HOrnbrod

Umm.. would a hot gal work as well? :) Clever. And corrected. Must be a slow CC night..........

Yes, glued on. Use a heat gun sparingly to soften up the glue and pull off slowly. Then clean the residue off with Goo-Gone or similar. Agree with the roll bar removal. It doesn't look "right" on the truck like a factory bar does IMO.

Probably fried your ignition switch and more. I'd start there..........

Then I'll be a "jerk" and ask why does everyone keep responding to this person's endless questions on a multitude of topics while ignoring all the solutions that have been offered? One of the latest was the yeas and nays of painting turbine wheels. :hmm:

The Autopal housings are a huge improvement over stock with the relay harness and 55w H4 bulbs. The Hella E-code housings are a huge improvement over that. Much improved light dispersion and sharper cutoff. The Hella housings cost more unfortunately but are worth the extra expense.

Sure did w. a fine tooth jig saw.

Some of the following was provided by CC member Rockfrog. Great info. :thumbsup: 87-90 Renix Model Orings 0.799 x 0.103 AS568 size -117 1.296 x 0.139 AS568 size -219 2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size -230 91-92 HO Model Orings 0.676 x 0.070 AS568 size -017 0.859 x 0.139 AS568 size -212 2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size -230 And here is the picture verification of the Renix sizes for those that need it. Cost? About $1.92 after taxes Canadian funds and taxation. Also, the m20x1.5 metric threaded filter nipple in the Renix era 4.0L's can be swapped out for the SAE 3/4''-16 threaded nipple from a 1991 and up XJ/MJ (p/n 53007563AB). This nipple will allow the use of the more common (and higher capacity) PH8A style oil filters and the others listed below. I use Ford's FL-1A myself. Oversize Oil Filters for HO 4.0L Engines (3/4"x16 thread) 5.178" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER AC-Delco PF2, $6.28 Motorcraft FL-1A, $6.49 Purolator L30001, $5.76 Napa 1515, $6.69 Wix 51515, $6.69 Mopar L-72 L-326, L-526, L-55, L-1007, L-138 Baldwin B118, $9.26 Hastings LF115, $8.73 Mobil 1 M1-301, $8.00 Amsoil EaO15, $18.75 Donaldson P550008, $4.21

I'm also looking at roller rockers, making up my mind if the expense is worth the gain. Mainly to tone down the valve clatter from the stroker cam. And do not want the valve cover spacer crap to fit them in, so it will be a non-adjustable kit. Based on the below, I prefer the Yella Terra kit in spite of the extra cost. Good info over on the strokers forum: "I've been running the 1.6 YT's for ~40k miles with aggressive cams and have been very pleased. Great quality stuff, fit and finish are excellent. I'm sure Harland Sharp are as-good or better but the non-adjustable's weren't available when I did my last build. I also feel like the cross-bars used to pair the HS rocker shafts seem like an after-thought, where the YT pairs are truly shaft-mounted and seem more robust/stable in comparison(no offense HS users). Of note though: the roller tips can be a bit noisy as they get some miles(or acquire healthy tolerances ), depending on your lifter preload. Tighter lash helps but isn't always ideal for cam wear. If your looking to quiet down your valve train these might not accomplish what your after. Hate to see you spend that $$ and be disappointed. I did notice crisper throttle response and slightly improved mpg on the highway, 1-2mpg. The higher rpm or bigger cam your running, the more they'll benefit. It's claimed they'll reduce valve-guide wear also, but I can't validate that yet, thankfully! If your looking for all the HP available in your setup, and don't mind the co$t, IMO they're very worth it. I just doubt they'll be quieter than your stock rockers though. Oh, and these can be very useful in dialing-in your setup if your super-OCD-anal like I tend to be." If I do go, it will be the YT's. More reliability over the long haul. Still researching though...........

You can pick up universal 3/16" bubble flared brake line in varying lengths at any chain parts house, pic below. I got a 30" length (Autozone IIRC). Cut it in half, slide your old master cylinder flare nuts on for the master end. Then bend the lines properly to the distribution block (not a prop valve on the MJ), slide your old flare nuts on, then double flare for the distro block end. My existing flare nuts were in good original shape. Use a regulation flare nut wrench when removing the old lines so the nuts can be reused. Easy - peasy.

The 194s are a little brighter thus draw a bit more amps than the 161s, but it should be fine. I used them as subs in the past.

It's hard to believe that was thirteen years ago. It's one of those things that you will always remember exactly where you were and what you were doing when it happened, like Kennedy's assassination. I was on Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands at the time, and because of the time zone we were up all night watching with horror and anger as the tragedy unfolded. I for one will never forget.

Jeep uses GM Saginaw power and manual steering gear; here's their instructions for greasing the manual box. back in the day, I always used to lube them using the chassis grease gun, and squirted it in after removing the top cover. A Word About Lubrication The correct manual steering gear lubricant is GM #12377985 available from most GM dealers. Or use a good quality lithium based grease (ball joint grease in a tube.) Today there are probably synthetic types of greases that may be very acceptable as well. I just don’t have any information on them. You want grease in your gear for lubrication. If you substitute oil in its place, the oil will almost immediately begin leaking. Do not overfill the gear. It only needs to be ¾ full of grease. You need air pockets in the gear to allow for grease expansion with engine temperature. Also there is a ball nut inside the gear that traverses back and forth when you steer right and left. You need air pockets around the nut so that you aren’t always squeezing grease back and forth around the nut and causing friction in the gear. Lastly, some of the oils will separate out of the grease with time. Air pockets in the gear help the internal motion of the gear components to mix the grease.

:thumbsup:

Yeah but China isn't there yet Johnny. They are about where Japan and Korea were after WW2. But they are getting better........

More for sale HERE.

AC Delco, formerly one of the most respected parts vendors, now made in China too. :shake: Why am I not surprised. I'll pass............

The 4.0L starter is the same one as used on the 5.9L engine. It's plenty adequate. Johnny, how's that Amazon Delco unit? Brand new, remanned, or ? "Offshore" unit? I'm thinking about grabbing one.

Autometer.

Measure battery voltage4, not running. It should read about 12.5V. Then put a meter across the battery and measure the charge voltage at just above idle. Should be 13.8 - 14.5 volts or so depending on battery condition. Then turn on lights, fans, blowers, etc. while monitoring the battery voltage. It should remain the same even if your dash voltmeter drops. As long as it charging the battery at full load, no worries. My truck does the same thing on the dash voltmeter ever since I swapped the alternator and installed new mains cables years ago. I suspect it's a wonky dash meter or maybe a dirty connection somewhere between the meter sensing point at the PDC and the meter. It's a pretty common problem. Also do Cruiser's extended cluster ground wire tip for the cluster - that helped me a bit.

Do it. Mine are always quiet. No air or H2O leaks. I love them.

I love them.

Mine don't leak. They never have. You must be feeling better now, back to your old self. Good to see. :cheers:

I think the "Neon" 703 injectors (Bosch 0280155703) might have too much flow for your engine. I am running the same injectors on the stroker and after break-in I had to crank down the pressure regulator to correct the A/F ratio on the meter. The 703's flow quite a a bit more than your stock injectors did.

Actually that is a separate body piece as shown in the diagram below, part number 1, (55028143). It's spot-welded it. I doubt you will ever find a new one though. EDIT: The part number has been changed to 55175386AB. This part looks like it's still available from several sources for around $200.