Jeepman

When I needed a New Sender (a good 8+ years ago) I just bought an OE XJ sender (you can still buy them new today) and then I altered it into an MJ Sender and Had me a Brand new MJ Sender for only my time and the cost of the OE XJ one...

Ok I see a lot of miss info here so I wanted to chime in... what I see misunderstood is not that you have a larger regulator or larger injectors but how your mixing them... Example... Your Stock system is 31psi @ idle and 39psi without vacuum which is usually on acceleration... Your Factory injectors which vary in size but roughly in and around 20-21lbs run at 39psi so the mustang injectors you installed need to be run at the pressure of the mustang otherwise they are larger or smaller then they were intended for... So if you have a 24lbs injector (typical mustang injector for a 5.0L) and running at lets say 38psi (I do not know what the actual pressure is for the mustang) would mean that the injectors your running will be around 25.5lbs which is way too large for a Stock engine unless you have done a lot of upgrades... If you have the bosch part number on the injector I can run them to see what the lbs and psi are for that specific injector... Either return your regulator to stock 31-39psi or match the pressure to bring down the mustang injectors... I run Both an in cab A pillar pod with A/F Gauge and electronic Fuel pressure gauge as I prefer to see what my fuel is when I am on the throttle but my system is now OBDII 49psi constant and I run a 4.7L Stroker engine...

Definitely Strange which makes me think its not actually a CJ or else the person that swapped it in had no clue what they were doing... I have had many of people bring me their so Called CJ only to be a YJ with a CJ front end conversion... I too am a Fan of the AMC 20 rear Axle in 2 piece form as I am not a fan of the 1 piece shafts (if you ever worked on one you'd know why) Plus the more common reason and not just the hub spinning due to too much torque but more the fact that when taken apart people over look the importance of keeping the Hub and Shaft together as what most don't know is that the hub from new has NO splines in it, the shaft splines are kind of cut into the hub when they are installed for the first time which is what keeps them together with the small alignment key... I have a Spec sheet somewhere from AMC back in the day to fix the hub spinning which was to machine the key larger then machine a second key on the opposite side, I would do this mod before ever going to 1 piece shafts... I ran my 2 CJ's with 2 piece shafts and never had Hub issues and my last CJ had a lot of HP and easily spun 35's no problem...

Yup which resembles a WW1 helmet...

3.4 is my Vote...

That's what I thought by the picture but was hoping I was wrong... I leave my wiper on all the time and usually opening it to the first notch is plenty for me so no prop rods for me... Thanks for the info..

How is the clearance with the Cowl Hood? that's the only thing stopping me from this Mod but now that I see it on yours although it looks tight I may have to reconsider this mod... If possible can you snap some more pics from the other side.. Thanks in advance...

Ya $300 seams high to me... Around me it's like $60.00 a Weld and the tube which is usually like $7-10 a foot then balance so id say it would be more reasonable around $150-$200

It is weird but not surprising... My Donor truck was a 98 and that's were my Canister came from...

The u-joints will be fine as this is a very common thing to do although I have mostly done this by shortening the Front XJ/MJ shaft for install into YJ's and TJ's... But lengthening will work just the same...

Nope they were under the 98+ XJ as well for sure maybe not the 97's... AT least up here and I can't see them changing just for Us up Here... I have parted out several XJ's now mostly 98+ but they were all under the jeep...

Some 2000+ Mustangs come from the factory with Spacers so I see no issue with them nor have I ever had any issues with them... Usually the ones with issues are the ones that were not installed correctly ie: not torqued down properly or the surface area was not clean and flat which allows an improper tightening...

This seller offers a nice set of options! I like it. Nice in deed...

That's the same as the 97+ XJ's and what I am using in my 97+ conversion... Rockauto has them listed...

Haha, That's actually a very fitting punishment imo. Should be manditory enrollment for people that fake being military. I so Agree to this... I think that would be the best punishment

Some people... However (devils advocate here) I wish the video was edited with facts so that those of us that do not know the correct answers would see that he is lying rather then just this guy calling him out as maybe the guy making the video is not 100% accurate or maybe he is...

I'm trying to picture how this happens. I had replaced the bearings on the driver's side, but not this side. Bearing failure will take out the retainer as well... When you did the DS did the new bearing come with the retainer or did you re-use the one you pulled off

D35's up to 89 are NON clip 1990+ are C-clip... Looks like you lost the bearing and retainer which is what holds the axle in... This is why you NEVER reuse the bearing retainer...

I've been considering one of these kits also. Jeepman, did your transmission issues start after you installed the kit? How did it actually affect the shifting? Because I swapped transmissions at the same time as the engine install and shift kit I can not say if the shift kit had anything to do with the issues but I am pretty sure the trans I used turned out to just be a Bad transmission but before it died completely I could feel the firmer (MUCH FIRMER) shifts and I did the 1-2 mod which converts 1-2 to just 1... When I get the new VB gaskets I will re-install the kit come spring... You can just unbolt the tube from the engine and pull the tube with the pan then separate once on the ground... I did this exact shift kit however I had to remove it due to transmission issues... (bad trans) I got mine on EBay... The $#!&ty part about the kit is that it doesn't include valve body gaskets so I attempted to re-use mine and it worked but they were so brittle that pieces started breaking off and I did not learn that the gaskets were a MUST replace till after I already started the install so GET GASKETS FIRST which are not the easiest to get mine are on order from a guy on ebay so I will see what he sends me and let everyone know who needs gaskets... Thank you very much for the heads up on the VB gasket, I was able to find one locally at a transmission repair shop so I'll have that handy , as far as the dip stick tube on the pan I was able to separate the 2 pieces successfully a few months ago when I did my tranny filter and replaced my coolant lines with AN hoses so I'm hoping it will not that much of a hassle this time, Jeepman ir it really difficult to do? i"ve heard it requires drilling a few holes, can I use a regular hand drill ?or is a drill press required? thank you. There are 2 gaskets for the VB so get both the upper and lower... As for the difficulty, no it was rather easy once you get started and a regular cordless drill is more then enough so you do not need a drill press...

You can just unbolt the tube from the engine and pull the tube with the pan then separate once on the ground... I did this exact shift kit however I had to remove it due to transmission issues... (bad trans) I got mine on EBay... The $#!&ty part about the kit is that it doesn't include valve body gaskets so I attempted to re-use mine and it worked but they were so brittle that pieces started breaking off and I did not learn that the gaskets were a MUST replace till after I already started the install so GET GASKETS FIRST which are not the easiest to get mine are on order from a guy on ebay so I will see what he sends me and let everyone know who needs gaskets...

WOW that's Bad first speed bump and that exhaust is gone.... I considered for about all of 1 second ok maybe 3 seconds about true dual exhaust but the pipes would need to be around 2" to get everything tucked up and out of the way nice then the muffles and cat's but I just might be a little more finicky then most and really I couldn't see the actual advantage with an inline engine so 2" Mandrel all they way... I am happy with how mine turned out and would love to hear a MJ with true duals that is not a hack job and see how it sounds...

IF I owned a Miata I would do something like this to it... https://www.staceydavid.com/projects/19427/banshee-2299

Still available... http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/BOOT-Gear-Shift-Lever/6927781/52104217.html

was it working and then stopped or has it never worked? If never worked maybe the relay was removed which is why you can't see it otherwise it should be there... I don't have a picture of a Dash to look up...

You will not hear a click if the relay is bad or doesn't have power... should be Driver side if my memory is correct...