WahooSteeler

Not factory MT's at least. Could be an aftermarket set based on it having a military wrap on the frame side mount. The other end of the second leaf under the main is not tapered which would usually indicate and add-a-leaf, but I have never seen an AAL with a military wrap. May be a bastard pack someone put together.

Is 2 wheeled transportation an option?

Since you have established communication with them, maybe give them some feedback on the float arm length compared to stock. The 18 & 23.5 gallon tanks are the same height but the 23.5gal is longer. The 16 gallon tank has different dimensions. Since a lot of us deal with erractic fuel gauges anyway, it doesn't have to be perfect LOL and they may not want to invest any more R&D in it if it is a functioning replacement, but worth sharing with them IMO. Even though I have a recently refurbed unit from TriStarr, I will be ordering one for long-term backup.

Hell Creek still sells 3" lift springs

https://www.facebook.com/groups/341484192538182/?fref=nf

88 and up TCU's are good to go. 87 TCU's apparently had poor shift points and are worth replacing with an 88+ TCU.

2001 XJ in Hopewell...........$1200 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1632592806885222/

In the group Jeep Comanche/Cherokee Buy Sell Trade https://www.facebook.com/groups/341484192538182/?fref=nf

Busted heater solution?

Might be headed to Morgantown to see my son and go to the WVU vs NC State Game.........I should know by early next week. You really want that socket back, don't you??

Yes, we do. I found your 15mm Kobalt socket that left with me all those years ago, so there's at least one good reason LOL. And you are quite perceptive, almost telepathic even LOL! A thought worth considering.

How long do you think you need something, worst case scenario?

Seems like a $500 XJ would be an option even if you had to do a Saturday's worth of work on it, at least you could do it all yourself since you know them inside and out and for next to nothing $$.

That sucks Jeff, sorry you are having to go through all of this.

This is potentially huge.

Well, it will be very interesting to follow this and see if they have the ohms right for Renix and HO models. Even if not, I would hope they would be willing to make the correction and/or offer both models if they have gone so far as to set up to make and sell these. I'm confident word would spread like wildfire and a substantial number of people would buy one simply to keep on the shelf until needed in the future. I would, and I already have 2 backups that would need reconditioning but at least I have them.

Stant lev-r-vent radiator caps 10334 ....... 18psi

Ahhh.........the truth comes out. Interesting about the Wrangler crowd. FWIW, the vendors no doubt paid a substantial fee to be on display there. While I understand it's the principle vs the $36 for you, still might be worth $12 for you to go back by yourself and visit the mfr's you are considering for your project. If you buy something, after they give you the final price ask them if they'd knock off another $12 for the principal of you having to pay to be a customer LOL.

It looks like a pretty large event. That takes a lot of people to organize, promote and run something like that, and that costs money. And the promoter is certainly not a non-profit company, they're their to make a buck too. I understand your frustration, but I've never seen any kind of event like that be it an RV show, boat show, off road show, SEMA....whatever, that doesn't charge an entry fee. If the organizers did not do a good job of advertising the gate fee or vendors area fee, shame on them. If you did not know or anticipate this before you showed up, well........what did you expect? I'd also ask, why do you say screw Rigid and the other vendors? They are not the ones charging the fee to get in to the vendor area, the event promoter is. You say you are upset because you are willing to spend over $2k for one of the mfr's products on display there but they are mostly online companies and you want to be able to see it, touch it, discuss it with a sale rep etc. Well sir, that will cost you $12 (or $36 in your case since your family was there with you) because the promoter spent money to bring these mfr's together so you could do just that. Seems like $12 is a small cost to pay to help you make a more informed and comfortable $2000+ decision. And as already pointed out, almost always the products for sale at events like this are on sale because they have a captured audience of their exact target market! The volume of sales makes up for the lesser margin. I know you know all this JD, and even if you were not ready to be a buyer today and take advantage of the "event sale price", I go back to $36 being a small expense for a much greater piece of mind when you plunk down your hard earned $$ on your dream Comanche.

90% of MJ owners would kill for their paint to look like what yours does as it sits now! Great find, watching your build with envy!

I am a fan of BG products MOA recommended to me by a european car shop @5yrs ago. My car was consuming oil but not smoking unless under WOP acceleration it would give a puff of black smoke. After about 3 oil changes (@12k miles) with MOA added every time, the oil consumption went down considerably and the dark smoke was less common under WOP. A light "tick" at idle also went away and never returned. I put a can in with every oil change on all 3 of my vehicles now.

Cleanest and easiest install IMO is to repurpose existing pressure bottle with $5 worth of parts. You don't have to relocate fuel pump ballast resistor or anything else on driver side fender. A couple of clamps and a nylon reducer and the pressure tank becomes the overflow bottle.

That's a slick set up. I also like the mod several have done with round fog lights behind the bumper like current Wranglers. Need to find a pic.....

Yup, had the same great experience with Tristarr! Highly recommend

Jeremy you can repurpose your expansion tank bottle to an overflow bottle and can keep it neat and clean and not have to fab a bracket etc. Got the idea from Rokinn when I converted to open about a month ago. He plugged the upper hose barb and put a hole in his Volvo cap, but I just left the upper hose barb uncovered to act as the vent and not have to drill a hole in the cap. "Full" level when cold you'll see in Rokinn's picture on the thread link, and "full hot" seems to be right at the upper hose barb so it's about perfect IMO. Picture of mine on here to show the conversion.....see posts by Rokinn and myself on the thread link on June 29-30 for specific detail.