HOrnbrod

The New England Patriots tight end Aaron Hernandez has been indicted for yet another murder, this time a double murder, along with the one he was already convicted of. And this guy was the highest paid tight end in the NFL when he got in trouble last year. He had the world by the tail. Jesus. If Hannibal Lecter could run a 4.2 sec. 40, the Patriots would immediately sign him. W/o a background check. It's getting so that the more I see of the dredges of humans, the more I prefer animals. Or corpses...........

Get a quote from Greyhound Package Express. I shipped one from AL to CA a couple of years ago for around $55. Probably higher now though...........

Upgrading the mains cables and terminals is always a good idea. Along with cleaning up the connections. I used a Jon Kelly cable kit specific for my rig when I did mine. I don't think there's a better place for both quality and price to get specific HD mains cables for our Jeeps. http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/electric.html

Yep - works fine. http://comancheclub.com/topic/41929-installing-a-1996-throttle-body-mounted-m-a-p-sensor/

"Slight" is a subjective word. With the rear drive shaft geometry as posted in your pics, wobble and/or vibration has to be a bit more than slight. But post up the alignment results if it helped any.

Either a SYE or a new CV drive shaft should work (more $$). Getting new perches welded on the tubes correctly will work (less $$).

Here's your setup now: This is how it should be set up: Does it look like a six degree wedge will rotate the pinion down that much?

Those are not regulation D44 perches mate. It looks like whomever welded them on the axle tubes screwed up causing the axle pinion to point up towards the t-case, thus ruining the pinion angle. You would need probably a 20*-25* shim to rotate the axle back down to. Nobody makes those AFAIK - 8* is about max. Shims are only used for fine adjustment. I think the best way is to cut them off and re-weld new perches.

Are those blocks between the axle and the leaf springs? And what's up with those springs? AAL's?

A shorted fuel pump can blow that fuse. To verify disconnect the pump connector from the tank and retry. Did you reuse your existing pump in the new tank?

Agree. No way the rear diff pinion should be pointed up that much unless you are using wedges or something. It's like the leaf spring center bolt isn't in the lower plate hole and the axle is rotated upwards so the pinion is "looking at" the tcase output. Looks like it's set up for a CV drive shaft. Might be your pic angle, but the below is the proper geometry your drive shaft should be at. This is where you are.

This is the one I used - fits 1991 and up XJ/MJ 4.0 HO engines, was bolt-in PnP for me. It's a 136A alt, and with upgraded mains cables and terminals, it handles the dual e-fans, all power accessories, H4 headlamps, and the rest of the electrical load with no problems. It's all I need and it can be found on many vehicles. Unless you need a 170A alternator for some reason. I doubt that you do.

Got an angle finder? Stick it on top of the L & R upper ball joints and check your caster while sitting on level ground.

Yep, sounds like your caster is AFU (too negative).

Do the backup lights and the ignition switch interlock still work?

Even the stock no-lift springs from General will give some lift depending on the condition of your existing springs. In a perfect world, they will restore your rig to factory specs, as in the link below. Since my original springs were a bit sagged, the MT springs gave me almost 3", but did settle down 1/2" in about a year. I compensated with new 2" OME coils up front, and it worked out well. I'm sure you know, but be prepared for some lift in the rear end if you still have the original rear factory leafs. http://comancheclub.com/topic/11098-how-to-measure-ride-hight/

Yes, they should work just fine with factory wheels.

Part # 83502745, google it. They are everywhere...........

The springs I ordered were the 3+2 MT springs w/o the military wrap - was not an option at that time. When the springs arrived, one was a NOS Mopar spring they mistakenly sent. This was their original model. Before shipping it back, I compared the two and they were identical in all ways; free arch, bushings, leaf design, clamps, etc. This was seven years ago, and they settled about 1/2" total. I was (and am) very satisfied with them. Can't speak for their non-MT MJ springs though. Hell Creek is also a good option for springs.

As Comanche County said "If the MJ didn't come with AC or the tow package, it wouldn't have the electric fan." Perhaps a better word to use would be "shouldn't" have the fan. Nothing is written in stone in Jeep; there were undocumented dealership options available. But for sure, there were no "shrouds of some kind" available for a XJ/MJ missing the puller electric fan.

A junkyard visit isn't going to score a new one. A different one, but not new. I realize there are plenty of HD aftermarket track bar brackets for the XJ, but most are proprietary, i.e. you have to use their track bar, or to drop the bar, or they are for large lifts. Anyone know of a HD aftermarket bracket that will replace the stock piece and you can use the track bar of your choice?

Signature says 86 Comanche 2WD 5spd 2.5liter.

Don't want to steal Johnny's thread, but I found my noise maker. The nut was 1-1/2 turns loose on the track bar frame end where in mounts in the bracket cup. This is a castle nut with a cotter pin, so I never checked it originally. I must have been lazy or feeling weak when I installed the adjustable track bar a couple of years ago. So far, no more popping. But I suspect the mounting hole in the bracket maybe got wallowed out unless I caught it in time. If so, what's the fix for this? New frame brackets are probably unobtainium by now, so is the fix to weld the hole shut then redrill?

Congrats. The 3.6L Pentastar engine is a huge improvement over the 3.8. A couple of things you might have already noticed are the very crappy headlamps (worse than a stock MJ/XJ) and ride quality. A set of Trucklite LEDs and OME JK shocks take care of those problems. :thumbsup: