HOrnbrod

Were you able to discover the cracked plate by removal of the inspection plate? Or was it just making a lot of clatter?

Or 91-92, especially for the grounding.

Another excellent 1986 MJ example selected as an MJOTM winner. These are the original MJ trucks that started it for all of us, and I'm all for it, especially since I'm so fond of longbeds. :yes: It's great to see the younger CC members grabbing these models and nurturing them back to life. Congrats, and keep up the good work. :cheers:

One total. It contains two relays (HI / LO Beams) and two H4 connectors.

:rotfl2:

Yep, this is true. Missed your signature. My bad.

Good possible fix. Was not aware of the push nut (or more likely forgotten about it). Thanks for posting that up 88whitemanche. Hope it works for you Rev. :cheers:

Stock exhaust pipe to the manifold used a donut gasket on the 91s. Also it used studs, not bolts. I junked all that stuff years ago by using a header and collector pipe. Easy to work on.............

Got them installed in the JK and as compared to the stock junk - WoW! As compared to the Ecode Hellas in the MJ, they do not have the sharp cutoff line of the Hella housings on low beam, but for distance and illumination, the LEDs and Hellas are about equal. On high beam though, the LEDs are far superior IMO. I'll have to get some side-to-side comparison shots soon..........

Just make sure the surface is clean and dry, and pack it all around the connector underside. I would not even do the outside unless it still leaked. When you open your gas tank cap, do you hear pressure escaping? Just want to be sure the tank is venting okay through the top vents.

I've used WaterWeld on motorcycle gas tank repairs on the inside and they have never leaked again. It's made for submerged applications in any fuel. http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-waterweld/

Leaking here at the electrical connector? Have never heard of that unless it was rusted out. To repair that I'd use some WaterWeld (Made by JBWeld) on both sides to seal it up.

You probably just need a new o-ring under the locking ring, p/n 53000575. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-tank-o-ring-53000575.html

JK shocks on an MJ facts below. Am not sure on the coils............ http://comancheclub.com/topic/40579-sold-2012-jeep-j-k-take-off-shocks-front-rear/?hl=shocks

Another option: Autometer 15211 A-pillar single gauge pod. They also make a dual gauge pod, #15210.

Just a couple of things: Up front I used the OME 630 coils, advertised at 2", but I actually got 2-1/2". They always give lift as advertised, sometimes more depending on the coils you are replacing. Also they are marked left and right, so if you use these, be sure to install them on the correct side. I also used OME shocks, and the ride and handling is superb. And, I did get a 3/4" axle shift to the left, so even a relatively small lift can cause some shift. But finish everything else first so you know which adj. trackbar to buy (if you need it). I went with the Teraflex unit, as it adjusts like a tie rod with a sleeve and you don't have to disconnect one end to adjust it. Adjustable control arms will not be needed; and restoring caster back to factory specs can be easily accomplished by adding shims at the rear of the LCA. Speaking of LCAs, I highly recommend swapping out to WJ lowers. Besides being beefier and allowing full lock-to-lock turns, the bushings are designed differently. They are larger and really improve the handling up front. For the rear I used new MT springs which gave me about 2-1/4" lift. Teamed with OME shocks also, the ride is great. They settled down maybe 1/2" over a year's time, then to get the little factory rake back I threw on a pair of greasable Teraflex shackles. Not the cheapest way to do a small lift, but I doubt you'll find a better way for improved handling and ride.

https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?cid=C40904CFDA278A46&resid=C40904CFDA278A46!140&app=WordPdf&wdo=1

Your longbed looks ab-so-lute-ly gorgeous in the snow NHMJXJ. :cheers: I'm lovin' it. Keep up the good work mate. Seeing pics like that almost makes me miss New England a little bit. But only for a little while. :yes: We had a major blizzard for us down here a couple of weeks ago (6"). Should have brought mine out for a poser pic in the snow. I'll probably never get another chance.

Why not.

That p/n is wrong. The correct O'Reillys p/n is CA1176, for 88-90 XJ/MJ w. AW4 transmissions. The factory p/n for this shift cable is 53004561.

Start it up, put your hand over the carb intake, and see if the idle improves. If it does, the carb has the vacuum leak, usually caused by a rotten o-ring(s), hole in the diaphragm, and/or clogged jet passages. If the carb has never been rebuilt, it needs it.

Get a carb rebuild kit for it. While you're in it clean it up real good using carb cleaner and blow out the jets and passages. I have to do this bi-annually on the bikes with the crappy ethanol fuel now..

I just checked put the B-pillar panels in my MJ body parts manual. All domestic (N. America) MJ had vents on both sides with a rubber flapper valve under the exterior panel to supposedly allow air out of the cab but nor in. But it's just a rubber piece, and most have probably disintegrated away. Also, some of the export models had an extra sheet metal reinforcement piece in the B panel, that probably means there was no vent in some of them.

Yeah, but it was worth it. Because I know you like racing. :yes:

Check the radio chassis ground wire. Probably pulled off........