HOrnbrod

The same leaf spring U-bolts are used for the D44 and D35 axle tubes (~3mm difference dia,), so no problem there. (XJ/MJ D35 = 2.62" dia.; XJ/MJ D44 = 2.75" dia.). When I first tested the new rear sway, I deliberately hit a speed bump hard and the links did touch the leaf springs enough so I could hear it. But that's easily fixed by loosening the sway bar axle brackets any rotating them upward to provide more clearance. I had to compromise between bar-to-aluminum cover clearance and link-to-leaf spring clearance, but if you use the stock diff cover no worries for clearance because there are no fins sticking out on it. I'll probably replace the finned aluminum cover with a stock Dana 44 steel cover with a drain plug later.

Thanks John. :cheers: But it's a D44. Spare tire winch is fine, but it still has the original 23 year old cable. The straps are just extra insurance for the hanging 31" tire. Thought you went to a Ford Explorer 8.8 for the rear disk brakes when you last had a problem with the Dana 44. Did not bother to look at the picture! So you just just installed the Explorer rear disks?? Or do I have that wrong too?? Do like the straps for insurance on the spare. I lost my spare and never knew it. Fortunately for me, I lost it right in front of the garage and found it when I came home. Still have not fixed the winch. Correct, I transferred over the Ford Explorer rear disks when swapping the old D35 for the D44. I just had to use different backing plates because the axle flange configuration changed and new pre-load spacers.

Thanks John. :cheers: But it's a D44. Spare tire winch is fine, but it still has the original 23 year old cable. The straps are just extra insurance for the hanging 31" tire.

Me too. :thumbsup:

Pretty good Jay, very noticeable difference. Of course, no MJ will ever be a sports car, but it's better than it was before.

This is the parts list I used: Sway Bar: 99-04 Jeep WJ Rear Sway Bar, p/n 52088739AD (New, $40 from 4WD.com) Sway Bar Bushings: 9/16" MOOG K7410 (New, $9 from Ebay) Axle Brackets / Ubolts: Late 90's Camaro or Firebird (Used, Free from Ebay, long story) End Links: 99-04 Jeep WJ Front Sway Bar Links, p/n MOOG K3201 (New, $17 from Ebay) *EDIT*: I had to shorten the end links 1" later to avoid contact with the leaf spring when carrying heavy loads. No contact now under all conditions. Frame Brackets: 99 Dodge Ram 2500 Rear Sway Bar Brackets (Used, $19 from Ebay) Total Expense: $85 clams Full Length: Left Side: Right Side: End Link / Frame Bracket: The frame brackets came from a 99-00 Dodge Ram 2500. Since I didn't want to weld the frame brackets on, I used these rather than the XJ brackets because they came with reinforcement nutstrips that go inside the frame for added strength. There was just enough room to slide the nutstrips into the existing frame hole just forward of where I mounted them and slide them back into the new holes. The Jeep WJ front end links were the correct length to position the sway bar arms nearly parallel to the ground as they are supposed to be. The other various offset end links I tried were all too long. Right now I'm using the stock 9/16" dia. Jeep WJ bar. Even with this relatively puny bar, the difference is really amazing when cornering - nice and flat combined with the 28mm bar up front. Later on I might switch to a beefier aftermarket WJ rear bar, but for now I'm happy with this setup. It helps a lot with the camper shell up top.

Hey! We have the same doggie bowls for our hounds. :yes: I was thinking about having Gus the Cocker's ears taped so they would stand up, but was afraid he might look like a fruit bat.

Well, you either trust him or you don't. Surely he won't try to keep trying to turn a bolt if it bottoms out? Si?

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Man, the cage incorporating the tube flares is fantastic. Functional on / off and looks great too. And it's a longbed. Excellent job mate.

For Jim maybe it should be a Grandmother. :rotf:

How about a daughter?

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No problem, just posted that for general info in case some HO owners were curious about the "Maint Req" lamp. :thumbsup:

You do if it's an HO. The "O2 sensor" reminder lamp is turned on by the ECU.

I only go to a "shop" to verify and fine tune my own results. They are not perfect of course, but close. You are assuming a different shop will be professional, but they also may be just as AFU as the first shop. Some of these shops employ minimum wage guys with little training with the emphasis on selling steering parts you most likely don't need to augment their salary. OP, pull the shims from the right side, and equalize the caster to the left side with the angle finder. Then go to a reputable alignment shop to verify.

Stick a timing light on it and see if the timing advances up to about 14* BTDC as you increase the RPMs and remains fairly steady on that area mark. You can't change it, but looking at the timing can detect a distributor problem.

The two rear ebrake cables are the same for SWB / LWB; the bed length difference is made up in the front cable. The SWB cable factory p/n is 52003192. Rockauto has four vendors to choose from; do a p/n search on their site.

Sounds like another tuna-trolling device. The only ceramic I want on my MJ is disk brake pads.

How many shims are at the rear of the right LCA? Or do you have adjustable LCAs? I haven't read the whole thread.......... Yes, 7.5* is the factory spec for an un-lifted MJ. But you may have to cheat on that a bit (lower it) depending on the amount you have of lift and the pinion angle.

Driver's side looks like 6* or so, but the passenger side is AFU. How many shims do you have packed in behind the right and left LCAs? It looks like if you can, you need to pull some shims out on the right side, tighten up, then measure again and keep doing it reducing the angle and get as close as you can to the 6* on the left (drivers) side. We're just looking for some improvement at this point. I can only assume you are on fairly level ground. And yes, use a socket.

To measure caster have the Jeep on level ground, place a socket over the top ball joint nut and put the angle finder on top of the socket, like the above pic. Both left and right upper ball joints. Usually I just put the angle finder across the top flat of each ball joint and measure the angle off the vertical (90*). Below are some I found on the iweb.This one shows about 5* of caster.

I have some of these - send PM if interested.

Mr. Skinner looks pregnant Jim. :hmm:

Actually the XJ and MJ senders are mirror images of each other and the baffles in the MJ fuel tanks contact the XJ senders. OP, contact Akula69 (Jake), a forum member. He should have some rebuilt fuel senders.