Jeepman

Interesting Indeed so I just pulled both style apart and they are technically different just as posted..

Ya I have done the WJ upper/Lower swap for a customer and they were pleased but Id still replace the arms before bushings its just a lot easier for the arm then messing with the bushing...

Damn that's pricey for two arms, I just sold a pair of WJ front lower arms for $60 each CDN so roughly $40 each US

They are cheap new on ebay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/AW4-Jeep-Comanche-Cherokee-Transmission-Neutral-Safety-Switch-87-to-96-OEM-NEW-/252474135525?hash=item3ac8a193e5:m:m5EZX49LAtMm_Dj13HaW_VA&vxp=mtr

Ya New Arms Are Cheap and Much easier to do then a bushing change and Can't remember the last time I changed a bushing instead of the entire Arm and it was Probably on the front axle where you have no other option then to change the bushing... The is a Special spacer that your suppose to use to insert between the inside and outside to prevent the tube from collapsing but I have never gotten around to purchasing it yet...

For the Front a WJ swap is a great upgrade to 12" rotors and dual piston calipers... For the Rear G2 makes a Bolt on kit with everything you need for 91+ D35/D44 and 8.25 and the kit is cheap

Aprox 8" lift on 35's with custom axles... Image Not Found

I heard they are doing away with the fold down windshield altogether for the next Wrangler so it should be gone by the 2017's

Nice Job but No necessarily so true... I have stamped steel 2door/4door XJ Rocker on my MJ and they fit and look like MJ rockers, its all in the product so buy the Good stamped steel panels and trim to fit... Love how mine turned out and you can get them at any LKQ Keystone Distributor... Image Not Found Image Not Found

Oh the Truck is coming that's a fact but what remains unknown is if it will in fact be based on the gladiator concept or just another Stupid 4 door truck like AEV's JK brute, personally I feel if its just another 4 door truck then I see no reason for it and if you need that much space buy a RAM or another already made 4 door truck so hopefully they already get that since RAM has been the largest reason for the delay...

Yup me too Just not a fan of 4 door pickups, if they do not then I will continue my plans to make my own...

I just slide a small Deep socket in there although Whenever I have replaced the brushes the new one came with a plastic sleeve already installed which makes it easy to slide in... Oh and here is a cheap place to buy what your looking for... http://alternatorstarterparts.com/ They have a repair kit for like $38

Just an FYI... The TF999 was NON fuel injection (NO CPS so you would need a relocate kit if using on Fuel injected 4.0L) and its without a lock up converter The 32RH is the modern version of the TF999 for fuel injection (has CPS mount) and has a lockup converter... Try Car-part.com to find a 32RH which was 91-03 As I think they switched in 04 to the 42RLE (basically 32Rh with an electronic 4th gear)

I try to keep my RPM's as close to stock number or lower whenever possible so its really about what are you after, more power or better mileage as you will rarely get both...

You should really join jeepstrokers.com although they tend to be one directional most times... There is plenty of info out there but when I started piecing mine together I followed a few recipes and if I were to do it again I would likely do it differently now that I know a lot more about Jeep stroker engines... but Like eagle said just save everything till you know what your replacing or what your re-using because different strokes for different folks right...

Speedy and other Major Brand name glass shops in Canada are Stupidly over priced... In Ontario a Glass installed is about $160 from pretty much anywhere except a Major Brand Glass shop and that's a mobile shop to where they come to you... The glass will fit all years of XJ and I have the Newer 97+ glass and rubber seal installed in my MJ and no fitment issues or complaints from my glass guy... Just find someone else to do the job as it sounds more like an " i don't want to install your glass" kinda shop

They would probably last longer out of some durable plastic as well...

You need to drill them out and re- rivet new ones on however there are NONE available anymore (I kinda bought up everything I could find in North America a few years ago and I think I have 10 left of the longer ones) If you can find good ones in the Junkyard you can drill the rivets and re-use them... They are two different sizes These are the tailgate side Part Number 5500-4888 The Box Side Part number 5500-4883 There might be some Old stock left out there that I didn't get because it wasn't listed with Chrysler at the time I cleaned them out so you can search the part numbers to see if someone has any...

I am 97+ everything so I don't have the old Comfort/Power switch

:hijack: Tell us more................... Not much to tell really but between 80-100KPH (roughly 50-65MPH)I am rev-ing around 1400-1500RPM and the factory stall speed is 1800-2000RPM so I would have to manually downshift to 3rd to get the RPM's up because I didn't like stressing the stock converter so I had a custom converter made that dropped my stall speed to around 1500RPM (what it is exactly I can't say because they couldn't be sure and said it would be 300-500RPM less then stock) but I think I need a little lower cuz I am just at the 1400-1500RPM however I think I will be better once the supercharger goes on but that's just a theory and won't know till I get around to it as I have been very lazy about it due to still wanting to keep the AC that I have never charged up yet... So far I am pleased with it and have a little more pedal power at a lower RPM instead of always revin up to move but I would rather that then too tall a gear and always reving high...

I guess I am the Exception... 4.0L Stroker to 4.7L (needs more tuning) AW4 (custom lowered stall converter) 3:73 gears 35" MT MTZ's Header and full 2.5" mandrel Exhaust Truck weighs in just over 4200lbs with me and a full tank I try to baby it but its too much fun not to so my AVG is 10-13MPG city, HWY I do baby it but haven't gone on a long enough HWY drive to test what it is...

It would be a great Winter Driver/second vehicle... I have been looking for the SX4 for a very long time and Rarely find one cheap enough to grab as a project... Id vote Do it...

Get one from Rockauto.com

You can Have OBDI or OBDII without changing your dash but if you want the newer OBDII dash but not the 97+ then yes you need a 95-96 XJ dash and interior harness... I wouldn't go with the Dodge Engine as the starter and battery are on the opposite side and you would need the trans to match at least it was for the 92 Dakota engine I transplanted into a 95 Jeep YJ so its doable but not ideal... Basically install engine and be sure to have pulled the engine harness from the donor vehicle... ​ You strip back the new harness and either just add it (its 3 wires that need to be connected in the most basic way) or remove all items that are not used (I prefer this method as its a cleaner look) to simply get your oil pressure and temp gauges to work you just install your old sensors into the new engine with the new engines sensors and its easy as that in the simplest of ways possible that is old sensors go to your old gauges and the new sensors talk to the PCM...

If the snow is that deep....I'm in the wrong vehicle. Besides snow wheelin sucks unless it's cold enough to stay on top. Who said anything about snow wheeling, this is just for plowing through the snow on the streets :) ...