Jeepman

Ya that suck to start and not get to finish... I am likely going to just fab my own mounts and try to lower the engine as much as possible but the manifolds come close to the unibody frame rails so not sure what's going to happen when the engine twists under torque so we shall see...

I wasn't asking for anything but thanks for clarifying that, figured you would have cut the hood although I do not want to but if that's the only option then so be it, and I can see you fab-ed the mounts copying the OE ZJ DS mount... After doing this for someone else I am glad I went stroker instead, but its still a fun build nonetheless... Thanks for the info...

Sweet... I am doing a 5.9L swap into an XJ for a customer right now and found this thread, I was going to go this way for my MJ but went stroker instead so back to figuring out the engine mounts since the engine sits up so high, I can't figure out how the OP made those mounts work because at that same level I can't close the hood but don't have 2 more inches to drop...

This thread is a little old but here is an option for better air intake and more HP... http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?partid=24773

2 door XJ Bushwackers here... Image Not Found Image Not Found This ones a little dirty but its the only real side shot I have which was when I did my SRT8 D44 install

I have done hundreds or clutch jobs and always had the flywheel machined and NO machine shop has ever heard of convexing the surface(non that I have ever dealt with) and all have been machined as a normal flywheel would be and NOT 1 failure nor can I conceive any reason why the machine surface would do any damage so that leave's it to installation error and since people never own there own mistakes they blame anything and anyone instead... Now having said all that if you can get a NEW flywheel for $50 then you jump on that because I can not get a new one for anywhere near that price so $50 to machine one is about the going rate here...

Not at all interested in any Jeep Truck if it is a 4 door, and if that data is correct then we won't likely see a truck for sale for another 2 years once that billion dollars is spent so until I see them on the dealer lot Its all BS articles just to get you to click to the website... Its Gladiator style concept for me or nothing at all but I do love that Wagoneer concept just not sure I would own one...

I run these on my MJ but with the Black back instead of the chrome and like them very much although I didn't buy them from ebay, I got them from my wholesaler... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/7x6-45W-6054-H6054-Cree-Sealed-Beam-LED-Crystal-Clear-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Headlight-/182369198575?hash=item2a760d21ef:g:S5cAAOSwnbZYFF5a&vxp=mtr And something like these in my 07 Liberty, just a better version also not bought from ebay... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-Fanless-Canbus-9007-HB5-36W-LED-Headlight-Kit-4000LM-6000K-White-H-L-Bulbs-/281922576559?fits=Year%3A2007%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3ALiberty%7CSubmodel%3ALimited&hash=item41a3e520af:g:xwYAAOSwpzdWrBj6&vxp=mtr

If you can do this then just order the builder parts and make a proper track bar otherwise Just order one new already made for your application they are not expensive

Thanks guys... I Own and operate a small offroad shop so labour is something I never have to pay and I am not concerned about how much money I will get back as I didn't build my truck with intentions of selling it and I have been doing this long enough to know you do not spend money into a project to get a return on it, but since a part of my business is parting out jeeps even mostly Stock jeeps I know what I can get for my not so stock parts... I did but over a 12 year period and some items can transfer to other projects but it was never about the money as I built with no budget Id never chop the hood especially since they are not easy to come by these days, and I just want a new to new-er vehicle been driving old stuff (rebuilt but still old) for all my life so time for something new but unless they start making new I will have to build a newer JK into what I want and that is the Gladiator concept truck or something close to it... OH and love that rendition of a JK which may have just inspired a few ideas... I SOOOO hope they make a 2 door JK truck preferably a cab and a half but definitely NOT a 4 door but we shall see...

Well some of you here have seen my MJ build and Its time to move onto another Project either another MJ or onto my JK Truck build (kind of like the gladiator Concept) unless they actually build a JK pickup next year... So since I haven't had any luck selling off my MJ as a whole since people just don't see the value in my Truck which is listed for $8500 CDN roughly $6500US so that means I will likely start parting it out in the New Year which will net me nearly double but it will take much longer to part out then to just sell it... Image Not Found This is what I have done to the Truck - Fresh 4.7L Stroker Engine (26K KM Since I built it)(supercharger to be installed very soon but I have been busy with other things) - AW4 4 Speed Automatic Transmission (custom low stall converter dropped to around 1500RPM) - NV242 Select trac - WK rear D44 with Brembo Bakes and Front WJ D30 (soon to have Brembo brakes for the front) - Aprox 8" of lift with Rough Country Long Arm kit and SOA rear in the rear - Custom Mandrel bent 2.5" Magnaflow SS Tubing - Vision 18x9 rims 5x5 bolt pattern, 35" Mickey Thompson MTZ's - Bushwacker flares painted to match body colour - Aftermarket Steel Cowl Hood (this is the one item I probably will just keep) - Winch (SOLD Already) - Warn Winch Bumper (probably get this blasted and re powder coated) - Custom rear Hitch - Extang soft tri-flip Bed cover - Linex-ed Box - 7" pop up DVD player Stereo with 4 Hertz 5.25" speakers - Viper alarm with Remote start - Custom 23G fuel tank - Uni-Body Frame stiffeners - A-pillar Guages (Autometer A/F and Fuel pressure) - A/C is Charged but I may pull it for a Custom Supercharger - Criuse not working (do not know exactly why as I never gave it enough attention) - interior needs finishing (plastic to be re-installed and painted) - Overhead console needs finishing or removal (more like removal as I didn't have a plan when I started building it) - some body work is needing attention - DS floor work needed - Windshield is broken - cab corners need to be redone Most of you know the amount of work that goes into building a Conversion truck and I will update this and move it to the classifieds when it comes to parting it out... Thanks EDIT: This is not a sales thread it is Me discussing what to do with my Project that I have been building for the last 6+ years or so and although I feel the end will be chopping the truck up for another project or to sell off this is not why its posted here, maybe its just a mild rant at the fact I am bored with the truck and want to move forward with something else or to converse with others feeling the same way about there projects...

This is the way to go if you want to stay U-joints... Personally I got sick of changing u-joints every year or so and switched to ZJ CV shafts and never changed one again in my MJ and ran the same CV shafts for the next 6 years till I did a Hub conversion and had to go back to U-joints but they were the 297's and a locker but rarely had the hubs unlocked...

I find that interesting since a mech Fan pulls very little CFM at idle, where an electric fan is pulling the same CFM at idle as at full RPM and a Good electric is pulling more CFM then a high RPM mech... It really boils down (pun intended) to quality of the electric fan/fans used and the better the fan the higher the CFM... I keep meaning to read the CFM flow across the rad with a mech fan @ idle and @ high RPM to get a proper # of Stock CFM used to cool the radiator and compare to the electric fan in same setup... Glad its all fixed up for the OP..

I run the same style LED's that are in the first Post and comparing them to my previous H4 HID's I say they are very similar and the only real difference I found so far is the High beam distance... The LED H4 lamps are Great with the correct H4 lens and ONLY if the LED is a quality kit and not the single LED replacements you can buy for Cheap... No heat output is a problem if your in a very high snow area but if you do what you should do anyways which is clean your vehicle off clear of snow then you shouldn't have an issue but if your one of those idiots out there that only clean 2% of the windshield so you can barely see then you are not going to do well with LED's but then again you should just stop driving altogether...

Electric fan conversions get better HP/fuel economy on a conventional style fan replacement but as the XJ/MJ fan is offset so the load is not the same on the engine so the numbers are better but not as good as say a CJ/YJ/TJ... My customer feedback for CJ/YJ/TJ's has been on average an extra 50KM per tank of fuel (roughly an extra 30miles per tank) I have yet to get any real feedback on XJ/MJ's because most MJ/XJ customers don't do the conversion and when I did mine the first time I got maybe 15-20KM per tank with a 15G tank but with my stroker I did 100 things at the same time so I can not know when the increase is with my now larger 23G tank...

I have been running dual 10" 1200CFM fans for over 6 years now with NO issues and 2 of those years has been with my 4.7L stroker engine... My setup is Dual 10" aftermarket fans Proform I think was the brand and Derale Adjustable NPT thermal switch mounted to a custom fan bracket (ignore the Aluminum rad it was just for mock up) I agree with others with it likely being other issues but see no reason why not to use electric fans...

BINGO..... Diff fluid and RTV are Cheap enough, and getting the actual ratio's if different will be better then guessing what the ratio's are as the turn the pinion count is not all that accurate...

I thought from the day I heard he was running that he would win, interesting how quiet the nay sayers got once the pole counts were coming in... The next few years are going to be interesting that's for sure...

Interesting Idea... http://www.softopper.com/

Yup because you have a 92 you can get the ignition keyed to match the doors... 91+ is the Chrysler key design

I don't mind sending a couple bucks again so Keep up the Great Work...

Yup Totally... I had plans to do just that but With the promise of the Jeep pickup for 18 I will wait and see if its what I am hoping for and if not then back to cutting up a Nice MJ/XJ for a hybrid cab and a half MJ

I can see 55K if your paying someone to do all the work and truly did a restoration and restored to new all parts that are not available to purchase new but even the starting price is high for a stockish truck... I do like the idea of the second fuel tank I just question the reason they say its there, probably more like they used an XJ quarter panel to repair the box side and though hummm this V8 is going to need a lot of fuel to get you to the next gas station because if it were just for weight bias there are cheaper ways to accomplish that I think... Hell I probably got 30 in mine maybe more if I were to add all my shop time I always have mine for sale just not on EBay as I find it the worst place to sell things, but I do love Shopping there...

MJ's have a Brace attached to the top of the Floor pan's like this (borrowed from another post here on Comancheclub) XJ's are flat and most pans are crap anyways so your better off getting some good gauge Sheet metal and making the pan yourself...

I wish I could get away with such small drives I have 100TB worth of drives and Need more space (Personal Media Server arrays)... Every time I need a new drive I am grabbing 2TB @$120 each or 4TB @ $200 each depending on which Media server I am adding to...