HOrnbrod

Check your driveshaft u-joints for slop.

Yeah Bo, thinking the same. You need the track bar and drag link as close to parallel as possible as in the pic below. You don't have a pic wide enough to see the total relationship. The geometry looks wrong from what I can see due to the dropped Pitman.

Just because you have power to the TCU does not mean each signal to and from the TCU to the AW4 is showing up on the correct pin. The new 1992 AW4 and TCU have different pin-outs than your original tranny. You need to ID the AW4 you have now by reading the model / serial number, then run the numbers online to ID the year. Once you do that you will need a wiring diagram for the TCU and tranny to match the TCU and AW4 pinouts. Did you read the the link I posted above? The TCU, AW4, and wiring harness all need to be matched. Since your's doesn't shift at all electrically, I'm guessing the solenoid voltage isn't showing up at the tranny. Here's a link that might help: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/tech-faq-links-tsbs-89273/

I had a set of leaf springs re-arched years ago, not on an MJ, and the "new" arch only lasted a little over a year until they sagged back down even worse than before. I've read also of it happening to others here. So if possible, new springs are preferable if you can do it. And Tom at Hell Creek is a fair honest guy and is highly recommended in my book. I'm not sure he still makes stock MJ springs, so give him a call or send an email. :thumbsup: http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/

I gave you help, as I always try to do to members on this forum. Several members have ordered from the link I provided, a reliable source for rear springs, including myself, with no problems. Then you say I'm rude for speaking the truth because you ordered the wrong part w/o doing your homework. I'd never recommend any parts source w/o personal experience. You blew it man. Learn from your mistake.

Rock Auto, O'Reillys, and others have the MJ rear leaf spring bushings. MOOG SB371 (Front) MOOG SB372 (Rear)

Exactly right. Oh well, I gave him the link to General Spring for the MJ springs. Maybe he can rent a spring stretcher from Autozone.

Yes, power windows / locks are not common in an MJ, but all the pieces are exactly the same as in a 2-DR XJ (except for the regulators). See what he's asking. If he has a ridiculous price, find some from a 2-DR XJ in a yard. This is what I did, using only the power door panels and switches with pigtails from an XJ and then used new aftermarket regulators and made my own harness. I can PM you the wiring diagram if you need it. Because of the high failure rate of the crappy factory regulators I got new regulators from the link below. These are quality regulators made in Italy, and about twice as fast as the factory ones. I've had them in for about four years now. I sold my old manual regulators on Ebay and got almost all my $$ back that I paid for the new power regulators. I'm cheap that way. :yes: http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=JE01-K

4.10 gears Test, test, test 4.10" gears Test, test, test Anyhow, glad you like the chrome Jay. Stick with it. :yes:

Okay, bad touch. Still like though. :thumbsup:

Just curious. Was the "Stupif" in your title intentional? If so, nice touch. :cheers:

I stay away from Dorman products, especially for engine parts. They're okay for hardware and other smalls, but I don't want a balancer flying apart. A Mopar unit is the best, but a good quality replacement I like is the Pioneer brand. #DA-242 is the balancer for the Jeep 4.0L engines.

Aye, welcome aboard sarge. Even though perhaps it was a rust free truck from TX, it picked up some when traversing the Mason/Dixon line due to culture shock. :yes: You have a rare 1992 Elim bird there, and she looks great. Well worth the 5-year search. :cheers:

Million dollar question. Back-feeding occurs when the normal circuit + to - current flow is impeded. The most common cause is when the normal circuit ground is corroded, causing impedance/resistance. Current always flows to the path of least resistance, so if the circuit ground point has resistance, it will go to ground through say a bulb filament, a buggered up fuse panel or harness; anything with lower resistance to ground. I would start with performing all the ground cleaning/refreshing procedures Cruiser has posted. If you are lucky, that will cure your weird problem(s). If not, then it comes down to isolation of the affected circuits by defusing and disconnecting individual circuits. Usually a PITA if you don't visually see the problem in the process. Do the ground checks first mate is my humble advice.

Err, yes. I think this has been settled.

Yes, I would stick the Renix IAC back on it. The Holley 543-105 Idle Air Motor is a known substitute at about 1/3 the cost of a Mopar IAC, and only works on the HO engines. So that lead me to assume the Renix and HO IAC motors are not compatible. To test the MAP sensor output (middle pin) you can use a large safety pin and slide it into the back of the weatherpack connector shell where the wires exit. The engine needs to be running during the MAP output voltage test. Also check the 5VDC reference voltage with the connector off the MAP across the two outer pins with the ignition on.

I would try this first too Jeff. The rocker arms are about $7/ea, and both the 2.5 and 4.0 use the same p/n, J3242393. If no joy, I'd then have a good shop rebuild the head.

To make it clear, find the Bill of Materials (BOM) for your axle tube using this: Then go to the Dana Expert site below, type in the BOM in the "Axle Bill of Materials" box, and it should give you p/n's for everything in the housing' http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/demenu.aspx?prod=AXL

You have a back-feeding problem, but you know that. :yes: Did all this start with the trailer harness hookup?

How do you know? Ever have it dynoed? http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387 And it's better than that now.

Is that a modified ebrake lever from an XJ Mnkyboy? :hmm:

That is a TJ. O_o It was just for reference purposes........... :thumbsup:

:yes: Yeah, the original mercury switch drove me crazy. Wish now I had done it in black though......

Here's one way to do it. Just make sure you keep the vacuum check valves in-lined properly. : http://comancheclub.com/topic/16154-vacuum-reservoir-relocation/?hl=caveman

^^ Good stuff.