HOrnbrod

Painting an aluminum wheel ruins it and I can't fathom any logical reason for doing it. However, painting steel wheels black I do like if it has the the polished trim rings (called "beauty" rings back in the day) around the outer wheel edge and maybe some polished stainless lug nuts with a polished center cap. That's old school and looks damn good IMO.

Voilà.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/ Download 1981-1986 PDF (37,223 KB)

^^^^ This. Good guy to work with.

Better yet, invest in a factory parts manual for your particular rig, or use one online, so you can at least grab the correct part number, then use it to find what you need at the various vendors sites. It's the best tool you will ever have. Never depend on the parts drones anywhere. Including NAPA.

:rotfl2:

Don't let those 105 cc's get away from you mate. :yes: I had one years ago when I was stationed in Seoul and used it for commuting because of the horrendous traffic there. Was an indestructible little bike and easy to maintain. You will have a lot of fun with it.

Nope - you are not in the minority Eagle. That idiot's video showed a really stupid way to ruin the arguably most iconic wheel Jeep ever produced and make it ugly. YouTube has no regs or guidelines; any moron can post up. What's really amazing to me is that anyone would consider doing this. :hmm:

:thumbsup:

If you do get the FFD rad, consider converting to the open cooling system. Less troublesome and easier to burp than what you have.

Work on your other project.

First post. You just ordered a lift kit, have not installed it yet, and are concerned about wheels/tires. Get your lift installed first on your 86, get it right, then go from there.

Have to ask: have you hot-wired the fan directly to the battery to test if the fan even runs?

For you Bo there is only one appropriate color: Porno Red! What's better than porno and black? Nothing............

A member sent me a pair (thanks Adam), but these were for a Dana 35, and will not fit the D44 axle due to the larger u-bolts and wider hole spacing. And there is not enough metal on them to enlarge the holes to make them fit. There were two separate reinforcement plates available for the MJ throughout the years; one for the D35 axle, and one for the D44; standard and heavy duty. And of course, there are no more available in either flavor. Anyone go SOA with a D44 axle and have these plates left over by any chance or have a clue where they might be available? The HD plate for the D44 is p/n 52002893.

:popcorn:

Damn right. Thanks for posting - enjoyed. :cheers:

Check the harmonic balancer for rubber separation causing contact on the timing cover.

Had similar sized vents on mine before in the same location. They did absolutely nothing to improve cooling the engine bay. Now the present cowl hood - that's a different story.

It should. It references the correct Jeep p/n.

I got mine from a bankrupt dealer in 02. No AMC logo, and had this stamped in the right rear corner. :dunno:

http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/Dana-35-Pinion-Yoke.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=515&t_pt=7940&t_pn=CRO83503318

Very groovy. Too groovy to seal. P/n 83503318 is the one you need. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/pinion-yoke-2-97-overall-height-83503318.html

The cylinder head on your 98 motor should be the 0630 casting. The gauge temperature sensor hole is drilled, tapped, and plugged on at least 50% of these castings. Take a look at the left rear on the head and you may find it's there and plugged. If not, the boss will still be there which you can drill and tap as Cruiser mentioned above.

I was just getting ready to crash when your post came in Rob. Nice odyssey to Ben's place and back. :yes: It actually fits better than the LWB S10 topper I had on for awhile. But the MJ roof profile and height is like no other truck it's size. You are right though, the tent novelty far outweighs the less than stellar fit. I love it! Great job to both of you guys. :thumbsup: