Jeepman

Looks decent enough if the price is right and the slipping trans can easily be swapped out as said with a 4WD version or if your mechanically inclined merge the 2WD and 4WD transmissions to convert a 4WD to 2WD and if not comfortable in doing it yourself then Drop them at a tranny Shop... Here is a Breakdown of the AW4 and since you have the 2WD version already then you have the only parts that I believe are different and that looks like the tail housing and output shaft.. http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/graphics/Catalog-pdf/A340.pdf I would give it a try or Just have the 2WD AW4 rebuilt...

Thanks it has been along time coming and still Lots more to go... Then I will build another one with all I have learned from this one...

911 Affected us All

Yes Bushwackers for the flares and Pics PMed...

I Like... Too bad its 8 Hours away and my Truck is down for my Stroker swap or Id be on my way to get it...

I tried a Ranger Tonneau and didn't like the fitment... I used one from a 04-10 Chevy/GMC Canyon/Colorado... This is the only Pic I have right now... Image Not Found

Yes I ran them in my MJ D30 for years (NON Disco)... As said a bolt in and only Mod needed is if you have a Disco D30... I was Going thru u-joints about 1 a year then switched to ZJ CV's and ran them for 6 years without issues then Switched to WJ Front D30 which has them as well...

Looks good but I will be good with the matching front WK Brembo's and will upgrade all rotors to drilled and slotted eventually. I will look into the 2013 calipers if they are 6 piston as the 2008 is only 4 piston front and rears.

Sorry Its been a while since I had a renix XJ in my shop...

I already have a WJ front D30 so I will be installing a set of Front WK SRT8 front Brembo's and custom make caliper brackets, it should actually be pretty easy but that will have to wait... I recently lost #2 Cylinder and exploded the piston so I am expediting my 4.0L stroker (4.7) right now and Trans mods...

Its purely Strength and Yes you can always assemble your own kit, as for what parts to use well that becomes your choice of vehicle you want to use them from and you will still have to fabricate the actual tie rod and Drag link as I doubt there is a 1 ton OE out there with the same width...

Rockauto.com and I think You have to use one from a 91-95 4.0L if memory serves me correctly... Shouldn't be too expensive..

My Vote would be JCR

Thanks guys. I look forward to checking out a few. PM me more info on your friends MJ and thanks cruiser I will consider it but I am more after cheaper trucks since the cost to get it back home will not be that cheap.

Sounds good. I will no better when I get there. Thanks Alex

I am planing on looking for some Comanche's when I get out there. PM me your details and I will see what I can do to stop and have a closer look. Thanks.

Too bad I am not going to Florida next week on my vacation as I am heading to Arizona and California and Nevada... I will be on the Comanche lookout when I get there that's for sure...

I like the Cast but I too Feel it Just won't, no Just can't be a Mad Max Movie without Mel... I am sure it will be a Great Movie but Unless it is a Remake of the original which I am not sure if it is or not just Yet as IMDB.com does not mention it as a Remake and if not a Remake I don't feel it as part of the series ... As for the James Bond Mention well remember the Bond Movies are Never intended to be a series that ties into each other film besides the character Names...

If you can Fab then I would say build your own supercharger mount and get the Eaton M90 off a Mustang or Thunderbird Supercoupe from eBay or your Local Junk yard... That's what I am doing but for a 4.7L stroker... And it will cost you far less then $2500.00

OBDII upgrade with upgraded exhaust front to back 2.5" with high flow cat, Rugged Ridge Header, 99+ intake manifold, 62MM Throttle Body, dual 10" electric fans, Ford Mustang 24lbs injectors. There maybe a thing or two i am forgetting.

Yes it will be a good jump in power. My current 4.0L with bolt ons was very powerful as it was with bolt on upgrades but the stroker is going to be at least 100HP over stock. I plan on Supercharging it as well but not till later on as I was planning on fabricating the stroker while the engine was in the build stage so I will have to find another down the road to use as the donor.

Thought I threw a Rod and Figured perfect timing to install my 4.7L Stroker Engine I have been building for a while now but just wasn't in a Hurry to finish... Took the Engine out to see how bad the Rod was and low and Behold it was not the Rod... So Its Time for this to go in... The Engine has been installed into my truck for maybe 5 years now and ran beautifully with no hiccups except I was always loosing coolant and could not find where it was going so my guess is someone before me must have cooked it a few times and somehow damaged the cylinder wall and most likely cracked the wall which is where my coolant was going all this time... Changed my oil and not even a week later I fire her up and a rat tat tat tat she a went... So time for some more upgrades to the Old MJ... Will try to take assembly pics but I am sure you have all seen the inside of an engine or two... Just waiting on some 505 performance parts and some Hesco parts to arrive but then I will be down south in Arizona/California and Nevada from the 10-the 24th good thing I am flying or my vacation would be in trouble...

car-part.com This is a wrecker database that may help you in searching for the nest price and options... Not sure where you guys are getting your info but I have a Shop with first hand experience and part out most of the Jeep Models (no Liberty's, Patriots or Compass Yet) and the 4.0L engine is EXACTLY the same from 91-99 regardless of which Jeep it is in, the 00-06 is another story as the bosses are different from those Years in a TJ/WJ However the 00-01 XJ 4.0L has the same bosses as the 91-99 but the head is the coil pack head and the alternator style changes to the internally regulated instead of the 91-99 externally regulated plus the other electronics that go with the 00+ changes... Also as stated earlier the 00+ head has smaller exhaust ports but if you have a 99 you may find that you have the smaller two piece manifolds but the head is the larger port heads as MOPAR cheated and used the old head with the newer manifolds... Just an FYI

I understand the need to know the proper setup and most here have nailed it... Most important thing is the trailer brakes setup properly because the load is heavier then the vehicle towing it (Just like any Semi out there) I Run a 97+ XJ Booster and a WK SRT8 rear D44 (for the 4 piston Brembo brakes as I am soon to install my Stroker and I tow a lot) and a WJ Front D30 (dual piston Calipers Soon to be Brembo 4 piston) Custom Heavy Duty receiver Hitch Bolted and Welded to the X Frame... You don't want a lot of Sidewall on your tires either because it will allow too much side to side float when braking hard which is commonly overlooked and Is likely why most get scared when braking while towing and think it is a problem with the trucks towing capacity... Properly distributing the weight in the trailer and the proper hitch receiver height to keep that tongue weight is very impotant... I have towed LOTS with Both my Lifted CJ7 and My MJ and just by observation I see far too many people out there with improper setups Just like the Post before me as you can see by the side shot too much tongue weight or box is loaded down to heavy or week rear leafs Etc Etc Etc...

I bought Jeep out of all the remaining Tailgate strap rubber bumpers when I first setup my shop and still have about 15 or so left kicking of the larger ones and the last few smaller ones for future use and also I bought the last remaining Latch/strap that existed too... I put them away for later when My rubber bumpers fail and I may need to change my one as the strap on the DS slipped under one and damaged it so I have to be careful closing my tailgate so the strap doesn't rattle..