GrayWolf1691

I recall not being able to find a rebuild kit for the engine. Checked with autozone today since I was there and they don't have one. I'm figuring a newer engine would have more replacement parts available when needed hence the obd-1 engine and put on my current intake thought. Hone, rings and bearings were suggested already though. I can do a rebuild myself, just don't have the ability to swap it out at home.

Sorry for the late response I've been caught up with work. When I said knock sensor I meant the crank sensor. If motor mounts are no issue, would an obd-1 engine work to drop in and just swap my intake onto it? Or is that over-simplified thinking?

The carb would play two purposes, 1) I wouldn't have to deal with wiring 2) I like fiddling with tuning every once in a while Otherwise there really isn't a reason. My family always had Chevrolet and whenever we ended up with something throttle body injected if something stopped working my dad and brother just tossed a carb on it. I've just been trying to figure out the least labor intensive option available since I don't have a lot of time on my hands.

My neighbor does have a 98 2.5, I haven't had time to talk to him about it. If he has the wiring and ecm and stuff and it'll drop right in I can deal with wiring on my own time. If mounts aren't an issue then that solves 80% of my problem. Thanks Pete.

Compression readings 4 years ago were about 130 across the board. I moved to Washington a bit north of Seattle, traveled to Eugene, Oregon to get it. Oil blows out the dipstick tube and coated the front of my car in oil that a buddy was driving back for me. Fair amount of spitting and sputtering but it made the drive. I appreciate the offer but I have a neighbor that would do it for cheaper.

I recently got my Jeep back after parting with it 4 years ago. In that time the ol 2.5's rings have started giving up. My cheapest option is to obviously put another 2.5 back into it. I have an ax-4 transmission. I had played with putting a 4.0 in but currently that is an option that will have to wait. But I was told with an OBD 1 4.0 you could use the intake manifold from an old 4.2 to convert it to carb. So I was wondering if I'd be able to get away with an OBD 1 crate 2.5 and be able to swap the intake manifold and if the knock sensor mounting would be the same and if motor mounts are the same. The shop I asked for quotes is trying to tell me I'm looking at $10k to do a 4.0 swap which seems excessive. Hell, I'd be happy if I could get by carbing an OBD 1 2.5 for the time being. If someone is able to help I'd really appreciate it. I'm at a loss how to proceed with it.

Well, I never was able to figure it out but she just kept getting progressively worse and finally caved and sold her off. Thanks for trying to help guys.

I have no way of accurately testing it - I don't have a tach and no one to help me with it. But it was running 16 pounds of vacuum at an idle... though from that section doesn't seem like a reliable way to tell if there is a problem since the problem occurs under power. Would it make a difference if it's being driven down the road vs sitting at an idle?

I tighten the manifold bolts periodically and just figured out how to get to the underside bolts recently, one of them was close to falling out - wouldn't have been the first one either. I've also strapped on an inverter ground wire to better ground the engine, did that last year; when I get the time I'll also be cleaning the ground wire at the dipstick tube. I actually just got a new hose on the map sensor last night and tomorrow am replacing the one for the ccv. Um... how do I test for exhaust restriction?

I've previously had problems with it cutting out like it was starving for fuel but that cleared up after about a year and a half of ownership and 5 tanks of premium after finding out renix systems run better on it. But I've had my suspicions with it since the truck sat for 5 years shortly before I got it. Is there a way to clean the injector vs replacing it? Nope, the cat is clear, I had checked that a while back, and found out why mufflers are installed...

So, about two months ago I put in a new map and tps sensor as well as a new fuel filter and for about a week and a half my truck was feeling pretty spiffy. Came to realize my fuel filter had been installed backwards and flipped her around and gained back most of my power... briefly. A day or two after I developed a ticking and at first couldn't identify if it was vacuum or exhaust leak so since they were pretty much trash anyway, I replaced the vacuum lines and my idle got smoother and the truck drove a little better. This last weekend figured out that the egr is trash so bypassed it completely. Running even smoother and loss of power takes a little longer to rear its head. My ccv from the valve cover to the manifold had snapped and so I linked it back together with rubber hosing and have been having enough blowby to get oil on the air filter and it's pushing oil into the rear ccv line causing the rubber to swell and the seal is no longer effective. I had capped off the manifold side but that really only improved smoothness in the idle and maybe while cruising but did take away power while accelerating. Which is the only time I experience loss of power... under acceleration while driving. I used to be able to cruise over my daily commuting hill at 60 mph I believe it's a 6% grade and I'm now losing about 15 mph and even dropping a few mpg's. Compression is 125-120-120-130 and has been that way since I got her. I am going to be getting the rear ccv line replaced, haven't found a direct replacement for it so decided I'd just use some silicone to seal in a hardline but I don't think that'll be the end of my problem. It feels like something is preventing enough fuel/air to enter the engine. And it kind of feels like I'm driving into a cushion of air when I am aggressive with the throttle, like it doesn't get that it should be pushing in more fuel and air. I am at my wits end and haven't found any similar problems that gave any more solutions than what I've done short of rebuilding and cleaning the throttle body unit. Oh, the air filter and O2 sensor are relatively new as well, and the fuel pump is still good.

Down by Roseburg

Yep. I will simplify what I want to know then... What axles should I got with front end and rear end to handle 35's, 300 hp, and abuse?

I'm not sure of the differences between the 4.0 and the 2.5 but I believe 90 was still renix controlled... I had a similar problem on my 2.5 though my problem occurred at an idle and always stayed up around a guess of 2500 rpm. I did 2 things to solve the problem, the first was my manifold bolts were loose and I had lost a bolt, and the other was strapping on a 1/2" thick ground wire from the engine to the unibody which smoothed everything out. I would also suggest replacing any old cracking vacuum hoses. A guy at my local O'Reilly's said he had this problem and his turned out to be the manifold gasket itself. Good luck!

It's a $400 truck, I picked up the 4 spd with TC for $50... but still, yes - I love my truck. It's mostly happened when I find steep hill crests and we're doing 50+mph, being airborne isn't something I try to do, like you said because it's a unibody as well as destroying various suspension parts but things happen. And I know it's not totally realistic, I'm rolling with an idea that sounded awesome to me and am gradually putting it into perspective. As for other trucks, MJ's look cooler in general, there's not many around so there's that unique factor, plus I have it. I really don't want a full size because they're too wide and heavy for my taste - the sub compact category trucks have an easier time following random atv trails or random overgrown trails that haven't been used in forever. I have no intention of destroying it, but should it happen I'd rather it die in the hands of someone that cares about it. That is freaking amazing! Thank you for this picture, it helps a lot putting tire size into perspective. 36's or 37's were what sounded like they'd fill up the wheel wells good. I was fortunate enough to park next to a guy's TJ yesterday who's sitting on 35/11.5/15 I believe they were. Me sitting on 225/75/15 his tires came up to the top of the 1 inch flat side of my fender flares - after seeing that I'm thinking 35's will fill the wells like I want and after looking in there I think they'd fit perfectly with folding out the fenders and a little inner fender removal if necessary. My brother's father-in-law has a Bronco II that I believe had the 8.8 swapped under it, he said it was posi, but that's all the more I know. Well, $ is a barrier but depending on the pricing I'd rather go with what'll hold up better in the long run. That being said, would dropping down to a 35 make much of a difference on axle stress vs say a 37? I had read about the D30 having an upgraded u-joint, does the D44 have the same option? Also, like I said in my last response to dunnc1991 I think a 35 will fit the bill for my plans more or less perfectly and I don't know how that would affect the axles. With the fenders I am wanting to pull them outward and up - for a lack of a better word, baja the fenders, to make the clearance room. And I am planning on finding a heavily offset wheel. I haven't had any problems up front but the back tires even on 225/75/15 I've rubbed the frame. The main reason I am avoiding lifting it is because it's a unibody so everything sits lower than say an s-10; it has a lower center of gravity and can get away with more sideways abuse since it's not as top heavy. The guy I bought it from loved the truck for that very reason, he has a field and was slinging her around pretty good. So, lifting it would take a little of the fun factor out of my driving style.