HOrnbrod

Better drawing.........

So did I. I had slight weeping at first on the left side assembly as explained above, but corrected it by repairing the axle vent, also explained above. That was three years ago. No tack welding was necessary in my case. Pull the axle vent nipple and make sure it's not clogged. If it is, unclog it by drilling it out, or replace it.

This is true. All you are doing at the connector is checking the resistance of the individual solenoid coils. When they go bad, they usually open; no continuity. There are plenty of writeups to install a manual TC lockup switch on NAXJA and other places if you have to. I think your solenoids are okay. Why don't you check the solenoid resistance from the TCU connector next? BTW, was your AW4 working fine before the engine swap?

AW4 manual says: Replace valve body solenoid(s) if resistance is not 11-15 ohms. But definitely clean up your grounds first. FWIW mine all read 14.0 ohms. You can also check the solenoids using pins C14, C15, and C16 on the TCU connector to ground. Shift Logic S1 ON + S2 OFF = 1st GEAR S1 ON + S2 ON = 2nd GEAR S1 OFF = S2 ON = 3rd GEAR S1 OFF = S2 OFF = 4th GEAR S3 ON = TORQUE CONVERTER LOCKED 2nd-4th GEAR/OD

What ohm readings are you getting on solenoid 1 (B to G) and solenoid 2 (B to F)? http://www.oemsolenoids.com/solenoid-set-a340-aw4-new/

You don't have to have a hose - it's only there to keep water out if you are in deep water. Pull the vent nipple and make sure it's clear. Nope, no movement, no leaks. Preload spacer orientation for the D44:

First thing I thought of when I saw it. :yes:

More pics for the kids: Angry teeth to go with angry eyes.

I used the stock D44 1/4" axle vent hole with stock Dana axle push-in nylon hose adapters exiting into the frame. Just make sure your axle vent, no matter what your configuration, is clear and WIDE-open.

Yes, I have done the Teraflex disk brake swap - twice. The first time was on a D35 c-clip, ran it for about two years, and it never leaked a drop from day one. However, after snapping a couple of rear axles getting a bit to exuberant with the stroker, I swapped in a D44. This required new D44 backing plates and preload spacers from Teraflex because of the different axle flange, and the drivers side did weep gear oil from day one from the e-brake adjustment hole in the backing plate. I replaced the drivers side seal and used sealant around outer edge of the seal; it still weeped. It never was a drip, just a film of oil around the rubber plug. When I did the swap from D35 to D44, I reused the old axle vent nylon adapter and vent hose. Pulled all that stuff and replaced it all with new D44 axle-specific axle vent components, and the weeping stopped. That was three years ago or so. It's remained dry with sero weeping. It seems the D44 axle needs more open venting than the pinhole nylon vents used in the D35. Why, I have no idea. But it was the fix for me. Point is - check the axle vent. Make sure it's clear, and even drill out the nylon vent hole adapter a little bigger. Also, the D44 preload spacer needs to be clocked correctly facing the axle seal. The chamfered side needs to be facing the seal, not the flat side.

No, you can't use your housing as there are no provisions for mounting gauges, or your original speedo and fuel gauge. Completely different housing. You can also go this route: http://comancheclub.com/topic/14086-upgrading-to-a-gauge-package-w-column-shifter/?hl=shift+indicator&do=findComment&comment=140444

The oil pressure, voltmeter, and coolant temperature gauges are common the both the Renix and HO clusters and can be interchanged between clusters with gauges. But since you have the 91 idiot light cluster w/o gauges, no, because you can't mount the gauges in place of the idiot lights (no mounting posts), and the printed foil circuit on the back of the cluster is also wrong for gauges. In order to convert your cluster idiot lights to gauges, you need to swap in an HO cluster w. full gauges, then either transplant your shift indicator into the new tach, or use an aftermarket shift indicator on the column as I did.

Have you checked resistance through the AW4 solenoids yet? The O/D (TC Lock) solenoid is #3. If the solenoid coil is open, the TC will never lock/unlock. Pretty common failure too. You can check for 12-15 ohms at the 7-pin white connector on the cable that runs from the AW4 to the TCU along the firewall. Disconnect the connector on the firewall and ohm out the pins on the transmission side as follows: Connector Pin Layout E F G H C B A Solenoid 1, B to G Solenoid 2, B to F Solenoid 3, B to E Solenoid resistance can also be checked from the TCU connector: A bad or mismatched TCU can also cause TC lock up and/or shifting failures.

Had one years ago that did that - turned out to be worn out rear spring bushings.

^^ Damn, that sounds like a nice interior. :cheers:

HERE 2,700 Miles, with "repairable" rust. :hmm: I'll pass.......

Looks like a dead turkey buzzard laid out on the hood.

93 or below leather XJ seats would be my choice if I could find a nice set. Color doesn't matter, easy to dye leather. As in glundblad's MJ: :drool: :drool:

4.56 gears w. 35" tires will put you @ approx. 2134 RPMs @ 65 MPH. That's pretty close to factory gearing: 3.55 gears w. 28" tires = 2,076 RPM @ 65 MPH. With 35's you could even go to a 4.88 ratio (2,284 RPM @ 65 MPH). Depends on where you drive most regularly, street or off-road. .

I'd tell the guy to go pound sand, unless you have to sell it. 91 and 92 HO's are rapidly going up in value.

It's a rear sway bar from a WJ. It's all here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42643-comanche-rear-sway-bar-long-box/

I don't remember any VA inspector checking my vehicle's speedometer when I lived up there. Of course, maybe they do now, who knows. :dunno:

FYI....That undercarriage[/size] is too clean.....members might start to tease you.... :brows: Tease away. Don't bother me at all. :yes: Correct. The only external tags Dana Spicer puts on their axles are the gear ratio and if it's a limited slip or posi, the correct diff fluid to use in it. The rest of the info about the axle is stamped on the axle tube.

Pics. Looks pretty good to me. Depending on unseen rust and mechanical condition, and if it's been in the South all it's life, and it's an HO, I'd say an easy $4500-$5000. Maybe more. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found