HOrnbrod

You can get the Ford brake clevis in many places, such as: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Lokar-EC-81FC-E-Brake-Clevis-for-Ford-Explorer-and-Wilwood,37008.html The Explorer disk brakes have return springs internally on the brake shoes, so the cable return spring is not necessary. When I had the disk brakes on the D35 originally I kept the cable spring (had to shorten it), but not when I swapped them over to the D44 when I replaced the cables. The Explorers don't have a cable spring either. No problems with the shoes not returning.

^^^ Would have made a great bonfire.

I have the D44 with Explorer disk brakes. I used new MJ stock e-brake cables (they were plenty long enough even with a lift and of course fit the turnbuckle adjuster). For the Explorer e-brake "hooks" I used stock Ford clevis pieces, slotted them, and slipped the cable in. Works great.

It's electrical. Try a new sender, or remove the one you have, clean the threads and screw it back in tightly. Looks like it may not be grounding well until the head expands with heat and "grips" the sender threads better.

Hector says it was just a "Minor hit in the front". Sounds like it's a bit more. :shake:

It shows that even on a derelict rusted hulk like that, hidden goodies may be present. Like an elusive 2.5 aluminum valve cover? It's always wise to eyeball even the most rotten carcasses.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/4516030172.html

Looks fairly solid. Has a straight V6 though. :yes: http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4455359385.html

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-electrical-sockets-3-wire-terminal-seal-beam-lamp-4002-4005-bulb-85810/5011965-P?searchTerm=headlight+socket#

You got it. It's over now...............

The OME stuff seems to always give more lift than advertised. I got a full 3" up front with the OME 630 coils, and also 3" with the GS MT springs. This was about 5-6 years ago. The GS MT springs settled about an inch in about a year, then a set of Teraflex greasable shackles brought it back. The OME front coils have not settled at all.

Guess I got my track/stadium vs. offroad racing mixed up. The paint scheme is similar though, si? The air dam sure looks nice on the above.

Correct. I used the pump bracketry from a 01 XJ and the pump and res from an 04 Wrangler to match the increased pressure requirements required for the 98 ZJ steering quick steering gear box I also installed at the time. Much neater setup. Good writeup here: http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?6355-4-0L-99-intake-manifold-swap-with-REAL-DYNO-NUMBERS!

^^^ That.

ComancheKid45, you have to put one of those on Walker.

That's the Hesco "delivery truck". 4.9L stroker with an Eaton supercharger. I got to drive that thing around the back streets of Birmingham a little bit. What a blast. It's retired now.......... http://www.hesco.us/customergallery.asp?action=form&formID=1725&recordID=90227

In a historical sense it would be nice to have one of these. To actually run one on a street truck though it wouldn't last long as low as it hangs. If I were going to actually use a front spolier, I'd rather have something like this:

:huh???: These HK researchers should look at their own government first.

In your dreams. Wish all the finals games were played at Miami. It fires up the Spurs. Love how the Miami fans start a mass exodus with 4+ minutes left when there was still a chance. Probably the only NBA arena where that could happen.

Two questions: 1. Did you use the proportioning valve from the Cherokee when you swapped the master cylinder? and 2. Have you bypassed the rear load sensing valve on the MJ?

Sealed Power® p/n R905 crosses to OE Part Number J3242393. You can get them cheaper than what NAPA charges. Check Rock Auto. Just curious: Why do you need to replace your rocker arm assemblies? Noisy?

You sure can. But you have to pull the Pitman arm to replace the seal and that's lots of fun with the box on the truck. :yes: I just had a slight leak and tried the Lucas stuff first. It worked just fine. Still is.

Spritzing fuel at the rail Schrader valve means nothing except the pump runs and creates some pressure. For the HO models there is a simple test that eliminates fuel system physical problems, including fuel tank sock filter obstructions / clogs, the regulator, and the return line. It's a pump volume test. You connect a hose to the rail Schrader valve into a container, turn the IGN on, and run the pumped fuel into the container for a calibrated time vs. fuel volume pumped. I know the specs for the HOs, have done the test a few times when I suspect a fuel delivery problem, and it works well so you can move on to other possible causes. No idea if the Renix system has this test documented though. Probably not.

I don't normally endorse these products, but I had a leaky steering gear box also at the output shaft and tried a bottle of Lucas power steering stop leak as a temp fix. It took about a week for the leak to stop, but three years later it's still dry with no ill effects. Worth a shot.

Yes, this is a pretty common problem with the front disk brakes on our trucks. I have Ford Explorer disks on the rear, and they have a stainless steel "cap" that snaps across the caliper bracket track the calipers ride on. When you replace the pads, these caps are included and are replaced too. So building back up the worn metal on the bracket track is never necessary. Why AMC then Chrysler engineers didn't do this I'll never understand. And no, these clips don't fit the front Jeep calipers unfortunately. Occasionally Ford did something better.