HOrnbrod

^^ Agree. There was a post by a member a few years back who cheaped out on unit bearings - forget who it was. The "offshore" unit bearing separated and the wheel came off while tooling down the highway. This post had pics showing the separation, so if whomever posted it up reads this, please furnish a link.

Some people have bad taste and/or are color blind. :yes:

I think JeepcoMJ did the Buick 3.8 swap - do a search.

But US beer IS pony pi$$, eh?

Image Not Found Proper geometry is obtained when u-joint operating angles A & B (the angles between the drive shaft red centerline and the blue transfer case centerline) are equal using an angle finder. To get the angles equal the axle pinion angle B is adjusted up or down by proper spring perch placement and/or the use of steel wedges between the leaf springs and the perches.

Are your front wheels centered in the wheel wells? Adjustable track bar? I haven't read your build details.......

Hard to photograph..........

That guy has been selling decals on Ebay forever. I've never done business with him, but 99.3% positive feedback is pretty good though.

Yes, the same. This is a decent writeup, but neglected any mention of replacing the inner and outer bearing races as should always be done with new bearings. These should be tapped out of the hub with a brass punch and changed or your new bearings will not last long if the races are worn out and scored. I usually buy National wheel bearings since they come with the races as well as the bearings. Available at O'Reilly's and others. Outer:National - Wheel Bearing Part # A2 Inner: National Wheel Bearing Part # A6

I have been searching for the "perfect" rear shock ever since the rear ZJ N40 / N40L's were discontinued. Tried the 5100 series Bilsteins; okay but too stiff for me. While perusing ARB's catalog I found an OME Nitrocharger shock, # N30 (actually a rear shock for a 96-05 Nissan Terrano R20 whatever that is) with similar specs to the extinct N40 / N40L shocks: N40L expanded 25.8 inches, compressed 15.6 N30 expanded 24.3, compressed 14.4 I called my old buddy TR who works for ARB out in Renton, WA and he had 30 of them left in his warehouse. Ordered, installed, perfect. Not too firm or soft. No bar pins to press out; they have a 5/8" eye on each end and fit the MJ shock mounts as they should. These are great rear shocks for any MJ with a 1"-3" lift. In case you are looking, contact TR at ARB. T.R. Burrus Regional Sales Manager ARB USA: Air Locker, Inc TR Burrus <tburrus@arbusa.com>

^^ This. Dreamin, wishin, and yackin don't git er done. :popcorn:

Custom silver/black poured epoxy knob with a JeeP pin inside.

Any self-respecting MJ would never be caught dead on 2 and 1/2 men. It must be a Toyota in drag........

Agree with not using the teflon tape, but not w/o using a sealer on sensors that ground through the threads. I always use a little non-hardening teflon liquid paste (thread sealer). Will never leak, easy to remove, prevents over-tightening, and no ground problems.

Now that's how to fill up the wheel wells. Looks great. :cheers: You have made me regret selling my original JK wheels................

Free arch will vary greatly depending on the XJ and MJ spring codes. On a side note, it's easy to see that installing MT springs on an MJ with the base leaf springs, you can expect a lift of 2"-3" depending on the MT spring you use. MJ Springs: 7.62" - 9.50" Free Arch (Source: Hell Creek) 980 lb. capacity = 7.62" free arch, OEM part #89-52-002-312, 3+1 configuration 1100 lb. capacity = 8.75" free arch, OEM part #89-52-001-240, 3+1 configuration 1160 lb. capacity = 9.25" free arch, OEM part #89-52-002-351, 3+1 configuration 1220 lb. capacity = 9.75" free arch, OEM part #89-52-001-824, 3=1 configuration 1280 lb. capacity = 10.25" free arch, OEM part #89-52-002-350, 3+1 configuration 1440 lb. capacity = 9.12" free arch, OEM part #89-52-001-825, 4+1 configuration 1700 lb. capacity = 9.50" free arch, OEM part #89-52-003-676, 3+2 configuration XJ Springs: 3-1/8" = 7.00" Free Arch (Source: JU Forum) LL - 3-1/8" free arch, load rating 405 LM - 5-5/8" free arch, load rating 605 LS - 6" free arch, load rating 675 LT - 7" free arch, load rating 755 Up Country Dealer part numbers: 52000050 Standard Duty, Coded LB 52000051 Standard Duty, Coded LC, EC 52000706 Standard Duty, Coded LN, ES 52000544 Heavy Duty, Coded LK 52000545 Heavy Duty, Coded LL, EL 52000707 Heavy Duty, Coded LM 52002390 Heavy Duty, Coded LS 52002392 Heavy Duty, Coded LT ( Up Country package +1” leaf spring)

Most likely it's the starter going bad since it sounds like you have eliminated the battery and mains cables. Especially if you still have the original starter. Possible causes of intermittent slow starter turnover / dragging include: Worn brushes: Over time the brushed get worn down and can make poor intermittent contact with the commutator. These are pretty easy to replace if you can solder. Worn end bushings: Also over time the end bushings can get "egged out" causing the armature shaft to get wobble and get cocked. The armature shaft can then scrape or drag inside slowing the turnover rate. Oil Leaks: Oil dripping on the starter will eventually cause poor brush connections and/or solenoid circuit impedance resulting in slow turnover. You can try to disassemble the starter, clean it up, and replace the brushes if worn down. Back in the day that's what you always did first before replacing. If the end bearings show wear and/or you can see visible scrape marks caused by a wobbling armature shaft, you might as well just replace it. I also experience slow turnover, but very rarely. I still have the original starter so it's not unexpected.

Yes, sounds like the wrong cable. You have to pull the tranny pan to replace it, but it's not too difficult. You will need a new seal where it enters the AW4. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Transmission_and_Transfer_Case/Transmission_Throttle_Cable_Replacement.htm

Part number 34202181, TORX Shoulder Bolt, size M10X15-62 5. Application specific, I doubt it's commercially available.

The throttle cables for the HO and Renix years were different lengths because of the throttle body. The Renix 2.5 and 4.0 models used different cables, and the Renix cables were shorter than the HO cable. All the HO cables were the same, p/n 52079504. Are you using the HO cable?

Mine didn't ratchet either when I first tried to adjust it either, probably because it had never been adjusted before. By spraying it with WD-40 into the sheath while working the button and gently pulling it ( :eek:) it did finally move and ratchet as advertised.

Great pics Willy, and beautiful country out in the Pac NW. This pic I really enjoyed which shows the difference between your bobbed long bed and a normal long bed. To me, your bobbed LWB looks way better than a SWB because of the additional wheelbase. It looks more proportioned. That's the way they should have been from the factory. I'd love to do it on mine not for wheeling, but purely for looks................

I don't see any excess gap in your picture - they look just like my turbine wheels. That's normally how any Jeep factory alloy wheel fits around the wheel stud. Jeep factory wheels are all hub centric, not lug centric. In a hub centric wheel the wheel centerbore fits tightly around the raised ring on the hub. This is how the wheel is centered and the hub supports the weight of the vehicle. The wheel studs and nuts are there to secure the wheel to the mounting plate and are anchored by the matched tapered mating surfaces on the lug nut and wheel stud hole. There should be no "shoulder" below the lug nut tapered seat or they probably won't seat properly.

I stole my wife's Ikea soap dish from the kitchen sink. She asked me what happened to it, said maybe the dog took it? She's ridden in the truck about 100 times since then and never noticed it. She even puts her sunglasses in it. :rotfl2: