all hi steer. Should I switch to crossover?(my understanding for crossover is to have the tie rod in the lower holes on the knuckles, and the drag ling directly to the hi steer) I already plan to order new coil mounts and rotate the inner c's. All honesty, I don't want to hear that I should use a different axle although there is a 3/4 ton chevy near me with a bad ring or pinion. To add, after I moved the steering wheel, I broke the weld to the upper control arm mounted to the tube... :fs1: Now I remember the guy who welded did not notch that mount to go around the tube so it was weld on weld on weld, which I grinded b4 testing the steering Here r some pics if anyone can follow me this far:
  8. My new weapon..7/8 tapered bit and 1/2" drill. I used an extra Chevy pitman arm as a guide how far to ream Is this drag link angle sufficient?
  9. Nothing to show really. Just organizing the cluster in my brain... I decided that as far as my castor, I will set it according to my pinion angle to prevent binding. As far as the inner Cs, I can cut and turn them to the exact angle I need. But this will have to wait until I have a house with a garage. While I'm at it I'll put a nice truss on and Better brackets......the other option would be to find a driver side diff axle and flip the d300. Also, I have the AW4 that would be a direct swap for an 87-90, but that is a 21 spline output. The 300 requires 23 spline so I'll buy a 91-96 and sell the 3 extra trannys... :wall: On top of that, a minor issue...The caliper banjo bolts do not fit the hole in my M.O.R.E. brake lines(must have bought the jeep application. can't remember). I have a friend who runs lathes so hopefully that'll do it. :doh: On a good note, I finally got some good DOM pipe for the tie rod and drag link. I'll have someone else weld the ends on for me. In the mean time I'm looking for the proper taper for my pitman arm and Y-link. I bought a 3 row aluminum radiator, 14" e fan, and a filler neck for the upper hose. Ill have my head machined or replaced. Yaaye -Also received a new complete header panel for the 96...going back to the old. seems a lot stronger EDIT UPDATE- I got the correct AW4 from a 95 xj. I've had the Novak clockring. Now waiting for the d300 gasket and seal kit in the mail. Bought the 7/8" tapered bit and drill to ream the drop pitman and tie rod Y-link. The steering angle is pretty darn flat. Looking good to me. I'll take more take pics once the tie rod and drag link are tacked on. The brake lines are in my friend's shop. Hopefully he gets them nice and straight. No new pics as of yet, but this one will give an idea about the angles I have. If only the inner C's were as easy to rotate...
  10. Good to know! I think it is ok too just didn't want to be the one to say it...lol
  11. Thank you. They are right. I have the Rough Country set but they are for the xj. The unibody is angled different after the drop bracket...so I could not install the support brackets that go behind them. Rubicon Express has the drop bracket kit for our mjs. I will eventually get the RE kit. I have seen someone on here modify the support bracket to work. But last time I looked, the RE set was a bit cheaper. I was stupid and bought the more expensive ones and they didn't fit the mj. ebay should have the RE kit that you need
  12. Well, my dad got a crazy puppy that keeps getting into my parts and scattering things across the yard so I've been doing very little after work. So having to order parts has been a pain in my @$$...but safe to say I'm catching on to things about my IH/Chevy/Jeep setup I got myself into. Also the cold and lack of sunlight makes me want to stay home... This is close to where it sits after I replaced my 2.5" spacers with .75" isolators. It's crazy how far the front end goes after dropping it ~2" Here is how it sat before: I actually like how the front is extended. Of course I do have adjustable control arms...which brings me to my dilemma... ...I think the guy who welded my brackets up set the caster in the opposite position(-5*vs+5*). From what I understand, + caster would be leaning back right(the top BJ toward the rear and the bottom BJ to the front)...correct? So I can adjust my upper and lower arms to favor either the pinion angle or the inner C. I'm not too worried about the coil spring perch angle. Hmm maybe I should go with a waggy front end with a truss and new brackets. Here is a pic of the inner C from before: I'm thinking the inner C is way off. I don't think the pinion was his guide because the 2wd beam didn't have one. I am going to point the rear pinion to the tcase and have a collapsible rear driveshaft with a CV ordered., but I'm so confused about how to handle my front end..I thought maybe I can ghetto-fi it with a CV or two on the front shaft... or maybe I can deal with the angle since there won't be any locked hubs on the road. Because I don't want it to shake and bind, but I don't want super sensitive steering either
  13. Where I am now. Only gave up because I misplaced a socket:
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