HOrnbrod

^^ This. ALL 84-01 XJ/MJ models with factory wheels, including the 10-spoke turbine wheels, used the same tapered seat lug nut, p/n J4006956. The only Jeep models that did not use these nuts in this time period were the full-size J-series trucks and Grand Wagoneers.

That's a pretty good option for an MJ hitch. And the spare fits up in there also. :thumbsup:

I had to look it up. :yes: I knew wonk but didn't know wank. This forum is great for picking up useful nuggets of information that help you become a cliché wonk.

From the Urban Dictionary:

Yep.

No, personal stash. Don't need to install yet, but later down the bumpy road. The AB suffix usually designates a supplier change and/or design change; they are interchangeable and backward compatible. Like the front door check; there are at least five different part numbers for it and they all work.

I picked up two NOS sets of XJ/MJ Mopar ball joints locally last year in the original Chrysler packaging from a Craigslist ad, along with a bunch of other Jeep NOS stuff. I'll open them up tomorrow and see what numbers are stamped on them. I have no idea who the supplier was for these.

:drool: Porno red in a black truck. :drool:

Yes, the 2WD and 4WD use the same upper and lower ball joints. The OEM kit (upper and lower) p/n is 83500202.

Looks great. I think I would have cut out and spliced all that extra wire in the harness though. :thumbsup:

Check Autozone anyway.

That's very cool Pete. Those boys will remember tooling around the GA woods in their personal Jeep the rest of their lives. :thumbsup:

Will it fit - yes it should. The harness isn't XJ/MJ specific, it's a universal harness. It's purpose is to provide a safe way to upgrade sealed beams to higher amp H4 bulbs w/o burning up the original amp-limited harness and switch. It accomplishes this by wiring in two separate relays to carry the new H4 HI/LO headlamp loads. After installation, the original harness and headlamp switch is used only to trigger/switch the relay coils, not the H4 load. Edit: On some applications the fused power lead to the battery and/or ground lead may need to be lengthened or shortened. Ideally, the harness should be customized for the shortest route between point A and point B to minimize voltage drops.

Police Cluster w. Extended Idle Panel Don't know WTF is wrong with the speedo. You have replaced the speed sensor, si?, and the speedo itself, so it has to be an intermittent continuity problem. I hate the word intermittent................

However, you are not going to be off-roading it, and aside from the extra heat from the stroker and potential chance of overheating, your system is in far more efficient condition. Any offroad vehicle has increased chance of non-heat related damage. Last thing I want in those situations is to crack a radiator, have to limp it off the trails, and find that I also contaminated $60 worth of ATF, if not wrecking the trans All true and understand your point. I stuck the external tranny cooler in only because I towed a bike trailer with it quite a bit for awhile. I think an external tranny cooler is good to have in any MJ. In colder climates the rad cooler helps warm up the fluid faster, probably the biggest reason it's there. But for warmer climates, the rad cooler isn't really necessary as long as a decent external cooler is plumbed in.

:thumbsup:

That's what I did, but why in hell did they have to use yellow? Must have been all they had in China when they made them up. The only yellow I want to see on my truck is on the shocks.

I've had their harness on for about seven years now switching the Hella E-codes. Zero problems. The only thing I don't like about it is the horrible yellow wire loom.

I have the Modine one. Did you plumb it into the return line? I tried both ways and in taking temps over a period of time it cooled better using the return line.

Cool. Didn't know Dorman made this. :cheers:

I used the radiator cooler and a factory external cooler for the tranny. Works great.

It looks totally worth the $$ Jeff. I'd tool on down I64 in your TJ (or whatever you are driving now) with three $100 bills in your pocket and take a peek. You might even get it for two bills if you like it. Then haul it back at your leisure; it sure ain't going anywhere. I'd have to look at it myself unless someone you really trust volunteers. I think Redwolf lives in VB.............

Metric thread: 12mm x 1.5

He could always look at the casting number on the block. 8933002665, 53005535: 1987-1990 Renix blocks 53008405: 1991-1995 YJ, XJ, ZJ 3010341, 53010449, 53020569: 1996-1998 TJ, XJ, ZJ (except 1998 ZJ) 53020514, 53020515: 1998 ZJ 53010449AA : 1999-2001 XJ, 1999 TJ 53010327AB, 53010328AB: 1999-2004 WJ & 2000-2006 TJ

My 96 block only has the rear drain plug.