HOrnbrod

According to the parts manual the long bolt is M10x1.50x110mm (~4"). The shorter bolt is M10x1.50x55.

^^ This.

Damn, wish I'd known about that last summer. I was up in Winnipeg disposing of some wheat land my brother-in-law owned up near Gimli. Nice country. The white tail deer up there make ours look like small goats. :yes:

I remember seeing one like this one on Ebay. The below is on Summit advertised with a drain. But it's not a drain plug, just a magnetic plug sticking on the case. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/omx-1659586/overview/

I remember seeing a Dana cover on Ebay quite awhile ago with a drain plug; I recall it was a factory part. But have not seen one since............

Has anyone seen or heard of a stock steel factory D44 cover with a drain plug installed? No joy finding one............

The never ending Renix owners' quest and the $$ people pump into it to just equal a stock non-aspirated basic HO performance specs never ceases to amaze me. I just don't get it. And upgrading an HO is cake, less $$, and a whole more gain for the $$. To each his own i guess.

A beer? If the jar heads are anything like they were when I was in, he'll need at least a couple of six-packs. To start. :yes:

Distributor's in 180* out also then.

LOVE your outfit dahling.

:thumbsup:

Wow. Last night the men won the national championship; tonight the women did the same. Storrs, CT is the mega-Husky-capital of college hoops. :bowdown: :bowdown:

Coming along nicely. :cheers: And thanks for posting up the Baja pics. I'd love to attend one of those events. Someday.............

Thanks for your pics Jeff. They were a great help. :cheers:

I'd guess Companion Dog? :thumbsup:

Does look good, but can't you clean up the ragged edge, or even apply some channel molding around it to finish it off? Would be even better. :thumbsup:

I won't. Because that's how I did mine too. :yes:

:huh???: Eight months?? You were askin about carb kits just last February. :hmm: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42121-running-rough-doesnt-wanna-start-but-timing-is-dead-on/?hl=rebuild+kit&do=findComment&comment=427512

No, you have to go with either the idiot light or full gauge cluster because one printed circuit foil can not support both (or p/o both) type clusters.

To add to that, disk brakes are basically maintenance free. No periodic brake shoe adjustment is required, and there are no springs, levers, and other hardware to rot or wear out and replace. The only "maintenance" is to periodically eyeball the caliper for brake pad wear, then replace the pads when needed.

Visually inspecting an electronic gauge is only the first step. If no obvious breaks are detected, touch a 1.5V or 9V battery across the + and - terminals (observing polarity) momentarily and look for instant meter deflection. If no needle deflection, the meter movement mechanism is shot. Not an uncommon problem with any electronic gauge.

Pics mañana. Either way it wouldn't happen with the standard diff cover because you can adjust for plenty of clearance by rotating the axle brackets. The finned alloy covers are a clearance problem with the sway bar on the WJs too. And that's the best bar I could find to match up with the MJ longbed frame w/o welding special brackets. Agree, distorted thread nuts are much better than nylocks. But nothing beats double-nutting if you have the thread. I'm a big fan of double-nutting. :yes: EDIT: Much better now with the links mounted inboard to the bar. Used distorted thread nuts for fastening the link to the bar too. Miraculously my local Tractor Supply had them in 12mm size.

Did you ever get to the point that sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees? I think that's where I was on this. :yes: I just went down and flipped the links; much better. The end of the link bolt can still possibly contact the very edge of the leaf if the leaf can compress that much, but that simple move provided at least 3/4" more clearance. Good eye shipmate. :bowdown:

This help? AFAIK the ZJ plates are the same from either axle, and the same as a D35 c-clip axle.