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HOrnbrod

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Everything posted by HOrnbrod

  1. HOrnbrod
    Great job so far, but, as you said, it needs more chrome. Mirrors, tailgate handle, rear bumper, wipers, and a set of silver/chrome tail lamps to top it off. Then it will be RIGHT! I'll keep my eye open for you. :thumbsup: Congratulations!
  2. HOrnbrod
    Correct, maybe three years ago he (Matt Bush) closed up shop.
  3. HOrnbrod
    HiCountry tow hook brackets / steering box brace:
  4. HOrnbrod
    Me too. Give it a go and report back. Looks like excellent feedback for that Ebay seller.
  5. HOrnbrod
    Yes, the XJs Laredo (and Up Country I think) had the 28mm front bar. The ZJ V8 bars were 26mm max.
  6. HOrnbrod
    You mean wary, yes? The shop will try to shorten it, but may run into problems when they try to balance it. This is what happened to me when I put in the D44 axle and had to have the shaft shortened. The shop couldn't balance it because the rubber stuff was moving around inside.
  7. HOrnbrod
    ...I cleared them. What fault codes were you reading? Sometimes when you make a dramatic change in the A/F ratio or injector pulse width (like changing fuel injectors) or engine timing, the ECU must be forced flashed to clear it's residual memory tables. Disconnecting the battery cables will clear the fault codes, but does not erase stored or residual memory. This is the procedure: Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground ( not the battery negative terminal ) for 30 seconds. The engine block or the A/C compressor pump will work as a ground. (This is to discharge the ECU capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory). Reconnect the Battery Cable Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine Turn Headlight “On” Turn Headlights “Off” Turn Ignition Key “Off”
  8. HOrnbrod
    Good point. I agree.
  9. HOrnbrod
    That type/size are normally used for trailer tires.
  10. HOrnbrod
    That and the rest of his stash is probably just p/o Rob's ever-expanding retirement fund. Good idea IMO too as the return for unobtainium parts down the road will most likely blow the doors off anything you could do in the stock market. Especially the way things are going. :thumbsup:
  11. HOrnbrod
    This is true, but I wanted a new Tom Wood shaft. :P
  12. HOrnbrod
    ^^ That. It was a rubber sheath wrapped around the 2-1/2" inner drive shaft on the 2WD. That's what happened to mine; the shop could not balance it because the rubber was moving around inside. I had to have a new shaft made.
  13. HOrnbrod
    Think he means these, numbers 3 & 4. NLA except at the junkyard.
  14. HOrnbrod
    I've often wondered why AMC didn't use XJ tail lamps when designing the MJ. They would have saved a bundle over the years.........
  15. HOrnbrod
    Obviously you never bothered to check (or clear) the fault codes.
  16. HOrnbrod
    You done good my friend. :cheers:
  17. HOrnbrod
    Pretty sure that when the OP had his new tires mounted and balanced, any substantial mud debris was removed. Unless the shop was really bad.........
  18. HOrnbrod
    I do run a OME stabilizer, but if the tires are properly balanced ( and the rest of the front end is squared away) a stabilizer does very little. While waiting for the OME stabilizer to arrive, I removed the original, and ran my truck a couple of weeks, including plenty of freeway driving w/o one. All was well, no shaking or vibrations. I think a stabilizer is kind of a band aid mainly to mask other steering/suspension system problems. I do consider it a necessary band aid to have installed however to cover imperfections that come along as the tires wear.
  19. HOrnbrod
    Ditch that shop if they don't use a Hunter Road Force balancer and find one that does.
  20. HOrnbrod
    WHAT year and model is your MJ?? There were no factory OBD2 MJs. If your MJ is a 91 or 92 it has no code reader test port because it's an OBDI system. Check the codes using the ignition key and count the light flash pulses as explained in the link gogmorgo provided above.
  21. HOrnbrod
    I have no schematic for all that - maybe the Renix people can decipher it. The HO setup is pretty simple. The single brake switch has three sets of contacts; one set of NO (normally open) and two sets of NC (normally closed). The NO set is for the brake lights of course, pressing the brake pedal applies 12V across the contacts and illuminates the brake lights. One NC set is for the TCU; when you depress the brake pedal it removes a ground signal from pin C10 on the TCU. The other NC set is for cruise control; pressing the brake pedal removes the 12V signal from the speed control servo. One option you have is to throw in an HO brake switch (easy if you swap in an HO pedal assembly) use a set of the NC contacts for the TCU. I have no idea what you have in the pics - sorry.
  22. HOrnbrod
    I suspect our TCUs are different. I'm not sure what you have, but the solenoids should ohm out at 12-16 ohms from the firewall connector anyhow. http://comancheclub.com/topic/41001-tcu-era-differences/?hl=tcu&do=findComment&comment=414221
  23. HOrnbrod
    Your ohmmeter seems wonky mate. Pin C10 is the TCU input from the NC (normally closed, OPEN when depressing the brakes) brake switch contact, a WHT/PNK wire. Controls the torque converter lock if the solenoid is working.
  24. HOrnbrod
    On the TCU connector ohm out pins C14, C15, and C16 each to pin D16. Your TCU may be different than a 91 and up.
  25. HOrnbrod
    You would love it in the Philippines. Oh, and the beer and ladies are fine too. :yes:
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